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Author Topic:   Tilt Tube Removal

acassidy posted 03-13-2005 05:51 PM ET (US)
My Steering is stuck. The tilt tube is rusting on my 1989 Evinrude 225 saltwater-use motor. My plan is to replace this tube with a stainless steel tube that I have found. I have tried to remove the steering three times now with penetrating oil and a propane torch but cannot get it to move. Plan B is to pull out the steering tube and then cut off the tilt tube (carefully) and then reinstall everything. My steering is hydraulic and the SS steering tube does not move or pivot up and down like it is supposed to. Has anyone ever removed a TILT TUBE from a mounted outboard and then replace it? Thanks Archie
where2 posted 03-13-2005 09:11 PM ET (US)
You will need to lift the engine to do it! I have done exactly what you are speaking of. My 1985 70-HP Johnson had a steel tilt tube that was rusting. My steering had frozen in it at one point. When I converted to hydraulic steering, I installed a replacement stainless tilt tube.
In order to remove the tilt tube, I had to lift the engine off the transom to get additional clearance. While I was at it, I disassembled the three parts of the engine bracket and painted the power trim/tilt mechanism again. Only added power trim/tilt 6 years earlier. Removing the side pieces from the power trim was the easiest way to get the tilt tube available for hammering.
If I understand your problem correctly, your "L" brackets that entrap the hydraulic steering actuator come off, but the stainless rod that went through the tilt tube is rusted solid.
First question: What's the trouble to carve the rusty tilt tube off the stainless mounting rod worth? You might want to price the piece that is rusted in the existing tilt tube before you spend oodles of hours carefully splitting them.
Second question: Did you buy replacements for the little plastic bushings that are between the tilt tube and the engine brackets? (If not, order those now. You will need them)
If penetrating oil and propane torch are unsuccessful, time to locate a bigger torch, and use a bigger hammer. It took quite a bit of hammering to get mine out after 18 years of salt water useage. Chip the excess obvious flaking rust out of the way, since that tube has to go through one of the sides of the mount to get out.
fairdeal2u posted 03-13-2005 10:11 PM ET (US)
I replaced my steering tube on a 70 hp johnson - 1987.
It was hell because it was corroded in the mounting brackets.
I used a rod that was the same diameter as the steering tube and a big hammer and penetrating oil. Knocked it out from the port side to the starboard side. I just put some 2 x 4 s to let the motor rest on to take some of the weight off of the motor as I knocked out the steering tube. Once it started to move an inch or so, I was able to tap in the new tube as the old tube came out. didn't need to take the motor off. I don't know how much harder it will be for you since your motor is much heavier than a 70. The hard part is finding a rod that matches the diameter of the steering tube so that you can punch out the steering tube.
fairdeal2u posted 03-13-2005 10:22 PM ET (US)
p.s...
I guess I am calling the tilt tube the steering tube. sorry about that.
It is the part that has the two threads on both sides of the tube..right? It holds the motor together...a link between the motor bracket and the motor. The 70 hp didn't have hydraulic, so I am not exactly sure what would be different.
I just used a hacksaw and cut the steering cable as close to the tube as possible to take out the end of the steering cable.
What are you calling the steering tube in your hydraulic setup? Don't you just have two lines attached to the hydraulic steering ?

fairdeal2u posted 03-13-2005 10:31 PM ET (US)
I just went check my hydraulic steering on my Yamaha.
same setup....
Are you saying that you can't tilt your motor at all?
the_FishMaster posted 03-14-2005 01:28 PM ET (US)
I removed the tilt tube this past winter. I was installing a new steering cable and steering rod. I didn't know it at the time, but it turned out to be easier to remove the tilt tube in order to insert the steering rod. Had I known that, I would have been prepared with a stainless steel tilt tube to replace the old one. What we did was balance the motor on the skeg, which was on top of a big block of wood. You need a few big guys to help you balance it. Remember, you're not lifting -- you're just balancing. My motor is 100hp. Yours is much bigger, but since you're just balancing, you should be OK still. So you don't really need to lift the motor off. A couple of big guys will not be able to lift your motor off. But they can easily balance it. Removing the tilt tube was relatively simple. It was all greased up and came out smoothly. I don't see how it can rust up requiring you to add heat or to pound it out. If it was that bad, then how can you tilt the motor up and down? It think that would be impossible. What you can do is rust the inside so that you can't remove the steering rod. But that would not prevent you from removing the tilt tube.
Good luck!
Steve
acassidy posted 03-14-2005 02:31 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all of the help. Let me clarify: the solid stainless L shaped arm (what I called to steering tube by mistake in first post)is stuck in the tilt tube. It is blocked on each end and is what the steering ram is attached to. The tilt tube has a little rust on it but it all moves freely with the motor tilting up and down. That rod is just stuck in the tube (will not move up or down). I really would like to remove it with out taking the motor off. I wonder if I could use the new tilt tube to push the old one out? Thanks Archie
fairdeal2u posted 03-14-2005 02:51 PM ET (US)
Ok..
I think this is what you can do. Replace both the tilt tube and the bar, (that you call the steering tube). Take off your l hydraulic part. Balance the motor. and knock out the tilt tube with steering tube that is stuck in it. Be sure to have
your new tilt tube ready to slide in as you tap out the old tilt tube.
Once you have the old tilt tube with the stuck steering rod,
you might be able to salvage the steering rod. At least it will easier for you to work on. But why bother, just get a new one for all of the effort that
you are going through...why put a rusted rod into a new stainless tilt tube.
Why do you have to change it anyway, as long as the motor tilts thats all that that part does. Your hydraulic moves on the other stainless bar with the hydraulic hoses and ram.
does this make sense?
the_FishMaster posted 03-14-2005 03:05 PM ET (US)
If you only want to remove the steering rod from the tilt tube (without removing the tilt tube), you can either poud the steering rod out from the port side out through the starboard side. If the rust is simply too great to do this, then you should replace the entire steering rod / cable assembly (because you may never be able to remove the steering rod out through the starboard side). If that is the case, then you can cut the steering cable. This should enable you to remove the steering rod through the port side very easily. This is what I did. It also depends on the type of steering that you currently have. If you can take pictures, it may be easier for us to know what kind of system you have and whether our suggestions will work for you.
Steve
acassidy posted 03-14-2005 03:42 PM ET (US)
I have hydraulic steering and the steering L shaped rod shows no sign of rust at all and I have not seen a replacement part. It is the old Seastar kind. It is just stuck in the tilt tube which shows exterior rust. The rod is supposed to pivot up and down with the motor’s tilt and right now puts the hydraulics in front of the tilt tube in a bind when I tilt the motor all the way up because it will not turning in the tilt tube. Does the tilt tube have to be hammered out or will it come out with a little twisting and pulling. Thanks Archie
fairdeal2u posted 03-14-2005 03:54 PM ET (US)
ok now that you have explained the exact problem.
Its easiest to pound out the tilt tube. But again, you need to have your replacement stainless steel tilt tube ready to take the place of the old one.
The amount that you will have to pound will depend on how badly corroded it is. Again, find a rod that matches the diameter of the tube to pound it with.
My tilt tube was really stuck but once I got it to move about an inch, the rest of it slid out easily. Most of the tube is exposed anyway. You also have a bigger motor which will make it more difficult to balance with the wood on the skeg.
jimh posted 03-15-2005 08:32 AM ET (US)
Considering the weight and cost of a 225-HP V-6 motor, you may want to attach an overhead support to it while you attempt to remove the tilt tube. A 450-pound motor is probably too much to control if it starts to fall over.
As mentioned, you will have to drive the old tilt tube out of the mounting brackets. Once you break it loose, you may be able to use the replacement tilt tube to drive the original out of position. Be careful not to damage the threads on the end.
acassidy posted 03-15-2005 01:49 PM ET (US)
Jim I think that you are right, I will need to support the motor some way just in case the motor loses its balance and tries to fall. Thanks for all of the help and thanks for the encouragement to do this. Archie
fairdeal2u posted 03-15-2005 11:21 PM ET (US)
The tilt tube has to be completely off in order for your motor to fall off. Take a look. It has to clear both port and starboard joints. So you can knock the tube off the port joint and by the time you get it over to the starboard it should move freely. At this point, use the new tilt tube to replace the last couple of inches of the starboad joint. The new tilt tube will now secure the motor on the port side as it moves into the starboard joint.

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Author	Topic: Tilt Tube Removal
acassidy	posted 03-13-2005 05:51 PM ET (US) My Steering is stuck. The tilt tube is rusting on my 1989 Evinrude 225 saltwater-use motor. My plan is to replace this tube with a stainless steel tube that I have found. I have tried to remove the steering three times now with penetrating oil and a propane torch but cannot get it to move. Plan B is to pull out the steering tube and then cut off the tilt tube (carefully) and then reinstall everything. My steering is hydraulic and the SS steering tube does not move or pivot up and down like it is supposed to. Has anyone ever removed a TILT TUBE from a mounted outboard and then replace it? Thanks Archie
where2	posted 03-13-2005 09:11 PM ET (US) You will need to lift the engine to do it! I have done exactly what you are speaking of. My 1985 70-HP Johnson had a steel tilt tube that was rusting. My steering had frozen in it at one point. When I converted to hydraulic steering, I installed a replacement stainless tilt tube. In order to remove the tilt tube, I had to lift the engine off the transom to get additional clearance. While I was at it, I disassembled the three parts of the engine bracket and painted the power trim/tilt mechanism again. Only added power trim/tilt 6 years earlier. Removing the side pieces from the power trim was the easiest way to get the tilt tube available for hammering. If I understand your problem correctly, your "L" brackets that entrap the hydraulic steering actuator come off, but the stainless rod that went through the tilt tube is rusted solid. First question: What's the trouble to carve the rusty tilt tube off the stainless mounting rod worth? You might want to price the piece that is rusted in the existing tilt tube before you spend oodles of hours carefully splitting them. Second question: Did you buy replacements for the little plastic bushings that are between the tilt tube and the engine brackets? (If not, order those now. You will need them) If penetrating oil and propane torch are unsuccessful, time to locate a bigger torch, and use a bigger hammer. It took quite a bit of hammering to get mine out after 18 years of salt water useage. Chip the excess obvious flaking rust out of the way, since that tube has to go through one of the sides of the mount to get out.
fairdeal2u	posted 03-13-2005 10:11 PM ET (US) I replaced my steering tube on a 70 hp johnson - 1987. It was hell because it was corroded in the mounting brackets. I used a rod that was the same diameter as the steering tube and a big hammer and penetrating oil. Knocked it out from the port side to the starboard side. I just put some 2 x 4 s to let the motor rest on to take some of the weight off of the motor as I knocked out the steering tube. Once it started to move an inch or so, I was able to tap in the new tube as the old tube came out. didn't need to take the motor off. I don't know how much harder it will be for you since your motor is much heavier than a 70. The hard part is finding a rod that matches the diameter of the steering tube so that you can punch out the steering tube.
fairdeal2u	posted 03-13-2005 10:22 PM ET (US) p.s... I guess I am calling the tilt tube the steering tube. sorry about that. It is the part that has the two threads on both sides of the tube..right? It holds the motor together...a link between the motor bracket and the motor. The 70 hp didn't have hydraulic, so I am not exactly sure what would be different. I just used a hacksaw and cut the steering cable as close to the tube as possible to take out the end of the steering cable. What are you calling the steering tube in your hydraulic setup? Don't you just have two lines attached to the hydraulic steering ?
fairdeal2u	posted 03-13-2005 10:31 PM ET (US) I just went check my hydraulic steering on my Yamaha. same setup.... Are you saying that you can't tilt your motor at all?
the_FishMaster	posted 03-14-2005 01:28 PM ET (US) I removed the tilt tube this past winter. I was installing a new steering cable and steering rod. I didn't know it at the time, but it turned out to be easier to remove the tilt tube in order to insert the steering rod. Had I known that, I would have been prepared with a stainless steel tilt tube to replace the old one. What we did was balance the motor on the skeg, which was on top of a big block of wood. You need a few big guys to help you balance it. Remember, you're not lifting -- you're just balancing. My motor is 100hp. Yours is much bigger, but since you're just balancing, you should be OK still. So you don't really need to lift the motor off. A couple of big guys will not be able to lift your motor off. But they can easily balance it. Removing the tilt tube was relatively simple. It was all greased up and came out smoothly. I don't see how it can rust up requiring you to add heat or to pound it out. If it was that bad, then how can you tilt the motor up and down? It think that would be impossible. What you can do is rust the inside so that you can't remove the steering rod. But that would not prevent you from removing the tilt tube. Good luck! Steve
acassidy	posted 03-14-2005 02:31 PM ET (US) Thanks for all of the help. Let me clarify: the solid stainless L shaped arm (what I called to steering tube by mistake in first post)is stuck in the tilt tube. It is blocked on each end and is what the steering ram is attached to. The tilt tube has a little rust on it but it all moves freely with the motor tilting up and down. That rod is just stuck in the tube (will not move up or down). I really would like to remove it with out taking the motor off. I wonder if I could use the new tilt tube to push the old one out? Thanks Archie
fairdeal2u	posted 03-14-2005 02:51 PM ET (US) Ok.. I think this is what you can do. Replace both the tilt tube and the bar, (that you call the steering tube). Take off your l hydraulic part. Balance the motor. and knock out the tilt tube with steering tube that is stuck in it. Be sure to have your new tilt tube ready to slide in as you tap out the old tilt tube. Once you have the old tilt tube with the stuck steering rod, you might be able to salvage the steering rod. At least it will easier for you to work on. But why bother, just get a new one for all of the effort that you are going through...why put a rusted rod into a new stainless tilt tube. Why do you have to change it anyway, as long as the motor tilts thats all that that part does. Your hydraulic moves on the other stainless bar with the hydraulic hoses and ram. does this make sense?
the_FishMaster	posted 03-14-2005 03:05 PM ET (US) If you only want to remove the steering rod from the tilt tube (without removing the tilt tube), you can either poud the steering rod out from the port side out through the starboard side. If the rust is simply too great to do this, then you should replace the entire steering rod / cable assembly (because you may never be able to remove the steering rod out through the starboard side). If that is the case, then you can cut the steering cable. This should enable you to remove the steering rod through the port side very easily. This is what I did. It also depends on the type of steering that you currently have. If you can take pictures, it may be easier for us to know what kind of system you have and whether our suggestions will work for you. Steve
acassidy	posted 03-14-2005 03:42 PM ET (US) I have hydraulic steering and the steering L shaped rod shows no sign of rust at all and I have not seen a replacement part. It is the old Seastar kind. It is just stuck in the tilt tube which shows exterior rust. The rod is supposed to pivot up and down with the motor’s tilt and right now puts the hydraulics in front of the tilt tube in a bind when I tilt the motor all the way up because it will not turning in the tilt tube. Does the tilt tube have to be hammered out or will it come out with a little twisting and pulling. Thanks Archie
fairdeal2u	posted 03-14-2005 03:54 PM ET (US) ok now that you have explained the exact problem. Its easiest to pound out the tilt tube. But again, you need to have your replacement stainless steel tilt tube ready to take the place of the old one. The amount that you will have to pound will depend on how badly corroded it is. Again, find a rod that matches the diameter of the tube to pound it with. My tilt tube was really stuck but once I got it to move about an inch, the rest of it slid out easily. Most of the tube is exposed anyway. You also have a bigger motor which will make it more difficult to balance with the wood on the skeg.
jimh	posted 03-15-2005 08:32 AM ET (US) Considering the weight and cost of a 225-HP V-6 motor, you may want to attach an overhead support to it while you attempt to remove the tilt tube. A 450-pound motor is probably too much to control if it starts to fall over. As mentioned, you will have to drive the old tilt tube out of the mounting brackets. Once you break it loose, you may be able to use the replacement tilt tube to drive the original out of position. Be careful not to damage the threads on the end.
acassidy	posted 03-15-2005 01:49 PM ET (US) Jim I think that you are right, I will need to support the motor some way just in case the motor loses its balance and tries to fall. Thanks for all of the help and thanks for the encouragement to do this. Archie
fairdeal2u	posted 03-15-2005 11:21 PM ET (US) The tilt tube has to be completely off in order for your motor to fall off. Take a look. It has to clear both port and starboard joints. So you can knock the tube off the port joint and by the time you get it over to the starboard it should move freely. At this point, use the new tilt tube to replace the last couple of inches of the starboad joint. The new tilt tube will now secure the motor on the port side as it moves into the starboard joint.