Advice on Installing Trailer Guide Posts - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Advice on Installing Trailer Guide Posts

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Advice on Installing Trailer Guide Posts

minitauk85 posted 01-07-2006 08:38 AM ET (US)
I am going to install 40-inch-high guide posts to my Whaler trailer and was wondering if anyone had advice as to the proper location and proper installation. How far should the PVC sleeves be from the rubrail (I am guessing about an inch leeway). Any suggestions or hints on attaching to trailer, the posts came with very brief directions, and it seems like a simple installation but I figured I'd ask. -k
kingfish posted 01-07-2006 09:02 AM ET (US)
I placed mine about 1" from the rubrail on both sides; the reasoning I used was that since the posts are flexible, once the boat is up against them as you are placing the boat on the trailer for retrieval, you can no longer tell exactly where the boat is laterally in relation to the trailer below it. My Outrage 22 has a very narrow "window" of lateral placement due to bunks on the trailer and their interaction with the outboard sponsons of my hull; 2" one way or the other from centered and I have to re-load. The 1" gap provides a visual that helps my helper (if I'm lucky enough to have one) keep the boat in position as I pull it and the trailer out of the deepest water of the ramp, until the boat is seated on the bunks as it needs to be.
Are your new posts the type that have a bent, squared galvanized tube that attaches to your trailer frame with a vertical leg that 2" PVC pipes slip over for the guide posts, and that also have a horizontal leg that estends under the trailer frame towards the post on the other side? If so, give strong thought to purchasing some additional galvanized or at least PVC tubing of the correct size to slip the two horizontal extensions into under your trailer frame, so they sort of become one great big "U". I (and other before me) have found this to be a big help in stabilizing the guide posts bothe from twisting and from leaning in or out.
I place my guide posts as far aft on the trailer as the framing allows me to do, taking into account the necessary space for the connector tube I just described.
Finally, if you really want to trick your guide posts out (and want or need the additional safety), install Pipe-Lights on your guide posts - see the link below:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/003915.html
John
minitauk85 posted 01-07-2006 09:33 AM ET (US)
Kingfish- That's exactly why I posted this! That's a great idea reinforcing the extensions underneath - Great idea! The guide posts are exactly as you describe, and I had thought of maybe drilling an extra hole at the end of the horizontal member and bolting it to the frame in a diagonal, however your idea sounds easier and more effective. I was afraid that drilling a hole in the metal might provide an area for rust/corrosion to start. Did you attach the center member (PVC or aluminum) with bolts or does it simply stay put by being the correct length? Thanks for the input-k
kingfish posted 01-07-2006 09:43 AM ET (US)
k-
I used PVC cut to the correct length and just let it move around as it wishes (not much room to move much, maybe an inch or two endo). Russ Gilson (Eagleman) first brought this idea to my attention, and he used galvanized tubing and I think he drilled and bolted his. Larry Goltz used PVC and as I was having some difficulty finding the correct galvanized, the idea of PVC bailed me out. I don't know if Larry bolted his or not. Kind of elective, I think...
Keep us posted-
John
zotcha posted 01-07-2006 10:34 AM ET (US)
Minitauk, though my trailer has the guide-ons I have never used them while launching or retrieving, and I always have an 8 to 9 knot current running (unless its slack high or low). This KILLS me in my Seacraft, but the 15 self-centers every time on the bunks because they are located inside the sponsons. I believe 42" apart. Point somewhere center with the bow and by the time I near the bow stop, I am centered. Guide-ons only seem to provide mounting for lights, and for striking the garage door openings, after a fun day on the water!
Though not a New Years Resolution, I put down my Michelob Ultra at midnight, and haven't have one in seven days as of midnight tonight! After 36 years of "drinking for effect", I never thought this would be so easy and Boy, how productive one can be! Happy New Year! zotcha.
derf posted 01-07-2006 02:03 PM ET (US)
PVC is cheap and can be bent with a $10 Harbor Freight heat gun. Just fill it with sand and don't get the outside too hot in one small area.
Galvanized water pipe or conduit can be used for the 90 degree part that bolts to the trailer and PVC used for the uprights. Or, you can buy PVC 90s.
jimh posted 01-07-2006 03:25 PM ET (US)
You will find loading the boat on the trailer will be greatly assisted by the guide posts. Place them as far aft on the trailer as possible. They will help the boat to stay centered on the trailer while the stern is still afloat.
With the boat properly centered on the trailer, my guide posts are just touching the rub rails.
In a couple of awkward ramp situations (where the dock at the ramp was very short and there were strong winds), the trailer had to be backed in far beyond the end of the dock. In those situations, if you don't drive the boat onto the trailer, the posts can get in the way of maneuvering the boat unto the trailer. I have had to use the guide posts as a turning post for the boat and warp the boat onto the trailer. This has resulted in some deformation of the guide post position. However, you can usually just give them a heave and bend them back into position. I'd rather have the guide posts give a little than be set so firmly they are like hitting a sign post.
If you have a trailer with 5-inch cross-section frames, you will probably have to get special u-bolts to attach the guides. The manufacturer of the guide posts may offer to exchange the stock hardware for a set of extra-long U-bolts. I had this problem with my E-Z-Loader trailer which has very tall steel frame rails.
LHG posted 01-07-2006 03:45 PM ET (US)
I recommend you get the 60-inch tall guide-on's by Shipshape. They work well. As Kingfish has indicated, buy a piece of same diameter PVC as the verticals, cut it to within 1/4-inch of the inside dimension between trailer frame, and slide the the galvanized supports into it. No bolts or screws necessary. I am so convinced that this detail is essential, that I have thought about telling Shipshape to include this in their kit.
I snug mine up TIGHT aginst the rub rail, and always get a perfectly centered boat on the keel rollers.
minitauk85 posted 01-07-2006 06:28 PM ET (US)
I really appreciate all the help- the guideposts are installed and the trailer is ready to go- went to the depot for PVC cross member and the rest "went without a hitch"-sorry for the bad pun! Thanks again-k
minitauk85 posted 01-08-2006 09:26 AM ET (US)
Okay, one more question! The PVC uprights came with PVC caps ( little hole drilled in top for escaping air). Should these be glued to the uprights or left unglued? My thought is to use some PVC cement to affix them so they don't fall off- does it matter? -k
Chuck Tribolet posted 01-08-2006 09:39 AM ET (US)
Mine are close (1/4"?).
The caps long since disappeared. Air pressure blew them off.
No great loss.

Chuck
kingfish posted 01-08-2006 10:01 AM ET (US)
My current posts are capped, both to finish off the installation and to provide cover for the wiring inside. I think covers, if you have them, look just a little more complete. Cement them on, or, if you think you may ever want to add lights or change something, use one stainless steel screw; #6 x 1/2" +/-, through the cap into the post. Without some kind of anchorage, caps *will* disappear.
John
jimh posted 01-08-2006 02:10 PM ET (US)
If you have guide posts installed on your trailer and are launching the boat single-handedly, keep those guide posts in mind when dealing with mooring lines. My anecdote:
Normally when launching or loading my 22-footer I have Chris with me to assist, but recently I was doing this single-handed. I backed the boat down the ramp and into the water. I jumped out of the car, eased the boat off the trailer, and tied it to the courtesy dock alongside the ramp. I hopped back into the car to haul the trailer up the ramp and out of the way. Here comes the little hitch in the system....
The guide post at the rear of the trailer snagged on the bow line coming over from the boat to the dock. As I was hauling the trailer up the ramp, I felt this odd resistance in the trailer. Hmm, "What's the matter," I thought. I looked back. "Gosh that boat is awfully far forward at the dock...," I was thinking.
The boat was tied up on the starboard side, so from the driver's seat in the truck I could not see the problem. It was a busy day at the ramp and I was in a bit of a hurry so I just gave the truck a little more gas and up the ramp came the trailer. I parked and jogged back to the boat to get it going and clear the ramp.
About four hours later I returned. I tied the boat up and walked over to the truck and trailer to drive back to the ramp and haul the boat. The guide post on the starboard side of the trailer was at a bit of an angle from its normal vertical. Also, the cap was missing. "What could have done this," I was thinking. Then the light went on.
I got the boat back on the trailer by myself. Then I thought about that cap. Heck, it had to be someplace. I went back to the ramp where I had launched. (This is at an organized launching site where they have designated launching and loading ramps.) The water was a little turbid, but I thought for sure I could see something on the bottom on the ramp in about three feet of water. Back to the boat to get the boat hook. Up from the depths of the Detroit River came my trailer guide post cap. That saved a trip to Home Depot.
As I always observe, every time I go boating I learn something new.
JOHN W MAYO posted 01-08-2006 07:35 PM ET (US)
Loading the boat on the trailer will be greatly assisted by the guide posts. With current and wind they make a world of difference. Buy or make some, they make loading so much easier solo.
I actually bought another set to mount forward, I was so impressed with the aft ones...something you never see. It would make my trailer almost a drive on. It would line it up aft and forward . Problem was, the ones I bought at a going out of busness Overtons....were not wide enought for my boat, so I never really got to test it out.
Plotman posted 01-08-2006 09:08 PM ET (US)
On the trailers for my 2 different 22s, one had PVC guide posts and the other has 6 foot long bunk-type guideboards that run generally paralell to the ground.
I like this latter style much better I almost never have to recenter the boat, regardless of crosswind or current, and I frequently retrieve the boat alone.
The bunks are about an inch off of the side if the boat is properly centered. The trick I have discoverd to getting the boat centered every time is to power the boat onto the trailer is about 4 feet from the stop, and then bring it the rest of the way with the winch. On a boat with keel rollers this isn't too hard, and that last couple feet of pulling allows gravity and the V shape of the keel rollers to center the boat. I also have interior bunks that run basically along the keel, and I believe these help a lot in forcing the boat to center on the trailer.
David
st posted 01-09-2006 02:36 AM ET (US)
Here’s another idea that came up to me few days ago when I was attempting to do installation on mine. This is in no way intended to sidestep the excellent ideas that already discussed here by Kingfish and LHG; but only to give my personal opinion in solving our common boating problem, I hope.
To accomplish the same result as described above, I utilized the unused spare bolt holes that were already made available in the kit as supplied by Shipshape’s u-shaped brackets. Here’s what I meant:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/st2216/The%20Trailer/IMG_1960.jpg
This works out for me because my trailer frame is 2” wide; the unused holes are for 3” wide frame. What I needed to add were cutting those add on small metal straps to size, and bolting them together. This will essentially hold the horizontal member tight, thus resisting movement to the vertical member. I totally agree with you Kingfish and LHG (and some others as well), without the extra added devices, the vertical members will have a weak side support.
Just my 2 cents.
LHG posted 01-30-2006 07:07 PM ET (US)
Here is a photo of my detail used for stabilizing vertically the Guide-ons (by Shipshape) across the trailer frame. The extra tube just slides on.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/?action=view& current=Scan0041.jpg .
kingfish posted 01-30-2006 07:15 PM ET (US)
Good photo Larry - that really shows the idea nicely!
John

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Advice on Installing Trailer Guide Posts
minitauk85	posted 01-07-2006 08:38 AM ET (US) I am going to install 40-inch-high guide posts to my Whaler trailer and was wondering if anyone had advice as to the proper location and proper installation. How far should the PVC sleeves be from the rubrail (I am guessing about an inch leeway). Any suggestions or hints on attaching to trailer, the posts came with very brief directions, and it seems like a simple installation but I figured I'd ask. -k
kingfish	posted 01-07-2006 09:02 AM ET (US) I placed mine about 1" from the rubrail on both sides; the reasoning I used was that since the posts are flexible, once the boat is up against them as you are placing the boat on the trailer for retrieval, you can no longer tell exactly where the boat is laterally in relation to the trailer below it. My Outrage 22 has a very narrow "window" of lateral placement due to bunks on the trailer and their interaction with the outboard sponsons of my hull; 2" one way or the other from centered and I have to re-load. The 1" gap provides a visual that helps my helper (if I'm lucky enough to have one) keep the boat in position as I pull it and the trailer out of the deepest water of the ramp, until the boat is seated on the bunks as it needs to be. Are your new posts the type that have a bent, squared galvanized tube that attaches to your trailer frame with a vertical leg that 2" PVC pipes slip over for the guide posts, and that also have a horizontal leg that estends under the trailer frame towards the post on the other side? If so, give strong thought to purchasing some additional galvanized or at least PVC tubing of the correct size to slip the two horizontal extensions into under your trailer frame, so they sort of become one great big "U". I (and other before me) have found this to be a big help in stabilizing the guide posts bothe from twisting and from leaning in or out. I place my guide posts as far aft on the trailer as the framing allows me to do, taking into account the necessary space for the connector tube I just described. Finally, if you really want to trick your guide posts out (and want or need the additional safety), install Pipe-Lights on your guide posts - see the link below: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/003915.html John
minitauk85	posted 01-07-2006 09:33 AM ET (US) Kingfish- That's exactly why I posted this! That's a great idea reinforcing the extensions underneath - Great idea! The guide posts are exactly as you describe, and I had thought of maybe drilling an extra hole at the end of the horizontal member and bolting it to the frame in a diagonal, however your idea sounds easier and more effective. I was afraid that drilling a hole in the metal might provide an area for rust/corrosion to start. Did you attach the center member (PVC or aluminum) with bolts or does it simply stay put by being the correct length? Thanks for the input-k
kingfish	posted 01-07-2006 09:43 AM ET (US) k- I used PVC cut to the correct length and just let it move around as it wishes (not much room to move much, maybe an inch or two endo). Russ Gilson (Eagleman) first brought this idea to my attention, and he used galvanized tubing and I think he drilled and bolted his. Larry Goltz used PVC and as I was having some difficulty finding the correct galvanized, the idea of PVC bailed me out. I don't know if Larry bolted his or not. Kind of elective, I think... Keep us posted- John
zotcha	posted 01-07-2006 10:34 AM ET (US) Minitauk, though my trailer has the guide-ons I have never used them while launching or retrieving, and I always have an 8 to 9 knot current running (unless its slack high or low). This KILLS me in my Seacraft, but the 15 self-centers every time on the bunks because they are located inside the sponsons. I believe 42" apart. Point somewhere center with the bow and by the time I near the bow stop, I am centered. Guide-ons only seem to provide mounting for lights, and for striking the garage door openings, after a fun day on the water! Though not a New Years Resolution, I put down my Michelob Ultra at midnight, and haven't have one in seven days as of midnight tonight! After 36 years of "drinking for effect", I never thought this would be so easy and Boy, how productive one can be! Happy New Year! zotcha.
derf	posted 01-07-2006 02:03 PM ET (US) PVC is cheap and can be bent with a $10 Harbor Freight heat gun. Just fill it with sand and don't get the outside too hot in one small area. Galvanized water pipe or conduit can be used for the 90 degree part that bolts to the trailer and PVC used for the uprights. Or, you can buy PVC 90s.
jimh	posted 01-07-2006 03:25 PM ET (US) You will find loading the boat on the trailer will be greatly assisted by the guide posts. Place them as far aft on the trailer as possible. They will help the boat to stay centered on the trailer while the stern is still afloat. With the boat properly centered on the trailer, my guide posts are just touching the rub rails. In a couple of awkward ramp situations (where the dock at the ramp was very short and there were strong winds), the trailer had to be backed in far beyond the end of the dock. In those situations, if you don't drive the boat onto the trailer, the posts can get in the way of maneuvering the boat unto the trailer. I have had to use the guide posts as a turning post for the boat and warp the boat onto the trailer. This has resulted in some deformation of the guide post position. However, you can usually just give them a heave and bend them back into position. I'd rather have the guide posts give a little than be set so firmly they are like hitting a sign post. If you have a trailer with 5-inch cross-section frames, you will probably have to get special u-bolts to attach the guides. The manufacturer of the guide posts may offer to exchange the stock hardware for a set of extra-long U-bolts. I had this problem with my E-Z-Loader trailer which has very tall steel frame rails.
LHG	posted 01-07-2006 03:45 PM ET (US) I recommend you get the 60-inch tall guide-on's by Shipshape. They work well. As Kingfish has indicated, buy a piece of same diameter PVC as the verticals, cut it to within 1/4-inch of the inside dimension between trailer frame, and slide the the galvanized supports into it. No bolts or screws necessary. I am so convinced that this detail is essential, that I have thought about telling Shipshape to include this in their kit. I snug mine up TIGHT aginst the rub rail, and always get a perfectly centered boat on the keel rollers.
minitauk85	posted 01-07-2006 06:28 PM ET (US) I really appreciate all the help- the guideposts are installed and the trailer is ready to go- went to the depot for PVC cross member and the rest "went without a hitch"-sorry for the bad pun! Thanks again-k
minitauk85	posted 01-08-2006 09:26 AM ET (US) Okay, one more question! The PVC uprights came with PVC caps ( little hole drilled in top for escaping air). Should these be glued to the uprights or left unglued? My thought is to use some PVC cement to affix them so they don't fall off- does it matter? -k
Chuck Tribolet	posted 01-08-2006 09:39 AM ET (US) Mine are close (1/4"?). The caps long since disappeared. Air pressure blew them off. No great loss. Chuck
kingfish	posted 01-08-2006 10:01 AM ET (US) My current posts are capped, both to finish off the installation and to provide cover for the wiring inside. I think covers, if you have them, look just a little more complete. Cement them on, or, if you think you may ever want to add lights or change something, use one stainless steel screw; #6 x 1/2" +/-, through the cap into the post. Without some kind of anchorage, caps will disappear. John
jimh	posted 01-08-2006 02:10 PM ET (US) If you have guide posts installed on your trailer and are launching the boat single-handedly, keep those guide posts in mind when dealing with mooring lines. My anecdote: Normally when launching or loading my 22-footer I have Chris with me to assist, but recently I was doing this single-handed. I backed the boat down the ramp and into the water. I jumped out of the car, eased the boat off the trailer, and tied it to the courtesy dock alongside the ramp. I hopped back into the car to haul the trailer up the ramp and out of the way. Here comes the little hitch in the system.... The guide post at the rear of the trailer snagged on the bow line coming over from the boat to the dock. As I was hauling the trailer up the ramp, I felt this odd resistance in the trailer. Hmm, "What's the matter," I thought. I looked back. "Gosh that boat is awfully far forward at the dock...," I was thinking. The boat was tied up on the starboard side, so from the driver's seat in the truck I could not see the problem. It was a busy day at the ramp and I was in a bit of a hurry so I just gave the truck a little more gas and up the ramp came the trailer. I parked and jogged back to the boat to get it going and clear the ramp. About four hours later I returned. I tied the boat up and walked over to the truck and trailer to drive back to the ramp and haul the boat. The guide post on the starboard side of the trailer was at a bit of an angle from its normal vertical. Also, the cap was missing. "What could have done this," I was thinking. Then the light went on. I got the boat back on the trailer by myself. Then I thought about that cap. Heck, it had to be someplace. I went back to the ramp where I had launched. (This is at an organized launching site where they have designated launching and loading ramps.) The water was a little turbid, but I thought for sure I could see something on the bottom on the ramp in about three feet of water. Back to the boat to get the boat hook. Up from the depths of the Detroit River came my trailer guide post cap. That saved a trip to Home Depot. As I always observe, every time I go boating I learn something new.
JOHN W MAYO	posted 01-08-2006 07:35 PM ET (US) Loading the boat on the trailer will be greatly assisted by the guide posts. With current and wind they make a world of difference. Buy or make some, they make loading so much easier solo. I actually bought another set to mount forward, I was so impressed with the aft ones...something you never see. It would make my trailer almost a drive on. It would line it up aft and forward . Problem was, the ones I bought at a going out of busness Overtons....were not wide enought for my boat, so I never really got to test it out.
Plotman	posted 01-08-2006 09:08 PM ET (US) On the trailers for my 2 different 22s, one had PVC guide posts and the other has 6 foot long bunk-type guideboards that run generally paralell to the ground. I like this latter style much better I almost never have to recenter the boat, regardless of crosswind or current, and I frequently retrieve the boat alone. The bunks are about an inch off of the side if the boat is properly centered. The trick I have discoverd to getting the boat centered every time is to power the boat onto the trailer is about 4 feet from the stop, and then bring it the rest of the way with the winch. On a boat with keel rollers this isn't too hard, and that last couple feet of pulling allows gravity and the V shape of the keel rollers to center the boat. I also have interior bunks that run basically along the keel, and I believe these help a lot in forcing the boat to center on the trailer. David
st	posted 01-09-2006 02:36 AM ET (US) Here’s another idea that came up to me few days ago when I was attempting to do installation on mine. This is in no way intended to sidestep the excellent ideas that already discussed here by Kingfish and LHG; but only to give my personal opinion in solving our common boating problem, I hope. To accomplish the same result as described above, I utilized the unused spare bolt holes that were already made available in the kit as supplied by Shipshape’s u-shaped brackets. Here’s what I meant: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/st2216/The%20Trailer/IMG_1960.jpg This works out for me because my trailer frame is 2” wide; the unused holes are for 3” wide frame. What I needed to add were cutting those add on small metal straps to size, and bolting them together. This will essentially hold the horizontal member tight, thus resisting movement to the vertical member. I totally agree with you Kingfish and LHG (and some others as well), without the extra added devices, the vertical members will have a weak side support. Just my 2 cents.
LHG	posted 01-30-2006 07:07 PM ET (US) Here is a photo of my detail used for stabilizing vertically the Guide-ons (by Shipshape) across the trailer frame. The extra tube just slides on. http://photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/?action=view& current=Scan0041.jpg .
kingfish	posted 01-30-2006 07:15 PM ET (US) Good photo Larry - that really shows the idea nicely! John