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Author Topic:   Mercury Oil Mixing Pump Failure: Plastic Drive Gear Fails
seaverd posted 07-16-2011 10:12 PM ET (US)   Profile for seaverd   Send Email to seaverd  
I have a 1996 Mercury 175 offshore two stroke engine on my 1996 Outrage 19. This past week a relative was using the boat and got the oil warning beep. They then drove the boat 5 miles back to our slip at 1200 rpms with no problems other than the beeping. I went to camp and ran through the Mercury service manual and have determined that the oil pump shaft was not spinning. I pulled the oil pump bushing and gear there was a bunch of plastic shavings on the gear and after reading these forums, I assume this is what failed. My question is...how were they able to go so far without oil...shouldn't the engine be seized? I ran the engine off of premix in a remote tank at our slip and everything seemed fine. I assume I should run a compression test on each cylinder...is there anything else I should check to see if the powerhead is damaged by the lack of oil?

So at this point I am aware of 2 options...pull the oil pump, install the plug and convert to premix or the electric oil pump retrofit. The electric retrofit is $400-$450. I understand that premixing is inconvenient (on average I use 150 gallons of fuel a year, most of which is purchased in 5 gallon carboys at the regular gas station...so I don't see mixing as a big deal). I also understand that premixing 50:1 is for full throttle so I will be using more oil vs the electric pump which will vary the oil based on speed. If we decide to premix, how do I convert. The tank is 87 gallons and is half full. Do I run off a premix remote tank, add the correct oil to get 87 gallons of gas to 50:1, take the boat out on the remote premix tank to slosh the oil around in the main tank and then keep adding gas to the tank until it is full...my issue is that I don't know exactly how many gallons are currently in the tank...I only know its capacity.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Dan

Buckda posted 07-16-2011 10:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Dan -

I'd do a compression test anyway - especially after a major lubrication failure - but I bet it's fine. The Mercury system was engineered very well - so much so that if it's like the one on my old Black Max, the only failure mode (barring passage blockage or broken oil lines) is that if the pump stops working, the oil in the powerhead mounted tank will "gravity feed" into the fuel and provide a measure of protection for as long as that tank has oil.

I'm not as familiar with the 175 Offshore, but I assume that the engineers didn't change too much in terms of redundant/fail safe features.

Re: if you decide to pre-mix. Do the conversion for a full tank, and dose your 5-gallon cans with heavy doses to get the right mix. You can double the mix from 50:1 to 25:1 without any problems of oil in the solution. Old, old, old outboards ran 24:1 ratios - so it's completely doable. The biggest problem is that you don't know exactly how much more gas you can put in the tank - so for the first fill up, I'd go to the station during off hours, and add heavy doses of oil to 5 gallon cans - more like 15:1, and go mixed, unmixed, mixed unmixed until you get the proper volume of oil for 87 gallons, then just fill the tank the rest of the way from the nozzle.

jimh posted 07-16-2011 11:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
With the common problem of the Mercury oil system having the plastic drive gear failure, you have correctly identified the two most reasonable options: go to pre-mix or refit with an after-market electric oil mixing pump.

I disagree with Dave's analysis about the failsafe mode. The oil mixing pump is driven by the plastic gear. If there is no drive shaft input motion to the oil mixing pump, I don't think you get much oil mixing. Dave is correct that there is a gravity feed of oil to the pump. I don't know how much oil can flow through the mixing pump from the gravity feed when there is no motion of the pump drive shaft.

I think the engine was saved by the low speed operation following the warning horn. Limiting engine speed to 1,200-RPM was a good idea.

Did you ask your relative what engine speed was being used prior to the failure? I have heard that the plastic drive gear in the Mercury oil mixing system tends to fail when the engine speeds are quite high. For old-timers, who like to loaf along at 2,500-RPM on their Mercury engines, the life of the plastic gear can be extended. But revving to 6,000-RPM might cause the plastic gear to to fail.

A visual inspection of the cylinder walls can also reveal if there was damage from reduced or no lubrication during the limp-home run.

seaverd posted 07-16-2011 11:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for seaverd  Send Email to seaverd     
Good suggestion ....I am not trailering the boat...so I have to do this on the water. I have 4 gas carboys that I can mix up...that is why I was going to run off the remote tank ....I am hoping the wave action will help it...if I go this route.
jimh posted 07-16-2011 11:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Also see
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/mercuryOilInjection.html

for more information on the Mercury oil mixing system and the notorious plastic gear problem. That article is in reference to an older engine. Your 1996 engine may have some improvements. If you have a factory service manual it should explain the operation in more detail. It might clarify if there is any oil mixing occurring after the plastic drive gear fails.

Buckda posted 07-16-2011 11:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
JimH -
I no longer have my shop manual for my Mercury Black Max motor, however, I specifically remember reading that the oil in the powerhead-mounted tank would flow to the engine even if the pump was not operating....meaning that you had that quantity of oil in reserve that "dumped" into the fuel stream. I know this because I read the manual *very* keenly when the alarm went off at Isle Royale in 2005. On the 56 mile ride back to Copper Harbor, I stopped several times to check the level of oil in that powerhead-mounted tank. I was prepared to run with the cowl off and manually add oil to that smaller reservoir for the ride back, if necessary (which proved not to be needed in my situation). That nearly 3 hours of boating and the preceeding hours of reading the shop manual in the middle of a wilderness setting has been burned into my memory.

I do not know if the 175 Offshore motor has this powerhead-mounted reservoir or not. If it does, it is very likely that the engine never really suffered a "no oil" situation.

pcrussell50 posted 07-16-2011 11:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
FWIW, it is also a common theme over on the fastboat forums. But they also tend to be engine nuts, more tolerant of things like premixing. I can relate.

-Peter

jimh posted 07-17-2011 08:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Dave--You may be confusing the behavior of the Mercury oil system when the lift pump fails. Mercury uses two pumps. One pump lifts oil from the remote tank to the under-cowling reservoir. If this pump fails, the motor can still be run for some time because the oil in the under-cowling reservoir will still flow into the mixing pump; it flows from gravity so no pumping action is needed. No new oil will be lifted from the remote tank to the under-cowling tank, but you can run the motor and use the oil that remains in the under-cowling tank. Once the under-cowling tank level drops just slightly you get an alarm, but the engine is still being oiled.

If the plastic drive gear on the input shaft to the oil mixing pump fails, the oil mixing pump stops operating. The pictorial-schematic diagram that Mercury shows for the system illustrates that the oil mixing pump inlet is lower than the oil mixing pump outlet. This is reasonable, because the system is designed to allow the oil mixing pump to meter the flow of oil from the under-cowling reservoir tank to the fuel system. The output of the oil mixing pump is just Tee-ed into the fuel hose upstream of the fuel pump inlet.

I don't see how gravity would be able to push the oil through the oil mixing pump if it was not being rotated by its input shaft driven from the crankshaft via the plastic gear. Perhaps the pump is ingeniously designed so that when it stops working it still allows some oil to pass through it and go on to the fuel pump.

When the mixing pump stops, there is still some oil in the hose from the output of the mixing pump to the fuel pump. This oil could be drawn into the fuel pump. If the engine were operating at idle speed for an hour--that might be the time it took to go five miles back to the ramp at dead slow or 5-MPH--this oil in the output hose could continue to be drawn into the fuel pump and mix with gasoline. At idle we only need a 100:1 mixture. We could say that at idle the engine might burn only a gallon per hour. This means we only need 1/100-gallon of oil to lubricate the engine properly. This is likely what happened in seaverd's motor. The alarm sounded, the operator slowed the engine to idle, and there was enough oil in the output hose of the stopped oil mixing pump to keep the engine from running dry on oil.

Newtauk1 posted 07-17-2011 12:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Newtauk1    
[In] what years and [in what horsepower range of Mercury engines] has this [failure of the plastic drive gear in the oil mixing pump input shaft] problem been with? Are there any reported gear drive failures with the 90-HP two-cycle engine, which is a very popular motor for the boaters on this site? Or, is the 90-HP not experiencing this problem?
seaverd posted 07-17-2011 07:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for seaverd  Send Email to seaverd     
O.K. - I think JimH's explaination makes sense. When I started the engine for only a few seconds for the first time I did get a puff of blue smoke. I also now from disconnecting the oil line to test pump output that there was oil in the output tube.

Now what to do premix or electric oil pump. Once a year we have a Fresh Air Kid from NY City and he loves the boat...he gets here on Thursday...so If I am going the pump route I have to order it Monday without the benefit of doing a compression test. What do you think I should do???

Thanks,

Dan

jimh posted 07-17-2011 07:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The failure of the plastic drive gear that turns the steel input shaft of the oil mixing pump is a very widely know problem for owners of Mercury engines which have such an arrangement. This design was mainly used in older six-cylinder engines.

In the smaller two-cycle engines like the three-cylinder 90-HP two-cycle classic Mercury outboard, I believe a different sort of oil mixing pump is used. The details should be shown in the service manual.

Tom W Clark posted 07-17-2011 08:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Dave does not have his Mercury Shop Manual anymore, but I do...have Dave's Shop manual. He sent it to me some years ago!

Jim is correct about how the oil injection system works; the reserve reservoir will supply oil to the motor only *if* the oil injection pump is still working.

Regardless of how seavard's motor survived the failure of the injection pump (and two stroke's are much more robust and tolerant of abuse than most folks give them credit for), it is what it is. Given that only 150 gallons of fuel are used in a season, premixing is the obvious and not very burdensome solution to the dilemma.

To add oil to an existing quantity of fuel in the tank, premix the oil with a small amount of gas, say five gallons, then add the mixture to the tank.

Yes, some agitation by means of running the boat on a portable tank, would be a prudent way to insure the complete mixing of the oil with the gas in the boat's tank.

Tom W Clark posted 07-17-2011 08:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
As a point of reference, my 22 year old Mercury 150s consume oil at an average gas/oil ratio of 60:1 for all use. Premixing at 50:1 is not giving up very much economy of oil.
AZdave posted 07-18-2011 01:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for AZdave  Send Email to AZdave     
I currently mix fuel for a 135 hp V-6 Mercury. This gives me some peace of mind, but it has a few negative aspects. If you do not know how much fuel is needed to completely fill your tank you can't calculate the amount of oil needed. As Buckda suggested, it is better to pre-dilute oil in a quantity of gasoline. This helps to ensure that a puddle of oil did not form at the bottom of the tank when poured in. You may find that the kids fueling boats at a marina are not too helpful with your need to pause several times in the fueling process to add oil. If you have a four stroke kicker, you will need a separate tank for its fuel. That is not entirely a bad thing as you would like to have separate and redundant fuel supplies, but you are giving up deck space. Finally, you can't siphon all the gas out of the tank at the end of the season and burn it in your tractor or whatever, because it has oil mixed with it.
seaverd posted 07-18-2011 06:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for seaverd  Send Email to seaverd     
The last post made me think of winter storage. To date at the end of the season, I completely fill the tank with gas(with stabilizer) to avoid issue with condensation. If I convert to premix do I need to do anything different as part of my winterization procedure? Will it be OK in the boats tank over the winter(upstate NY)
Thanks
Dan
jimh posted 07-18-2011 07:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The drudgery of pre-mixing increases with the size of the fuel tank. It is never much of a problem to pre-mix for a six gallon tank. One pint of oil for six-gallons is an easy ratio to remember, and in a small tank you can usually agitate the tank by hand. If you have a large tank, say 77-gallons or more, and you are going to add a large volume of fuel, pre-mixing is more difficult. Let's say you plan to add 50-gallons of gasoline. You will need a gallon of oil added. You certainly do not want to throw in a large volume of oil all by itself into a nearly empty tank. The best method to add oil for pre-mixing is to use a very wide mouth funnel to add the gasoline, and to pour a small stream of oil into the funnel while the gasoline is flowing into the tank. However, this method takes two people.

L H G tells a story of his fuel system becoming clogged with oil in the fuel lines after a marina gas dock refused to allow him to be on the boat during fueling, and he could not mix the oil with the gasoline as it was being added to the tank.

Besides the drudgery of pre-mixing, there is another serious drawback to it: there is no alarm system to remind the operator to add oil. If gasoline is added and someone forgets the oil, you won't get an alarm buzzer going off to protect the motor. This could be a concern in a boat which has multiple operators. The opposite problem, too much oil, can also be a drawback. Sometimes the philosophy used at fueling is "if a little oil is good, more oil is better," and the oil mixing ratio might become too rich.

seaverd posted 07-18-2011 08:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for seaverd  Send Email to seaverd     
I think I am going to be fine with premixing - here is why. I start the season off with a full tank. I generally top the main tank off with two 5 gallon carboys filled at the mobil gas station down the road. I can add the oil to the empty carboy and then fill it with the 5 gallons at the gas station...I assume this will be enough mixing. I then dump these carboys into the boat gas tank at my dock. I never use fuel docks on the water.

Tom W Clark posted 07-18-2011 10:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
The disadvantages of premixing laid out above are all true. I am very glad not to have to premix my fuel at present, however, if I find myself in seaverd's predicament some day, I would probably premix the fuel for my motors and not worry about it too much.

There is no question that adding gasoline and oil simultaneously to a funnel with a fine screen is the best way to ensure proper mixing, but with a 140 gallon tank, I will never got to that extreme. Oil mixes with gasoline very easily and adding all the oil to five or ten gallons of gas and mixing that will do a very thorough job of creating a tank of premix.

As to the dilemma of how to calculate the proper amount of oil to add to a partially full tank, that is easy for anybody who has a fuel flow meter. My FloScan tells me exactly how much fuel my fuel tank can take be keeping track of how much has been used since the last fill up.

I filled my tank a couple weeks ago and the FloScan indicated I had used 124.7 gallons since I reset it. The gas station fuel pump indicated I put 125.01 gallons in the tank. In six years of ownership, that FloScan has never been off by as much as even one percent.

If I had had to premix, I would have needed 2.5 gallons of oil added to the gasoline. In that case, I would have added 1.25 gallons to two five gallon gas cans, filled them with gas, agitated them and then added those to the boat's tank half way though the fueling process.

I would also not care too much if I ended up with a 55:1 ratio or a 45:1 ratio. I might lament any wasted expense on extra oil used, but neither of my motors would care one iota. Given seaverd's description of his use, he will be just fine with premixing.

weekendwarrior posted 07-18-2011 10:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for weekendwarrior  Send Email to weekendwarrior     
If you premix, figure out the capacity of your tank then put enough oil for the entire tank into a 5 gal can. Mix it up and pour it in. Then top off the main tank. As long as the entire 5 gal went in you will have plenty of oil for the entire tank. If the tank doesn't fill all the way then you will be a tad rich on oil for a little while but no harm done.

If you are planning to keep the motor for a while and money isn't a problem then my vote is go with the electric pump solution, assuming that solution has proven more reliable than the original pump. I hate mixing gas. ;)

captbone posted 07-18-2011 02:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
Dave--I have a different take on the situation than most. Your system only has one oil pump in it. The oil is moved from the 3-gallon remote tank to the engine-mounted tank via pressure from the crankcase. There is no pump in the remote tank like on other outboard engines, hence why you have two hoses in your oil injection system.

Your engine, a later model 2.5-liter, should have a motion detector for the gear-driven oil pump for detecting failures of the plastic gear. This would give you instant information of the failure of the gear.

By limiting your RPM you most likely did no harm to the engine, as the fuel lubricates the cylinders more than oil at lower RPM. I doubt much if any oil got pass the oil driven pump during your failure.

You would be better off pre-mixing your fuel than installing an electric pump. The oil does not sit in fuel like you would think. It dilutes quickly--couple of seconds. Most people have this idea of shampoo in water and the oil just sitting on the bottom, but oil does not act like that.

seaverd posted 07-21-2011 02:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for seaverd  Send Email to seaverd     
So I have called locally to find the mercury 43453 oil injection block off plug and the 32509 o-ring and no one locally has them. Since our Fresh air kid is coming today. Do you think I can get away with reinserting the worm gear, coupler and oil pump. I would then plug the inlet oil line from the oil reservoir and the outlet line from the pump. Basically I would be using the original parts to hold the brass bushing inside the engine in place until I can get the correct block off parts. What do you think????
lakeman posted 07-21-2011 03:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for lakeman  Send Email to lakeman     
I doubt damage to engine, would not even worry about it, my self. I like oil injection systems, even from years ago with the problems...... If a new set of gears and necessary other stuff last another 14 years, you will have gotten all the srevice you paid for out of the motor. Mixing oil is a PITA.
If the engine will run at high RPM, just premixed for a while what gas you need, then just go back to the oil injection system after repair, the little bit of extra oil will not beba problem.
captbone posted 07-21-2011 04:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
You can just run 50:1 fuel and you will be fine. If you look carefully at the oil injection system, all it does is mix oil with fuel before the engine burns it. If you premix you are taking care of the job just in a different way.

Just my 2 cents.

jimh posted 07-22-2011 08:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I never liked the use of the term "injection" when used with these simple oil-gasoline mixing systems. There really is nothing like an injector in use. I have a much more modern two-cycle motor that actually has an oil injection system; it has a pulsing oil pump and a oil distribution manifold that injects oil in about a dozen locations on the engine block. You can call that an oil injection system. This older Mercury oil mixing system just feeds a T-connector on the fuel hose. If it is "injecting" oil somewhere, it is just into that T-connector on the fuel hose.
jimh posted 07-22-2011 08:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The Mercury system has two pumps. One is an air pump that pressurizes the remote oil reservoir that is driven by crankcase pressure pulses. The second is the pump driven by plastic gear that pushes the oil into the fuel hose T-connector.
captbone posted 07-22-2011 07:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
There is no "air pump". The engine simply tubes crankcase pressure into the oil tank.
jimh posted 07-22-2011 10:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Ha-ha-ha-ha. What a laugh. Of course there is an air pump. There is a check valve and that makes a pump. If the crankcase were simply connected to the oil reservoir without some sort of a pump or check valve, the pressure would just go back and forth.

I think you are just trying to split hairs and start an argument. Let's get back to the real problem: lousy design with a plastic gear that costs $3,000 to fix. Or do you want to argue about that, too?

captbone posted 07-24-2011 02:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
No, I dont want to argue. I want you to tell us more about your wonderful, amazing engine that has nothing to do with the real problem.

"I have a much more modern two-cycle motor that actually has an oil injection system; it has a pulsing oil pump and a oil distribution manifold that injects oil in about a dozen locations on the engine block."

The engine is a naturally air pump, there is no external air pump or a second pump. The Mercury system takes advantage of the natural characteristic of the engine. It is the best design on the market for transfering oil from the main tank to the engine mounted tank. There is not two pumps. What would you count as the parts of the pump? A check valve? The whole pump is made up a check valve?

You have to give credit to the design.

Just trying to keep everything fair and pass correct information. There is only one pump. ;)

jimh posted 07-24-2011 04:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
My comments were completed related to the discussion once the term "oil injection" was made a topic. I simply commented that there is very little injection of oil going on in the system that Mecury called an oil injection system. The oil is only pumped into a Tee fitting with the fuel hose, as you yourself described.

In more modern motors that actually have an oil injection system, not the simple little Tee-connector on the fuel hose, the oil is actually injected at various places around the engine.

As I said, Mercury calling their simple oil mixing system an oil injection system was a poor choice of words.

Fuel injection is also misleading, at least in the sense that Mercury and other have used it. They really do not inject fuel in a cylinder at all, they just spray fuel into the air path, just like a carburetor would do. I suppose they have some sort of injector doing the spraying, but it just sprays the fuel into the air path upstream of the cylinder. Not much injection going on.

We do seem to have a lot of interjection going on in this discussion.

I wrote a long article that compares the Mercury oil mixing system with the Evinrude oil mixing system. If you want to see my opinion of each system and the components in each system, just read that article.

Automatic Oiling System: OMC/Bombardier versus Mercury
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/OMCvMERC.html

There is even a dedicated thread for discussion of that topic. Feel free to stop trying to turn this discussion of the failure of the plastic drive gear on a Mercury outboard motor which ruined the oil mixing system and required very expensive repair into something else.

jimh posted 07-24-2011 04:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
There is nothing particularly special about Mercury pumping oil from a remote tank to the engine with pressure. Mercury uses positive pressure, most everyone else uses negative pressure. The oil moves because of a differential in pressure. This is not particularly amazing or worthy of recognition as being a better design. All the oil systems use a pressure differential to move the oil.
leadsled posted 07-26-2011 11:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for leadsled  Send Email to leadsled     
If you decide to premix your oil and plan on doing any prolonged trolling or slow speed operation I have an idea that might be worth considering. In the old days before oil injection the harbormaster's 17' Whalers did a lot of extended slow speed patroling which led to plug fouling. Their solution was to put less oil in one of the 12 gal under seat tanks. They would run off that tank and when they needed to go high speed they would switch over to the other 12 gal tank which had 50 to 1 mix. You might rig a small tank the same way. I run less than 50 to 1 in my trolling engine because most of the trolling I do is at less than 2 mph. If I needed to use the engine to get me home I would naturally have to add some oil to the tank for high output operation. Hope this idea helps.
jimh posted 07-27-2011 01:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
'sled's idea is interesting, and perhaps workable, as long as the operator were diligent about running the engine from the correct tank as the engine speed dictated.
leadsled posted 07-27-2011 06:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for leadsled  Send Email to leadsled     
Someone at my parents house had used the fuel for my chainsaw and refilled it with gas--straight gas. I went out and started cutting the loglenths of firewood for the winter. After refilling it I ran it for a while then it wouldn't run. It wasn't siezed up. I just figured the carburetor was clogged, so I went up and grabbed my Dad's saw and started cutting again. After I refilled it with gas it ran for quite a while than it wouldn't run either. My Dad brought them to his mechanic and found out they both needed new pistons. That was a valuable lesson.

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