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Author Topic:   Tilt Tube Removal

bang4dabuck posted 04-01-2004 01:21 AM ET (US)
[On my c.1980 70-HP Mercury the] steering was stuck so I tried to nudge the steering shaft out. Along came the tilt tube--almost. I got about 3-inches of tilt tube and 6-inches of steering shaft to get out. Not sure what the hold up is but won't budge now.
Is the tilt tube supposed to come out?
Am I supposed to do anything with the adjusting nuts?
Are they for some reason holding things up?
Should I use force (3 lb. hammer and a piece of rebar)and try to nock shaft out?
Is there a good penetrating oil that would loosen things up a bit?
Thanks
Chuck Tribolet posted 04-01-2004 07:54 AM ET (US)
I wouldn't use a piece of rebar for sure. That's a machined
surface in there and you don't want to scratch it up. Maybe
a dowel.
Also, at least on Montauk with Evinrude 90, there was JUST
enough clearance to get it out before the hull got in the way.
Some have reporte having to lift the motor to get enough
clearance. I think I'd put the tilt tube back, maybe a U
shaped block of wood and a small hammer.
And have you now got a pivot on only one side? If so, be
careful.

Chuck
bang4dabuck posted 04-01-2004 09:31 PM ET (US)
Thats could be it. My boat is 20 miles away in Linthicum so I am trying to picture it. Are you saying if I remove the tilt tube the motor will fall ? that is pretty much the only tieing the motor to the boat ? I do have my tilt disengaged. If this is correct is probably pinching the tube if you know what I mean. I may need to get some body to help me support it to wobble it off or evenly distribute the weight and then another person to tap it out. Do you think this could be on the right track of what's going on ? Sh e needs to go to the shop this weekend too and I ain't driving down there as presently sitting.
thanks
jimh posted 04-02-2004 09:15 AM ET (US)
"Are they [the tilt tube] for some reason holding things up?
The tilt tube is probably jammed in place by the weight of the motor. The only thing holding the motor on the boat is the tilt tube. In partially removing it you have now jammed the motor's weight on the remaining side of the tilt tube. Relieve the weight of the motor from the tilt tube by placing wooden blocks under the motor skeg so that most of the weight bears on the skeg.
Do not remove the tilt tube until you have stabilized the motor and provided for some other way to support it once the tilt tube is gone.
You probably will need to purchase a new tilt tube as you may have bent or deformed the existing one, or it has been otherwise damage by the corrosion with the steering arm ram. At the least, you will probably need to refurbish the existing tilt tube if you plan to re-use it.
Chuck Tribolet posted 04-02-2004 09:52 AM ET (US)
The tilt tube is the pin in the hinge. Take the hinge pin out,
the hinge comes apart. You probably don't want that.
Rather than taking the tilt tube out, I'd put it back in,
get the steering rod out, clean up the inside of the tilt
tube (some use shotgun brushes, I used a 1/2" dowel with a 2"
piece of shop towel on the end.). Eyeball the inside of the
tilt tube. If it isn't deformed on the inside, it's probably
OK. Run the motor up and down a couple of times and make sure
nothing binds. Then you can get back to the original project
of replacing the steering cable.
BTW, on my Evinrude 90, the factory manual discusses the
left-right positioning of the tilt tube. You may want to
check on that for your Merc.

Chuck
LHG posted 04-02-2004 03:08 PM ET (US)
I have a lot of experience with Mercury tilt-tubes, as on both of my Whalers one had to be reversed for the hydraulic steering mounts. I also replaced a corroded one on my 1985 Merc 115, when I got rid of Teleflex's terrible twin cable steering setup.
On a 1980 model, with a frozen steering ram, I would do an overhaul. Mercury tilt tubes are surprisingly easy to replace once the steering ram is removed. I'm betting the interior is shot. A new one is only about $40, and now they are available is SS also, for about $70.
Your situation is not good, however. Since the tube is displaced about 3", I'm assuming you removed the big nuts holding it in place. This should not have been done, unless you are installing a new tilt tube.
The normal procedure for replacing (or reversing, for steering purposes) a Merc tilt tube is to first buy a NEW tube. Then, trim the engine vertical, and place a block of wood under the skeg, raising the trailer jack to just the point where some engine weight is taken off the tilt tube, but not enough to lift anything. Then, with all steering removed (or hack sawed off), the old tube is DRIVEN out with the NEW tube, and big nuts replaced, locking it in place. On the port side of the engine, I recommend a 1" Steersman grease nut as a replacement for the Mercury nut, also removing the Mercury o-ring in the tilt tube end. This procedure preserves all of the washers and other components that you can't see in the tilt tube/engine bracket assembly. Nothing is allowed to drop out of alignment.
But in your case, with the tube displaced 3", you have probably "dropped" some of the internal rings and washers. I think you have to take it to a dealer for repair now. Besides, the new tilt tube, I would get a new steering cable and grease zerk nut. Then your installation will be like new.
bang4dabuck posted 04-02-2004 07:59 PM ET (US)
This all began because my steering was stuck and it looked to be at the tilt tube. When trying to tap the the steering shaft thru the tube would move with it. I was not thinking of the tube supporting the engine. If I could somehow get the tube back in place any ideas on getting the steering shaft out senza the tube ? I thought if I could get it out I could just lube it up real good and put one of those zerk fittings on for future use. The theory is is that the steering problem is that it is locked up in the tube in the tube. My steering wheel moves maybe a 1/2 turn in both directions. I can see the cable trying to move right where those 2 nuts ARE. So what do you think ? This on a Katama so I don't seem to have any issues with haveing enough room for the shaft to come out. You guys are very helful.
thanks
jimh posted 04-02-2004 08:24 PM ET (US)
There is little doubt that the actuator arm of the steering mechanism has become corroded in place inside the tilt tube.
As LHG recommends, buy a new tilt tube and throw this corroded mess away.
bang4dabuck posted 04-04-2004 01:00 AM ET (US)
My friend lifted the motor up and I shoved the tube back in. Not a problem . If I had a diagram of the entire system I would have saved a lot of time. My problem was that the tilt tube was missing a nut on the one side so when I tried to punch the acuator tube thru, the whole assembly would move with it. I put a Steersman nut on there so that is holding the tube in place now. Now my problem is still getting the actuator thru the tube.I barely got it started. It doesn't want to move. I am having a helluva time. My steering wheel is moving now at least.
Chuck Tribolet posted 04-04-2004 08:50 AM ET (US)
Is this the new cable you are trying to put in? or the
the old one out?
If the new cable, I suspect you tweaked the tube. There's
a lot of leverage with the weight of the outboard behind it.
If the old cable, it could be the corrosion, it could be a
tweaked tube, or both.
If there was no nut holding tube, that may explain how water
got in to cause the original corrosion.

Chuck
LHG posted 04-04-2004 06:43 PM ET (US)
I still say you need a new tube and steering cable.
bang4dabuck posted 04-04-2004 07:37 PM ET (US)
Got the actuator out finally. Took about 45 minutes with a 4 lb hammer and a 1/2" x 12' bolt with some old rag in between. The tube doesnt look to bad to me but it at least needs a good cleaning. Scott at Whalertowne told me he uses a high speed drill which (I guess) he drills into a 1/2" or so wood dowel with sandpaper wrapped around to clean the tube. I think I am ok if tube and steering assembly are true, they look it. I don't know if this was worth it but I hope I at least learned something from this. Whether I'll ever need to use it is another story. It's not over yet though. Should the Steersman NUT go on the cable side or the actuator side ? When I tried to grease it from acuator side with actuator sticking out some, it would not take grease. There was no room for it to go. I'm thinking it goes on the cable side.
bang4dabuck posted 04-04-2004 07:40 PM ET (US)
Got the actuator out finally. Took about 45 minutes with a 4 lb hammer and a 1/2" x 12' bolt with some old rag in between. The tube doesnt look to bad to me but it at least needs a good cleaning. Scott at Whalertowne told me he uses a high speed drill which (I guess) he drills into a 1/2" or so wood dowel with sandpaper wrapped around to clean the tube. I think I am ok if tube and steering assembly are true, they look it. I don't know if this was worth it but I hope I at least learned something from this. Whether I'll ever need to use it is another story. It's not over yet though. Should the Steersman NUT go on the cable side or the actuator side ? When I tried to grease it from acuator side with actuator sticking out some, it would not take grease. There was no room for it to go. I'm thinking it goes on the cable side.
jimh posted 04-04-2004 07:45 PM ET (US)
In most set ups the cable steering enters the tilt tube on the starboard side. The actuator arm exits on the port side and connects to the drag link. The Steersman nut goes on the port side.
On Mercury engines remove the O-ring in the tilt tube so grease can flow from the Steersman nut fitting into the tilt tube.

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Author	Topic: Tilt Tube Removal
bang4dabuck	posted 04-01-2004 01:21 AM ET (US) [On my c.1980 70-HP Mercury the] steering was stuck so I tried to nudge the steering shaft out. Along came the tilt tube--almost. I got about 3-inches of tilt tube and 6-inches of steering shaft to get out. Not sure what the hold up is but won't budge now. Is the tilt tube supposed to come out? Am I supposed to do anything with the adjusting nuts? Are they for some reason holding things up? Should I use force (3 lb. hammer and a piece of rebar)and try to nock shaft out? Is there a good penetrating oil that would loosen things up a bit? Thanks
Chuck Tribolet	posted 04-01-2004 07:54 AM ET (US) I wouldn't use a piece of rebar for sure. That's a machined surface in there and you don't want to scratch it up. Maybe a dowel. Also, at least on Montauk with Evinrude 90, there was JUST enough clearance to get it out before the hull got in the way. Some have reporte having to lift the motor to get enough clearance. I think I'd put the tilt tube back, maybe a U shaped block of wood and a small hammer. And have you now got a pivot on only one side? If so, be careful. Chuck
bang4dabuck	posted 04-01-2004 09:31 PM ET (US) Thats could be it. My boat is 20 miles away in Linthicum so I am trying to picture it. Are you saying if I remove the tilt tube the motor will fall ? that is pretty much the only tieing the motor to the boat ? I do have my tilt disengaged. If this is correct is probably pinching the tube if you know what I mean. I may need to get some body to help me support it to wobble it off or evenly distribute the weight and then another person to tap it out. Do you think this could be on the right track of what's going on ? Sh e needs to go to the shop this weekend too and I ain't driving down there as presently sitting. thanks
jimh	posted 04-02-2004 09:15 AM ET (US) "Are they [the tilt tube] for some reason holding things up? The tilt tube is probably jammed in place by the weight of the motor. The only thing holding the motor on the boat is the tilt tube. In partially removing it you have now jammed the motor's weight on the remaining side of the tilt tube. Relieve the weight of the motor from the tilt tube by placing wooden blocks under the motor skeg so that most of the weight bears on the skeg. Do not remove the tilt tube until you have stabilized the motor and provided for some other way to support it once the tilt tube is gone. You probably will need to purchase a new tilt tube as you may have bent or deformed the existing one, or it has been otherwise damage by the corrosion with the steering arm ram. At the least, you will probably need to refurbish the existing tilt tube if you plan to re-use it.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 04-02-2004 09:52 AM ET (US) The tilt tube is the pin in the hinge. Take the hinge pin out, the hinge comes apart. You probably don't want that. Rather than taking the tilt tube out, I'd put it back in, get the steering rod out, clean up the inside of the tilt tube (some use shotgun brushes, I used a 1/2" dowel with a 2" piece of shop towel on the end.). Eyeball the inside of the tilt tube. If it isn't deformed on the inside, it's probably OK. Run the motor up and down a couple of times and make sure nothing binds. Then you can get back to the original project of replacing the steering cable. BTW, on my Evinrude 90, the factory manual discusses the left-right positioning of the tilt tube. You may want to check on that for your Merc. Chuck
LHG	posted 04-02-2004 03:08 PM ET (US) I have a lot of experience with Mercury tilt-tubes, as on both of my Whalers one had to be reversed for the hydraulic steering mounts. I also replaced a corroded one on my 1985 Merc 115, when I got rid of Teleflex's terrible twin cable steering setup. On a 1980 model, with a frozen steering ram, I would do an overhaul. Mercury tilt tubes are surprisingly easy to replace once the steering ram is removed. I'm betting the interior is shot. A new one is only about $40, and now they are available is SS also, for about $70. Your situation is not good, however. Since the tube is displaced about 3", I'm assuming you removed the big nuts holding it in place. This should not have been done, unless you are installing a new tilt tube. The normal procedure for replacing (or reversing, for steering purposes) a Merc tilt tube is to first buy a NEW tube. Then, trim the engine vertical, and place a block of wood under the skeg, raising the trailer jack to just the point where some engine weight is taken off the tilt tube, but not enough to lift anything. Then, with all steering removed (or hack sawed off), the old tube is DRIVEN out with the NEW tube, and big nuts replaced, locking it in place. On the port side of the engine, I recommend a 1" Steersman grease nut as a replacement for the Mercury nut, also removing the Mercury o-ring in the tilt tube end. This procedure preserves all of the washers and other components that you can't see in the tilt tube/engine bracket assembly. Nothing is allowed to drop out of alignment. But in your case, with the tube displaced 3", you have probably "dropped" some of the internal rings and washers. I think you have to take it to a dealer for repair now. Besides, the new tilt tube, I would get a new steering cable and grease zerk nut. Then your installation will be like new.
bang4dabuck	posted 04-02-2004 07:59 PM ET (US) This all began because my steering was stuck and it looked to be at the tilt tube. When trying to tap the the steering shaft thru the tube would move with it. I was not thinking of the tube supporting the engine. If I could somehow get the tube back in place any ideas on getting the steering shaft out senza the tube ? I thought if I could get it out I could just lube it up real good and put one of those zerk fittings on for future use. The theory is is that the steering problem is that it is locked up in the tube in the tube. My steering wheel moves maybe a 1/2 turn in both directions. I can see the cable trying to move right where those 2 nuts ARE. So what do you think ? This on a Katama so I don't seem to have any issues with haveing enough room for the shaft to come out. You guys are very helful. thanks
jimh	posted 04-02-2004 08:24 PM ET (US) There is little doubt that the actuator arm of the steering mechanism has become corroded in place inside the tilt tube. As LHG recommends, buy a new tilt tube and throw this corroded mess away.
bang4dabuck	posted 04-04-2004 01:00 AM ET (US) My friend lifted the motor up and I shoved the tube back in. Not a problem . If I had a diagram of the entire system I would have saved a lot of time. My problem was that the tilt tube was missing a nut on the one side so when I tried to punch the acuator tube thru, the whole assembly would move with it. I put a Steersman nut on there so that is holding the tube in place now. Now my problem is still getting the actuator thru the tube.I barely got it started. It doesn't want to move. I am having a helluva time. My steering wheel is moving now at least.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 04-04-2004 08:50 AM ET (US) Is this the new cable you are trying to put in? or the the old one out? If the new cable, I suspect you tweaked the tube. There's a lot of leverage with the weight of the outboard behind it. If the old cable, it could be the corrosion, it could be a tweaked tube, or both. If there was no nut holding tube, that may explain how water got in to cause the original corrosion. Chuck
LHG	posted 04-04-2004 06:43 PM ET (US) I still say you need a new tube and steering cable.
bang4dabuck	posted 04-04-2004 07:37 PM ET (US) Got the actuator out finally. Took about 45 minutes with a 4 lb hammer and a 1/2" x 12' bolt with some old rag in between. The tube doesnt look to bad to me but it at least needs a good cleaning. Scott at Whalertowne told me he uses a high speed drill which (I guess) he drills into a 1/2" or so wood dowel with sandpaper wrapped around to clean the tube. I think I am ok if tube and steering assembly are true, they look it. I don't know if this was worth it but I hope I at least learned something from this. Whether I'll ever need to use it is another story. It's not over yet though. Should the Steersman NUT go on the cable side or the actuator side ? When I tried to grease it from acuator side with actuator sticking out some, it would not take grease. There was no room for it to go. I'm thinking it goes on the cable side.
bang4dabuck	posted 04-04-2004 07:40 PM ET (US) Got the actuator out finally. Took about 45 minutes with a 4 lb hammer and a 1/2" x 12' bolt with some old rag in between. The tube doesnt look to bad to me but it at least needs a good cleaning. Scott at Whalertowne told me he uses a high speed drill which (I guess) he drills into a 1/2" or so wood dowel with sandpaper wrapped around to clean the tube. I think I am ok if tube and steering assembly are true, they look it. I don't know if this was worth it but I hope I at least learned something from this. Whether I'll ever need to use it is another story. It's not over yet though. Should the Steersman NUT go on the cable side or the actuator side ? When I tried to grease it from acuator side with actuator sticking out some, it would not take grease. There was no room for it to go. I'm thinking it goes on the cable side.
jimh	posted 04-04-2004 07:45 PM ET (US) In most set ups the cable steering enters the tilt tube on the starboard side. The actuator arm exits on the port side and connects to the drag link. The Steersman nut goes on the port side. On Mercury engines remove the O-ring in the tilt tube so grease can flow from the Steersman nut fitting into the tilt tube.