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Author Topic:   Cost for replacing Thru-Hull

Outrage18 posted 07-21-2005 09:53 AM ET (US)
Got a quote today from Nauset Marine. (Whaler Dealer on Cape Cod)
"We only do these at our service shop in Orleans. Estimated labor and parts 250-300.00, depending on the difficulty of getting the old tube out."
Does this sound right?
-PL

JaySul posted 07-21-2005 10:40 AM ET (US)
Having just replaced a through hull drain tube yesterday I was shocked at the price you were quoted. It took all of about forty-five minutes to remove the old one, cut the new one to size, seal it in place and tap a flange on one end. The price of the actual tube was around $6.00.
Jay
15ftlover posted 07-21-2005 02:02 PM ET (US)
I was quoted $60 per tube from Whaler dealer in SC
Hen
Plotman posted 07-21-2005 04:24 PM ET (US)
Absoluetely frigging insane.

$25 from Mcmaster Carr will get you all the tubing you need to do an old 22 with 8 drain tubes and a packet of 100 O-rings. Tools required are a conduit cutter, a couple of ball peen hammers and a propane plumbers torch. Add a tube of 5200, and you are done.
You can get any brass drain tube out of a whaler in 60 seconds flat with a hammer, a screwdriver and a pair of pliers.
Outrage18 posted 07-21-2005 04:58 PM ET (US)
Yeah I knew that was insane....Cape Cod Summer Prices.
I will try to do it myself. Does anyone have a pictorial on how this is done? I understand taking the ole on eout and placing hte new one in with 4200/5200 but I dont know the technique using the hammer to make in fluch on the bottom on the hull..
Can anyone explain this procedure/technique?
Thanks!
-Paul
John Tyler posted 07-21-2005 05:48 PM ET (US)
I was going to do that to my boat but decided against it at this point. What I learned along the way is that for about $20 you can buy a special tool at West Marine that aloows you to get through fittings out. it is a special type of wrench. Through hull fittings cost about 6 to 10 dollars. If you are handy???? you could savew yourself so dough.
I was considereing installing the new one with 3M 5200 fast cure around the leading edge of the fitting to ensure a water tight fit.
Rob Cote posted 07-22-2005 06:30 AM ET (US)
Guys, I replaced all the thru-hulls on my 22 Revenge WT last year. Using advice I read from this forum, it was pretty straight forward.
I used the rubber O-rings as well as 3M-4200 to seal the tubes. I decided against the 5200 because I thought it would be too difficult to get the tubes out later should I have the need to do the job again.
Any advice for using 5200 vs 4200, before these guys start their project?
Chesapeake posted 07-22-2005 08:15 AM ET (US)
This came from Sue at Twin Cities when I ordered my drain tubes.
• You must install the pre-flared end to the outside of the boat due to not having enough room to fit the pre-flared end starting from the inside.
• You will need to have someone hold down the tube on the inside of the boat while you “finish flaring over the bottom edge of the tube on the outside of the transom. Having someone hold the inside will keep the tube steady until you get if flared.
• You “should need” the 1” flaring tool. This will allow you to flare the end over on the “inside of the boat” due to not having enough room to swing a hammer or otherwise.
• Again, you will need to flare the inside of the tube as much as possible and then finish with a ball peen hammer.

MyOutrage posted 07-22-2005 08:25 AM ET (US)
Check out this thread for a rather lengthy confersation on this topic
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005685.html
splynch posted 07-23-2005 12:02 AM ET (US)
I did this on my 18 just under a month ago. First, it is not difficult, and cost me less than 25 dollars to do, like everyone else, I agree that price is ridiculous. Secondly, I would advise not to use 5200. When those new tubes corrode, which they always do, 5200 will make it much more difficult to replace them than it has to be. I did not use a hammer, but instead used a makeshift flaring tool. Using a 8 inch machine bolt with a nut that had an angled / curved side, and some washers, I just slid it through the tube, and then cranked down on the bolt. It worked better than anything I have tried in the past. If that makes no sense, there was some discussion about that in this forum, with probably a much better explanation. Good luck
Outrage18 posted 07-25-2005 09:55 AM ET (US)
Splynch-
I like your method.
Can you describe in more detail what type of nut you used?
How was it curved?
Can you find one on line and send me a link?
-Paul
JOHN W MAYO posted 07-25-2005 10:29 AM ET (US)
splynch,
I like your idea of the bolt and taypered type nut, I would think it should work just like a flaring tool. I also am interested in what type you used.
This sounds like it would be very similar to a "lug nut" on you truck.
Do you remember what size and type you used?
kamie posted 07-25-2005 08:31 PM ET (US)
PL,
I would call that highway robbery. I did 2 of mine and have 2 more to do. I did break down and get both flaring tools because basically the hammer thing didn't work for me. I also skipped on the O rings in favor of a ton of boatlife caulk. If your doing the forward locker on an 18 with a flaring tool, go to the local hardware store and get a threaded rod. The bolt that came with the flaring tool I got was too short for the anchor locker.
It took me 30 minutes each and the hardest part for me was getting the tube centered so the flares were even on both sides.
Plotman posted 07-25-2005 09:14 PM ET (US)
Kamie-
I'm curious How you got the flaring tube to work on the tube for the anchor locker given how it is angled so as it comes out of the hull? Did you take any pictures?
kneucker posted 07-26-2005 11:20 AM ET (US)
I did all mine on my 22 Revenge. The forward one is the most difficult beacuse of the angle Plotman describes. I used a threaded rod along with the flairing tool. Bend the threaded rod slightly so that both the inside and outsinde flares are parallel to their respective boat surface. It takes a little work to get the all thread bent to the right angle but I was able to get a nice tight fit this way.
kamie posted 07-26-2005 06:04 PM ET (US)
I decided to ignore the angle and things worked out OK. I did bed mine is generous amounts of boatlife caulk. For both the anchor locker and the bilge I started the flare on one end of the tube, then smeared boatlife caulk inside filling up any voids in the foam. Pushed the tube thru and ran a bead of caulk around the inside and the outside. Hooked up the flaring tool and cranked away. Once it seemed tight, I cleanedup with acetone a bit so I could see and then cranked down a couple more times to make sure it really flared out against the hull. I will do the splashwell drains the same way once I pull the boat.
lurkynot posted 07-26-2005 06:54 PM ET (US)
Just curious how often is it recommended to replace these thru-hull fitting and scupper drains? I have an 01' 18 Dauntless, Thanks
Chesapeake posted 07-27-2005 12:32 PM ET (US)
Had all the tubes replaced on my Outrage 19. Labor was $155.00 plus tax for 2.5 hours. Gotta rely on help sometimes. This was one of them.

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Author	Topic: Cost for replacing Thru-Hull
Outrage18	posted 07-21-2005 09:53 AM ET (US) Got a quote today from Nauset Marine. (Whaler Dealer on Cape Cod) "We only do these at our service shop in Orleans. Estimated labor and parts 250-300.00, depending on the difficulty of getting the old tube out." Does this sound right? -PL
JaySul	posted 07-21-2005 10:40 AM ET (US) Having just replaced a through hull drain tube yesterday I was shocked at the price you were quoted. It took all of about forty-five minutes to remove the old one, cut the new one to size, seal it in place and tap a flange on one end. The price of the actual tube was around $6.00. Jay
15ftlover	posted 07-21-2005 02:02 PM ET (US) I was quoted $60 per tube from Whaler dealer in SC Hen
Plotman	posted 07-21-2005 04:24 PM ET (US) Absoluetely frigging insane. $25 from Mcmaster Carr will get you all the tubing you need to do an old 22 with 8 drain tubes and a packet of 100 O-rings. Tools required are a conduit cutter, a couple of ball peen hammers and a propane plumbers torch. Add a tube of 5200, and you are done. You can get any brass drain tube out of a whaler in 60 seconds flat with a hammer, a screwdriver and a pair of pliers.
Outrage18	posted 07-21-2005 04:58 PM ET (US) Yeah I knew that was insane....Cape Cod Summer Prices. I will try to do it myself. Does anyone have a pictorial on how this is done? I understand taking the ole on eout and placing hte new one in with 4200/5200 but I dont know the technique using the hammer to make in fluch on the bottom on the hull.. Can anyone explain this procedure/technique? Thanks! -Paul
John Tyler	posted 07-21-2005 05:48 PM ET (US) I was going to do that to my boat but decided against it at this point. What I learned along the way is that for about $20 you can buy a special tool at West Marine that aloows you to get through fittings out. it is a special type of wrench. Through hull fittings cost about 6 to 10 dollars. If you are handy???? you could savew yourself so dough. I was considereing installing the new one with 3M 5200 fast cure around the leading edge of the fitting to ensure a water tight fit.
Rob Cote	posted 07-22-2005 06:30 AM ET (US) Guys, I replaced all the thru-hulls on my 22 Revenge WT last year. Using advice I read from this forum, it was pretty straight forward. I used the rubber O-rings as well as 3M-4200 to seal the tubes. I decided against the 5200 because I thought it would be too difficult to get the tubes out later should I have the need to do the job again. Any advice for using 5200 vs 4200, before these guys start their project?
Chesapeake	posted 07-22-2005 08:15 AM ET (US) This came from Sue at Twin Cities when I ordered my drain tubes. • You must install the pre-flared end to the outside of the boat due to not having enough room to fit the pre-flared end starting from the inside. • You will need to have someone hold down the tube on the inside of the boat while you “finish flaring over the bottom edge of the tube on the outside of the transom. Having someone hold the inside will keep the tube steady until you get if flared. • You “should need” the 1” flaring tool. This will allow you to flare the end over on the “inside of the boat” due to not having enough room to swing a hammer or otherwise. • Again, you will need to flare the inside of the tube as much as possible and then finish with a ball peen hammer.
MyOutrage	posted 07-22-2005 08:25 AM ET (US) Check out this thread for a rather lengthy confersation on this topic http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005685.html
splynch	posted 07-23-2005 12:02 AM ET (US) I did this on my 18 just under a month ago. First, it is not difficult, and cost me less than 25 dollars to do, like everyone else, I agree that price is ridiculous. Secondly, I would advise not to use 5200. When those new tubes corrode, which they always do, 5200 will make it much more difficult to replace them than it has to be. I did not use a hammer, but instead used a makeshift flaring tool. Using a 8 inch machine bolt with a nut that had an angled / curved side, and some washers, I just slid it through the tube, and then cranked down on the bolt. It worked better than anything I have tried in the past. If that makes no sense, there was some discussion about that in this forum, with probably a much better explanation. Good luck
Outrage18	posted 07-25-2005 09:55 AM ET (US) Splynch- I like your method. Can you describe in more detail what type of nut you used? How was it curved? Can you find one on line and send me a link? -Paul
JOHN W MAYO	posted 07-25-2005 10:29 AM ET (US) splynch, I like your idea of the bolt and taypered type nut, I would think it should work just like a flaring tool. I also am interested in what type you used. This sounds like it would be very similar to a "lug nut" on you truck. Do you remember what size and type you used?
kamie	posted 07-25-2005 08:31 PM ET (US) PL, I would call that highway robbery. I did 2 of mine and have 2 more to do. I did break down and get both flaring tools because basically the hammer thing didn't work for me. I also skipped on the O rings in favor of a ton of boatlife caulk. If your doing the forward locker on an 18 with a flaring tool, go to the local hardware store and get a threaded rod. The bolt that came with the flaring tool I got was too short for the anchor locker. It took me 30 minutes each and the hardest part for me was getting the tube centered so the flares were even on both sides.
Plotman	posted 07-25-2005 09:14 PM ET (US) Kamie- I'm curious How you got the flaring tube to work on the tube for the anchor locker given how it is angled so as it comes out of the hull? Did you take any pictures?
kneucker	posted 07-26-2005 11:20 AM ET (US) I did all mine on my 22 Revenge. The forward one is the most difficult beacuse of the angle Plotman describes. I used a threaded rod along with the flairing tool. Bend the threaded rod slightly so that both the inside and outsinde flares are parallel to their respective boat surface. It takes a little work to get the all thread bent to the right angle but I was able to get a nice tight fit this way.
kamie	posted 07-26-2005 06:04 PM ET (US) I decided to ignore the angle and things worked out OK. I did bed mine is generous amounts of boatlife caulk. For both the anchor locker and the bilge I started the flare on one end of the tube, then smeared boatlife caulk inside filling up any voids in the foam. Pushed the tube thru and ran a bead of caulk around the inside and the outside. Hooked up the flaring tool and cranked away. Once it seemed tight, I cleanedup with acetone a bit so I could see and then cranked down a couple more times to make sure it really flared out against the hull. I will do the splashwell drains the same way once I pull the boat.
lurkynot	posted 07-26-2005 06:54 PM ET (US) Just curious how often is it recommended to replace these thru-hull fitting and scupper drains? I have an 01' 18 Dauntless, Thanks
Chesapeake	posted 07-27-2005 12:32 PM ET (US) Had all the tubes replaced on my Outrage 19. Labor was $155.00 plus tax for 2.5 hours. Gotta rely on help sometimes. This was one of them.