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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
Yamaha 703 Remote Control Electrical Problem(s)
|Author||Topic: Yamaha 703 Remote Control Electrical Problem(s)|
posted 10-14-2009 05:58 PM ET (US)
I have a Yamaha 703 side mount remote control box that goes to my trusty T50 four stroke engine. Recently I developed an electrical starting problem that I traced to a faulty wire crimp near the starter relay and ...wala, I was in the good again.
Even more recently, after a wet day of boating and lots of water down the rigging tunnel, the problem occured again. I was required to "hot wire" the engine over the two relay terminals and fish all day happily. Today I tore apart the wiring and and found some problems, including a broken micro switch in the 703 (neutral safety switch) which I temporarily bypassed, with no results.
All of the mechanics I've talked to say the ignition switch never goes bad, but at this point I don't think there is anything else in the electrical path of the starting system. I had suspected a short in the wires in the rigging tunnel, but after pulling all the wires out, I could not fine any damaged wire insulation.
Any ideas or experience from those who have owned and successfully diagnosed and repaired the electrical components of a yamaha 703 remote control?
posted 10-14-2009 06:57 PM ET (US)
I just traced the problem to the neutral safety switch assembly (yamaha part number 703-82540-00-00).
I was able to get the motor to start after bypassing the switch. I will look for a replacement before paying upwards of $30 from a dealer for a part worth $1.
Jimh, you may elect to delete this thread if you find it may not be helpful to others on the forum. Strange side note; when searching 703 remote control repairs, continuous wave was one of the hits as is often the case when I'm trying to solve problems with my boat!
posted 10-14-2009 08:23 PM ET (US)
Ok, I'm on a roll here. I took the old broken neutral safety switch with me to a cool local electronics store:
I bought this switch instead of paying a dealer $20 for the same thing.
I was lucky to have this handy little electronics surplus store near my house. It is a perfect retrofit for the OEM part.
posted 10-14-2009 10:20 PM ET (US)
Steve--Looks like it's made by OMRON.
posted 10-14-2009 10:39 PM ET (US)
I was amazed at how accurate a retrofit the switch was. the OEM yamaha part had an additional pole that was not connected to a wire.
one of the reasons that I may have wore out the switch prematurely is that while fishing near the shore in the ocean, I constantly move the boat from neutral to reverse, and back to neutral, to control the drift. Also when someones line becomes snagged on the bottom, I reverse the boat over the spot to help free the line. This is also probably hard on the linkage as well as the gearbox in the motor.
It's always a rewarding experience to avoid a trip to the mechanic, and I always learn something new about the boat.
posted 10-15-2009 02:23 PM ET (US)
Very interesting information. I like finding aftermarket parts that save some coin. My old Pate fuel tank required a $24 plus shipping replacement ventilated cap. Stant, from local NAPA, $5 and change. And replacement relays for trim and tilt ridiculously cheaper at same store. Both learned from Continuous Wave. Thank you.
posted 10-15-2009 11:34 PM ET (US)
I hate to admit it, but I also bought the equipment to make a "hot wire" button for my boat in case this problem repeats on the water again. It simply involves two small jumper cable style spring clamp style terminals and a heavy duty momentary spring loaded switch. It beats using a screwdriver and making sparks all over the place, as well as making my passengers nervous about my seamanship!
I simply turn the key to the on position (or hot wire if the ignition dies) and then clamp the two clips on the relay terminals and hit the chicken switch. Gone in 60 seconds.
I had a couple of divers on board in Carmel who worked for Oracle on board when I pulled the screwdriver move...
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