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Author Topic:   Montauk - fuel line access hole

adaco posted 08-18-2002 08:03 PM ET (US)
I recently converted a standard Whaler Sport to a center console with Montauk console and seat. Can soneone describe the access to the tunnel for the fuel line from the Montauk underseat tanks: Is the opening moulded into the hull like the rear opening or is there a screw-on flange on top? Has anyone had experience opening up into the tunnel in this area? Any problems to watch for?
jimh posted 08-19-2002 01:16 AM ET (US)
Are you planning on boring a tunnel in the boat?
I would not expect to find a tunnel molded into the hull if it was not used in the original configuration in which the boat was built.
adaco posted 08-19-2002 12:13 PM ET (US)
Hi Jim: I may not have made myself clear (not unusual!) The tunnel I am referring to is the existing moulded-in tunnel or channel in a 17' Whaler that runs fore and aft under the floor at the centerline and through which run the steering cables, etc. The under-console opening to the tunnel for the steering cable, etc. as well as the opening in front of the splashwell are in place as on a standard Montauk. However, on the 17' Sport there is no opening to the tunnel at the spot where there is an opening on a standard Montauk to feed the fuel line from the underseat tanks. That is where I want to access the existing "tunnel" in order to feed the fuel line for my underseat tanks.
whalertim posted 08-19-2002 12:21 PM ET (US)
Hi ab,
I may be wrong, that has happen quite a few times. I dont think there is an existing "tunnel" on the 17 standard due to the console configuration as in the Montauk. Maybe some of the others can shed more light.
Tim
Hank posted 08-19-2002 01:00 PM ET (US)
adaco
A few years ago I saw a dealer installed modification on a Montauk with under-seat Pate fuel tank. The tank covered the normal large opening under the seat so access to the tunnel was gained by drilling a hole through the deck into the tunnel. The hole was only large enough to take the fuel line.
My recollection is that the mechanic stated that you have to be careful drilling the hole because it goes through an aluminum tube used to form the tunnel. They sealed the edges of the hole with epoxy, I believe.
Sounds like this is what you're planning to do.
Hank
ratherwhalering posted 08-19-2002 03:53 PM ET (US)
adaco:
I wrote an article in the reference section regarding this exact topic. I drilled an access hole into the bilge tube after my new pate tank covered up the old fuel line access hole (The old hole was oblong, with a plastic flange around the edge) I used a 1 and 1/4" circular drill bit, and a thru- hull fitting to achieve great results. You will have to drill through the gel coat, fiberglass, wood backing, foam, and aluminum bilge tube. It's really unnerving! Remember to measure at least twice, drill once.
ratherwhalering posted 08-19-2002 03:55 PM ET (US)
adaco:
I wrote an article in the reference section regarding this exact topic. I drilled an access hole into the bilge tube after my new pate tank covered up the old fuel line access hole (The old hole was oblong, with a plastic flange around the edge) I used a 1 and 1/4" circular drill bit, and a thru- hull fitting to achieve great results. You will have to drill through the gel coat, fiberglass, wood backing, foam, and aluminum bilge tube. It's really unnerving! Remember to measure at least twice, drill once.
63WHALER posted 08-19-2002 05:06 PM ET (US)
Just did this and followed the advise of ratherwhalering. This turned out great and looks excellent, also simple to do.
adaco posted 08-19-2002 05:54 PM ET (US)
ratherwhalering: Thanks for the valuable tips. And, do you have a reference for the article you wrote in the reference section on this topic?
ratherwhalering posted 08-19-2002 06:07 PM ET (US)
oh boy...this is the first time I am going to post a link...If it doesn't work, just go to the "whaler" section, and it is listed in the reference section.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/onDeckFuelTank.html
ratherwhalering posted 08-19-2002 06:08 PM ET (US)
yeeeeeeeee haaaaaaaaaaaaaaw!!
adaco posted 08-20-2002 12:08 PM ET (US)
Ratherwhalering: Got the article and will be following your advise. Regarding the thru-hull fitting, was it a bronze mushroom head, what is the inside diameter of the access hole and did you simply bed it to the floor with the 5200 or was it also screwed into place?
ratherwhalering posted 08-20-2002 01:12 PM ET (US)
It was a low profile, white, Perkos, plastic thru-hull. I believe the diameter of the hole was 1.25". The inside diameter of the thru hull is about .75". The outside diameter of the thru hull was 1.25". The diameter of the threads on the thru hull were roughly 1.35". The thru hull has about 1.5" of male thread, and then 1" of non-threaded tubing. I had to trim the thru hull, as it was too long for the hole, and would have protruded half way through the bilge tube. The thru hull was threaded into the hole, and sealed with 5200. The other thru hulls I have seen were bedded with epoxy, but I figured that the fit was so tight (hard as hell to thread in)that 5200 would do the job. Before the final tightening turns, I ran a bead around the edge, and it squished out.

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Author	Topic: Montauk - fuel line access hole
adaco	posted 08-18-2002 08:03 PM ET (US) I recently converted a standard Whaler Sport to a center console with Montauk console and seat. Can soneone describe the access to the tunnel for the fuel line from the Montauk underseat tanks: Is the opening moulded into the hull like the rear opening or is there a screw-on flange on top? Has anyone had experience opening up into the tunnel in this area? Any problems to watch for?
jimh	posted 08-19-2002 01:16 AM ET (US) Are you planning on boring a tunnel in the boat? I would not expect to find a tunnel molded into the hull if it was not used in the original configuration in which the boat was built.
adaco	posted 08-19-2002 12:13 PM ET (US) Hi Jim: I may not have made myself clear (not unusual!) The tunnel I am referring to is the existing moulded-in tunnel or channel in a 17' Whaler that runs fore and aft under the floor at the centerline and through which run the steering cables, etc. The under-console opening to the tunnel for the steering cable, etc. as well as the opening in front of the splashwell are in place as on a standard Montauk. However, on the 17' Sport there is no opening to the tunnel at the spot where there is an opening on a standard Montauk to feed the fuel line from the underseat tanks. That is where I want to access the existing "tunnel" in order to feed the fuel line for my underseat tanks.
whalertim	posted 08-19-2002 12:21 PM ET (US) Hi ab, I may be wrong, that has happen quite a few times. I dont think there is an existing "tunnel" on the 17 standard due to the console configuration as in the Montauk. Maybe some of the others can shed more light. Tim
Hank	posted 08-19-2002 01:00 PM ET (US) adaco A few years ago I saw a dealer installed modification on a Montauk with under-seat Pate fuel tank. The tank covered the normal large opening under the seat so access to the tunnel was gained by drilling a hole through the deck into the tunnel. The hole was only large enough to take the fuel line. My recollection is that the mechanic stated that you have to be careful drilling the hole because it goes through an aluminum tube used to form the tunnel. They sealed the edges of the hole with epoxy, I believe. Sounds like this is what you're planning to do. Hank
ratherwhalering	posted 08-19-2002 03:53 PM ET (US) adaco: I wrote an article in the reference section regarding this exact topic. I drilled an access hole into the bilge tube after my new pate tank covered up the old fuel line access hole (The old hole was oblong, with a plastic flange around the edge) I used a 1 and 1/4" circular drill bit, and a thru- hull fitting to achieve great results. You will have to drill through the gel coat, fiberglass, wood backing, foam, and aluminum bilge tube. It's really unnerving! Remember to measure at least twice, drill once.
ratherwhalering	posted 08-19-2002 03:55 PM ET (US) adaco: I wrote an article in the reference section regarding this exact topic. I drilled an access hole into the bilge tube after my new pate tank covered up the old fuel line access hole (The old hole was oblong, with a plastic flange around the edge) I used a 1 and 1/4" circular drill bit, and a thru- hull fitting to achieve great results. You will have to drill through the gel coat, fiberglass, wood backing, foam, and aluminum bilge tube. It's really unnerving! Remember to measure at least twice, drill once.
63WHALER	posted 08-19-2002 05:06 PM ET (US) Just did this and followed the advise of ratherwhalering. This turned out great and looks excellent, also simple to do.
adaco	posted 08-19-2002 05:54 PM ET (US) ratherwhalering: Thanks for the valuable tips. And, do you have a reference for the article you wrote in the reference section on this topic?
ratherwhalering	posted 08-19-2002 06:07 PM ET (US) oh boy...this is the first time I am going to post a link...If it doesn't work, just go to the "whaler" section, and it is listed in the reference section. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/onDeckFuelTank.html
ratherwhalering	posted 08-19-2002 06:08 PM ET (US) yeeeeeeeee haaaaaaaaaaaaaaw!!
adaco	posted 08-20-2002 12:08 PM ET (US) Ratherwhalering: Got the article and will be following your advise. Regarding the thru-hull fitting, was it a bronze mushroom head, what is the inside diameter of the access hole and did you simply bed it to the floor with the 5200 or was it also screwed into place?
ratherwhalering	posted 08-20-2002 01:12 PM ET (US) It was a low profile, white, Perkos, plastic thru-hull. I believe the diameter of the hole was 1.25". The inside diameter of the thru hull is about .75". The outside diameter of the thru hull was 1.25". The diameter of the threads on the thru hull were roughly 1.35". The thru hull has about 1.5" of male thread, and then 1" of non-threaded tubing. I had to trim the thru hull, as it was too long for the hole, and would have protruded half way through the bilge tube. The thru hull was threaded into the hole, and sealed with 5200. The other thru hulls I have seen were bedded with epoxy, but I figured that the fit was so tight (hard as hell to thread in)that 5200 would do the job. Before the final tightening turns, I ran a bead around the edge, and it squished out.