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Author Topic:   Refinished Marinium Protection?

bkoelbel posted 03-17-2008 01:34 PM ET (US)
Despite the great articles on the Forum, I dsecided to bite the bullet and pay to have the Marinium parts refinished professionally.
They look brand new!
Any recommendations to help them stay that way? The guy at the finishing shop recommended a lacquer....but that didn't sound right.
Appreciate any feedback, thanks!

Tom Hemphill posted 03-17-2008 08:19 PM ET (US)
Congratulations on getting your hardware renewed. Mine doesn't look so good after forty years of neglect. Like you, I don't think lacquer sounds like a good idea. When it becomes scratched or blisters it will serve to trap moisture. I think regular cleaning and maybe a little wax will keep it looking good for decades.
kamie posted 03-17-2008 08:52 PM ET (US)
I agree with the person who did the work. Not sure how well it will hold up outside but I have used lacquer to seal polished brass for use inside.
4whaler posted 03-18-2008 05:45 PM ET (US)
I just powder coated the 4 cleats of the 1978 Revenge I'm restoring in a gray chrome look, then covered with a clear coat. I had buffed them up but decided to try and seal them so they wouldn't tarnish again. I may sandblast the gray off and just go with the clear powder coat which is my solution to lacquer.
Got some bubbling due to oven digital read out being broken and tried to guess the heat, but got to hot. It looks like corrosion pitting but it already had some of that. The chrome parts went to Tom Clark's recommend metal refinishing shop in Seattle WA. to get redone.
jeffs22outrage posted 03-19-2008 10:44 PM ET (US)
I repolished all of my marinium hardware myself on my 22 outrage twice in the 4 years I owned it. I used a polishing wheel on a bench grinder. A very dirty job. I am just that kind of perfectionist. I really found that a coating of a wipe on 100% silicon automotive tire dressing was the best thing. Once coated just buff it back out. This would greatly help protect against oxidization. To brighten them up between polishings I used 3m Rubbing compound on a terry cloth rag.
DO NOT CLEAR COAT THEM. No paint or vanish will adhere to metal for any period of time with out the proper surface prep (sanding) or primer. You would be lucky to get a month out of a sprayed on clear coat finish. Then you would have to sand the finish off. Not good.
The fruits of my labor after the twice a year detailing. The metal images can be found in this folder.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/?start=all
Tom W Clark posted 03-21-2008 11:52 AM ET (US)
The Wilcox-Crittenden Marinium fitting can be polished to a high shine but this is not how they were finished originally. They were anodized to protect the aluminum finish form the elements.
Anybody restoring their Marinium parts can take them to an anodizing shop and request that they be "clear anodized". This will leave them with a slightly matte finish the color of the aluminum and should hold up much better than just a bare polished surface.

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Author	Topic: Refinished Marinium Protection?
bkoelbel	posted 03-17-2008 01:34 PM ET (US) Despite the great articles on the Forum, I dsecided to bite the bullet and pay to have the Marinium parts refinished professionally. They look brand new! Any recommendations to help them stay that way? The guy at the finishing shop recommended a lacquer....but that didn't sound right. Appreciate any feedback, thanks!
Tom Hemphill	posted 03-17-2008 08:19 PM ET (US) Congratulations on getting your hardware renewed. Mine doesn't look so good after forty years of neglect. Like you, I don't think lacquer sounds like a good idea. When it becomes scratched or blisters it will serve to trap moisture. I think regular cleaning and maybe a little wax will keep it looking good for decades.
kamie	posted 03-17-2008 08:52 PM ET (US) I agree with the person who did the work. Not sure how well it will hold up outside but I have used lacquer to seal polished brass for use inside.
4whaler	posted 03-18-2008 05:45 PM ET (US) I just powder coated the 4 cleats of the 1978 Revenge I'm restoring in a gray chrome look, then covered with a clear coat. I had buffed them up but decided to try and seal them so they wouldn't tarnish again. I may sandblast the gray off and just go with the clear powder coat which is my solution to lacquer. Got some bubbling due to oven digital read out being broken and tried to guess the heat, but got to hot. It looks like corrosion pitting but it already had some of that. The chrome parts went to Tom Clark's recommend metal refinishing shop in Seattle WA. to get redone.
jeffs22outrage	posted 03-19-2008 10:44 PM ET (US) I repolished all of my marinium hardware myself on my 22 outrage twice in the 4 years I owned it. I used a polishing wheel on a bench grinder. A very dirty job. I am just that kind of perfectionist. I really found that a coating of a wipe on 100% silicon automotive tire dressing was the best thing. Once coated just buff it back out. This would greatly help protect against oxidization. To brighten them up between polishings I used 3m Rubbing compound on a terry cloth rag. DO NOT CLEAR COAT THEM. No paint or vanish will adhere to metal for any period of time with out the proper surface prep (sanding) or primer. You would be lucky to get a month out of a sprayed on clear coat finish. Then you would have to sand the finish off. Not good. The fruits of my labor after the twice a year detailing. The metal images can be found in this folder. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/?start=all
Tom W Clark	posted 03-21-2008 11:52 AM ET (US) The Wilcox-Crittenden Marinium fitting can be polished to a high shine but this is not how they were finished originally. They were anodized to protect the aluminum finish form the elements. Anybody restoring their Marinium parts can take them to an anodizing shop and request that they be "clear anodized". This will leave them with a slightly matte finish the color of the aluminum and should hold up much better than just a bare polished surface.