Best tool for gelcoat removal - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Best tool for gelcoat removal

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Best tool for gelcoat removal

DogOnIt posted 10-14-2010 09:09 PM ET (US)
On gel coat removal: I have combed the site and learned plenty from other members that have restored classic Whalers with extensive spider cracking. [What] is the proper tool to use for removing the old gel? I had planned on using a random orbit sander, which some other members have used. However other members reference using grinders or dual action sanders. Advice on the relative merits of each device would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Steve
modenacart posted 10-14-2010 09:10 PM ET (US)
Random orbital will take a really long time. I removed gel coat faster [using] board sanding by hand.
Jeff posted 10-14-2010 11:19 PM ET (US)
Are you looking for the best tool for the job, or are you looking for one to fit a budget?
This is the best tool for removing gelcoat:
http://www.paintshaver.com/marineshaver.html
modenacart posted 10-15-2010 05:14 PM ET (US)
My post should have said "using a board sander by hand."
DogOnIt posted 10-15-2010 06:38 PM ET (US)
Thanks guys.
Jeff, I wouldn't say I am looking for the cheapest way out, but the paint shaver is definitely too rich for my blood. I do appreciate the tip, though.
Modenacart, Do you use power tools in any part of the process in restoring a hull, or do you hand sand at every step when sanding is required (removing gel, after faring, after gel coat)? Do you use a dura block, if not, what do you use?
dfmcintyre posted 10-15-2010 07:37 PM ET (US)
Before giving up on the tool that Jeff pointed you to, check out the used prices on Ebay.
modenacart posted 10-15-2010 07:39 PM ET (US)
I am not against power tools at all, I just don't like dual action sanders or polishers. I just used what I had. I think if I had to do it again, I would use a grinder to remove most of the gelcoat, then use the board sander to remove what else you needed. Then spray a high build primer, spray a guide coat with either a guide paint or a different color primer and board sand. The two different colors will show you the high and low spots and fill the low spots. After that, I sprayed gel coat. On the gel coat I used a guide coat to show all the orange peel. I would use either the 3M dry guide coat or a real guide coat because you are going to want to be able to remove it easily and acetone will cut guide paint no problem. I would board sand the guide coat with 320 grit if you can go that high. After that block with 400. I used a dual action sander with P600 and P1000 after that. Then I used 3M imperial compound that can remove P600 grit DA sanding marks. It won't remove all the P600, that is why I would use the P1000 on the DA. I would use a direct drive buffer when compounding, it is night and day difference between the time it takes and the finish you get between a direct drive buffer and random orbital. After the 3M imperial, I used finesse II.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Best tool for gelcoat removal
DogOnIt	posted 10-14-2010 09:09 PM ET (US) On gel coat removal: I have combed the site and learned plenty from other members that have restored classic Whalers with extensive spider cracking. [What] is the proper tool to use for removing the old gel? I had planned on using a random orbit sander, which some other members have used. However other members reference using grinders or dual action sanders. Advice on the relative merits of each device would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Steve
modenacart	posted 10-14-2010 09:10 PM ET (US) Random orbital will take a really long time. I removed gel coat faster [using] board sanding by hand.
Jeff	posted 10-14-2010 11:19 PM ET (US) Are you looking for the best tool for the job, or are you looking for one to fit a budget? This is the best tool for removing gelcoat: http://www.paintshaver.com/marineshaver.html
modenacart	posted 10-15-2010 05:14 PM ET (US) My post should have said "using a board sander by hand."
DogOnIt	posted 10-15-2010 06:38 PM ET (US) Thanks guys. Jeff, I wouldn't say I am looking for the cheapest way out, but the paint shaver is definitely too rich for my blood. I do appreciate the tip, though. Modenacart, Do you use power tools in any part of the process in restoring a hull, or do you hand sand at every step when sanding is required (removing gel, after faring, after gel coat)? Do you use a dura block, if not, what do you use?
dfmcintyre	posted 10-15-2010 07:37 PM ET (US) Before giving up on the tool that Jeff pointed you to, check out the used prices on Ebay.
modenacart	posted 10-15-2010 07:39 PM ET (US) I am not against power tools at all, I just don't like dual action sanders or polishers. I just used what I had. I think if I had to do it again, I would use a grinder to remove most of the gelcoat, then use the board sander to remove what else you needed. Then spray a high build primer, spray a guide coat with either a guide paint or a different color primer and board sand. The two different colors will show you the high and low spots and fill the low spots. After that, I sprayed gel coat. On the gel coat I used a guide coat to show all the orange peel. I would use either the 3M dry guide coat or a real guide coat because you are going to want to be able to remove it easily and acetone will cut guide paint no problem. I would board sand the guide coat with 320 grit if you can go that high. After that block with 400. I used a dual action sander with P600 and P1000 after that. Then I used 3M imperial compound that can remove P600 grit DA sanding marks. It won't remove all the P600, that is why I would use the P1000 on the DA. I would use a direct drive buffer when compounding, it is night and day difference between the time it takes and the finish you get between a direct drive buffer and random orbital. After the 3M imperial, I used finesse II.