Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE with Carburetors Will Not Start

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Author Topic:   Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE with Carburetors Will Not Start

Knot at Work posted 04-09-2010 10:33 PM ET (US)
It finally got me: my Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE with carburetors won't start for the season opening. [I] noticed water in the filter separator and drained [the water] before starting. [I] tried to pump the bulb. [I] got a little [pressure] but not a lot of pressure. [The 90-HP Mercury FOURSTROKE outboard] will not turn over. [I] went through the trouble :
--replaced the bulb and tank to engine fuel line
--drained tanks and replaced with star tron treated fuel--drained carbs
--had fuel line pieces (chunks) in my filter bowl.
--Ethanol fuel (oh yea)
--plugs are good.
--getting Fuel to Carbs
--looked at the Fuel Extender Ignition pugs they are good
--battery charged
--can't get engine to stay running with engine start.
[I] have to tear down carbs, huh?
Knot at Work posted 04-09-2010 10:40 PM ET (US)
And yea it has been a long time since posting
WT posted 04-09-2010 11:57 PM ET (US)
My dealer cleaned and rebuilt my carbs of my 2004 170 Montauk twice from when I bought the boat March 2004 and February 2007.
I had to change my fuel lines also. The liner inside the fuel line collapsed causing a restriction in fuel flow.
A few years ago at a very crowed ramp my boat wouldn't start. I realized the shifter was not in neutral. Ooooops. :-)
Good luck,
Warren

number9 posted 04-10-2010 12:12 AM ET (US)
Likely a carb rebuil and disassembly cleaning unless you are lucky. Yamaha recommends removing all rubber and plastic parts and soaking overnight in carb cleaner. When they say cleaner they mean the caustic carb and parts cleaner re-builders use not generic spay carb cleaner. The stuff in the gallon can with the the dip basket, not available in all states. To clean out fine passesges they recommend using a single strand of multi-strand copper wire to prevent damage. Good luck.
MosslandingJoe posted 04-11-2010 11:42 AM ET (US)
knot: I have a 2004 170 with a 90 HP four-cycle that has carburetors, so I get concerned when I read posts like yours. Did you leave the fuel in the system last time you ran the boat? What type of gas were you running? What grade? How many hours do you have on the motor? Did you stabilize the fuel last time you ran the motor? Do you have only the stock fuel filter? There have been previous discussions concerning the deterioration of the fuel lines. For some reason the silver fuel lines seem to have reacted the worst to ethanol based fuel. Is the silver one the one you have? I hate to think that tear down and rebuild is an inevitable result of the design, as that is expensive. But moreso because carburetor technology has a long history of reliable usage. I know these carburetors have very [small diameter] passages, but still they should give a long and dependable life. I'm not trying to say that we the users are responsible for problems they develop but there should at least be a method by which we could ameliorate the [problems with carburetors]. So far running only Chevron mid grade with Techron, stabilizing every tank of fuel, and running the motor out of fuel during the flush period every time has prevented this problem for me. I also have two fuel filters and never store fuel in the tanks for any period of time; that gas gets transfered to one of my cars. But I would like to hear other suggestions as well. Best of Luck and let us know. Joe
number9 posted 04-11-2010 02:48 PM ET (US)
I've considered rigging up a carburetor bowl drain manifold on my four cylinder.
Knot at Work posted 04-12-2010 09:04 AM ET (US)
Thanks all. Thanks also to John S who got farther than I was a few days ago.
I received an email suggesting I mix Sea Foam with small amount of Gasoline and work into Fuel system (filter and hoses and lines and carbs). Prior to this recommendation, I was at wits end. I was using Gumout and spraying into the air intake to get some fuel to carbs to try to get them to burn this crap out. Engine would stutter and stop. No Fuel was going to my Plugs but was getting into the carbs. I suspect Varnish on the Jets and passages...
Worked the sea foam in on Saturday and got the engine to stay running for a short duration.
Let it sit overnight after running through Extenders and carbs and flue line and filter.
Sunday morning got it to turn over and run on its own for 15 minutes. Then rinse repeat.. IDle is not ideal but she continues to make progress....
will let you know if I get her up and running enough to try a launch. Alternative is to pull the carbs.
KAW
Knot at Work posted 04-12-2010 09:10 AM ET (US)
Moss, to answer your question. I had an [problem] with low speed idle last year that required a carburetor passage unclog on Carburetor #3. Cost me $500 and was fine for three months.
I ran my motor dry and filter dry in November 2009. I did not drain the carburetor bowls. I will now start to do that if I lay up for a month or so.
I run what fuel I can get. usually mid-grade fuel but lately all has 10-percent ethanol. My motor is LOW hours as I was over seas for three of the seven years I owned it. I have approx 270 hours on my motor.
Prior to the last run out, I did use Stabil Marine and flushed it out and let it run through the filter before fuel starve. I planned on replacing my stock filter at the start of this season and did exactly that. I drained the fuel bowl which had half full of fuel that was mostly water. I suspect that I have severe varnish in my carburetors.
Knot at Work posted 04-12-2010 09:12 AM ET (US)
Moss,
also I have the silver fuel line that goes from the bulb to the engine. The new one I have on is still silver but lacks the interior brown liner the old had. Supposed to me ethanol resistante.
Knot at Work posted 04-12-2010 10:49 PM ET (US)
Surrendered. Took it into the local Mercury mechanic. Mechanic said my Mercury, er Yamaha will be up in running in a week or so. He charges $95 an hour for labor for those that are interested. OUCH
WT posted 04-12-2010 11:11 PM ET (US)
The Boston Whaler dealer in Northern California charges $110/hour for labor. :-O
Ridge Runner posted 04-15-2010 07:39 PM ET (US)
I have a 2005 Yamaha 50HP carburetor two-cycle with only about 100 hours. I always treat the fuel, run dry and winterized. Went to start it in the spring. and it would not start. The Yamaha only ran on bursts of starting fluid. Took it to a dealer all the carburetors. Three needed to be rebuilt. I talked to the service manager for a long time and he told me unless unless you run dry and then drain the bowls you run the risk of fuel in the carburetors phase separting. I now drain the bowls if the motor is not going to be run for a month or more. I have had no [problems].
Knot at Work posted 04-15-2010 09:42 PM ET (US)
Well, my Mercury Shop called me. Not good. Turns out the carburetor bowls are varnished and corroded from the ethanol and water. It started a corrosion circuit. and it is threatening the carburetors. One carburetor bowl is eaten through. I will have pictures in a weak when I pick the boat up.
The plan is to now replace each carburetor bowl, float and needle and rebuild the carburetors after cleaning out.
Cost is $1,100 so far. New carburetor costs $550 so that option is out.
Mercury repair guy's advice was to NOT drain the bowls but simply run the motor each month and keep the fluids moving through the carburetors. Damn ETHANOL!
bobgilsp posted 04-16-2010 11:19 PM ET (US)
The carburetors on Japanese four-cycle engines are often motorcycle carbs--Mikuna or Keihin. So, motorcycle mechanics might be able to rebuild them for you. A couple of years ago, I had good luck cleaning the varnish out of the four Keihin carburetors on my Honda BF90. Had to remove the entire intake manifold as a unit. Could then remove each carburetor in turn from the stack. Was able to separate the bowl on each without harming the gasket. Each float and needle cleaned up nicely, soaking in carburetor solvent. Had to use AeroKroil to loosen some of the brass jet screws. Put all of them to soaking in solvent. Came nice and clean. Reassembled without damaging anything, so I didn't have to replace a single part. Got all four into the stack, checked the enrichment valve,and& reattached manifold assembly to engine. It ran like new. I've attempted to get all gasahol out when I winterize, but last Spring I also put SeaFoam in my water-fuel separator when I first fired it up. After smoking, sputtering, and refusing to idle, it ran like a champ.
wezie posted 04-17-2010 09:33 AM ET (US)
Sorry the cleaner did not get you farther.
The corrosion is something new to me.
I do believe this is just the tip of the alcohol garbage fuel debacle; being caused by the FFG.
At any cost, lets push this off on the people.
Good Luck!!
elaelap posted 04-21-2010 12:57 PM ET (US)
Good to hear from you again, knots, even though it's concerning this unpleasant problem. Welcome home safe and sound!
Tony
WisED posted 04-21-2010 02:12 PM ET (US)
If price is not an obstacle, why not simply replace the engine? Yes, the cost will be significant, but the new 4 stroke fuel injected engines make old carburators seem like they are from the stone age. Much better efficiency, much less maintenance, and superbly better reliability, plus of course, much better for the environment. Maybe instead of screwing aroung with an old engine that will simply develop another fault in the near future maybe its time to bite the bullet and get a new one.
Knot at Work posted 04-21-2010 10:05 PM ET (US)
Tony,
Thanks. I am at the end of my service. I retire in the early summer.
Wised,
good point and one for later, but my motor has less than 300 hours on it.. low time for a Mercury. It has always been reliable.. the problem is the ethanol fuel forced down our throats (and Carbs).
I will keep my low hour Mercury and get the Carbs fixed. We'll see what happens next.
brisboats posted 04-22-2010 12:48 PM ET (US)
Knot, I went through the same with a 2000 year mercaha 50 hp 4 stroke last season. Did the complete rebuild right away replacing several of the fuel lines. My cost with carb kits and lines was still over a few hundred dollars just in parts. Near the end of the season a rough running condition returned so we clean the carbs again and found corrosive damage in one of the bowls. The motor is history and going back to a two stroke. Yes ethanol sucks.
Brian

Knot at Work posted 04-22-2010 08:39 PM ET (US)
Got my 170 Montauk outta the shop... 1172.38 cents... YIKES!
4 new carb bowls, labor, fuel lines, mercury hat...
ready to get on the water this weekend.
Mech, says, DONT winterize, just run it like you stole it all year long...
brisboats posted 04-23-2010 10:04 AM ET (US)
That is really not a bad price, considering those fuel lines are so dang expensive. Last year we had a thread about this on here and I was keel dragged by another member for saying about a grand would be the going rate to do the job properly. At any rate it is just money, you will make more, enjoy the boat. Run it, run it, run it and you will be fine.
Brian
Marsh posted 04-23-2010 11:18 AM ET (US)
Sometimes I get lucky:
In search of more performance, sometime back I re-powered my 2004 Montauk's OEM carb'd Mercury 90 hp 4-stroke with a 2005 115 with fuel injection. When I splashed the boat last weekend, after sitting in my garage all winter, she fired right up the instant I turned the key, and has run like a top ever since. So, I don't reaaly know if I was lucky, or if the fuel had no ethanol (not required to post on the pump here in TN), or whether the EFI made the difference over carbs.
Anyhow, I'm no fan of ethanol, regardless.
MArsh
WisED posted 04-23-2010 08:19 PM ET (US)
Ouch less than 300 hours. I guess they, however,that they may have quite a little bit of idle time under their belt. A lot of people talk about engine hours without remembering that father time takes its toll whether the engine is used a lot or not. In fact,sometimes sitting idle is more damaging than outright use. The more the unit sits idle the more it's prone to varnish (from evaporation) and fuel separation issues which lead to corrosion. This is something my boat will definitely be prone to since I'm sure its not going to get many hours a year. Good luck with the repairs.
Knot at Work posted 04-24-2010 09:17 AM ET (US)
Wised, you nailed it.. my boat was in lay up for 3 years while I was stationed in Italy. So I didnt get a lot of use. probably caused a lot of my problems.. well the boat is fixed, bottom is painted, and my dock is built.. I plan to keep her in the water all summer and run her every chance I get.
thanks for the recommendations all.
Now off to Pirates Cove!
fno posted 04-24-2010 10:00 AM ET (US)
Knot, at the end of your season (if there will be one) go to the local airfield with a few plastic cans and fill up with aviation fuel. I haven't heard that they are putting any ethanol in them yet....
Barney posted 04-25-2010 12:41 PM ET (US)
Hey Knot, sent you an email. Try a couple of shots of starting fluid. She'll crank. Jim
Knot at Work posted 04-25-2010 08:05 PM ET (US)
Brain, thanks for the info.
Jim, email received and returned. Hello old friend!
whaler1234 posted 05-20-2010 06:01 PM ET (US)
After 2 carb rebuilds, I've had my fair share of fuel related problems on my '04 170.
Just this past weekend I filled up with non-ethanol 92 octane fuel for the first time. I'm not sure when the trend started, but I'm seeing all the harbors in HI carry it now.
No more ethanol for me...
whaler1234 posted 05-20-2010 06:15 PM ET (US)
I contemplated running the engine out of fuel for storage, but never have. My thought was that even if the fuel is run out of the motor, a bit of the fuel will remain in the bottom of each carb recess where the bowls sit. If that fuel were to sit for extended periods, I think it could cause problems (phase separation, water corrosion, varnish) as well. Many years ago, I rebuilt a few Mazda carburetors. Not having seen what the Keihin carbs look like internally, I'm not sure if this could happen here.
boatdryver posted 05-20-2010 09:33 PM ET (US)
I thought you could drain the carbs on these carbed motors if you were going to let them sit a several months.
JimL

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Author	Topic: Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE with Carburetors Will Not Start
Knot at Work	posted 04-09-2010 10:33 PM ET (US) It finally got me: my Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE with carburetors won't start for the season opening. [I] noticed water in the filter separator and drained [the water] before starting. [I] tried to pump the bulb. [I] got a little [pressure] but not a lot of pressure. [The 90-HP Mercury FOURSTROKE outboard] will not turn over. [I] went through the trouble : --replaced the bulb and tank to engine fuel line --drained tanks and replaced with star tron treated fuel--drained carbs --had fuel line pieces (chunks) in my filter bowl. --Ethanol fuel (oh yea) --plugs are good. --getting Fuel to Carbs --looked at the Fuel Extender Ignition pugs they are good --battery charged --can't get engine to stay running with engine start. [I] have to tear down carbs, huh?
Knot at Work	posted 04-09-2010 10:40 PM ET (US) And yea it has been a long time since posting
WT	posted 04-09-2010 11:57 PM ET (US) My dealer cleaned and rebuilt my carbs of my 2004 170 Montauk twice from when I bought the boat March 2004 and February 2007. I had to change my fuel lines also. The liner inside the fuel line collapsed causing a restriction in fuel flow. A few years ago at a very crowed ramp my boat wouldn't start. I realized the shifter was not in neutral. Ooooops. :-) Good luck, Warren
number9	posted 04-10-2010 12:12 AM ET (US) Likely a carb rebuil and disassembly cleaning unless you are lucky. Yamaha recommends removing all rubber and plastic parts and soaking overnight in carb cleaner. When they say cleaner they mean the caustic carb and parts cleaner re-builders use not generic spay carb cleaner. The stuff in the gallon can with the the dip basket, not available in all states. To clean out fine passesges they recommend using a single strand of multi-strand copper wire to prevent damage. Good luck.
MosslandingJoe	posted 04-11-2010 11:42 AM ET (US) knot: I have a 2004 170 with a 90 HP four-cycle that has carburetors, so I get concerned when I read posts like yours. Did you leave the fuel in the system last time you ran the boat? What type of gas were you running? What grade? How many hours do you have on the motor? Did you stabilize the fuel last time you ran the motor? Do you have only the stock fuel filter? There have been previous discussions concerning the deterioration of the fuel lines. For some reason the silver fuel lines seem to have reacted the worst to ethanol based fuel. Is the silver one the one you have? I hate to think that tear down and rebuild is an inevitable result of the design, as that is expensive. But moreso because carburetor technology has a long history of reliable usage. I know these carburetors have very [small diameter] passages, but still they should give a long and dependable life. I'm not trying to say that we the users are responsible for problems they develop but there should at least be a method by which we could ameliorate the [problems with carburetors]. So far running only Chevron mid grade with Techron, stabilizing every tank of fuel, and running the motor out of fuel during the flush period every time has prevented this problem for me. I also have two fuel filters and never store fuel in the tanks for any period of time; that gas gets transfered to one of my cars. But I would like to hear other suggestions as well. Best of Luck and let us know. Joe
number9	posted 04-11-2010 02:48 PM ET (US) I've considered rigging up a carburetor bowl drain manifold on my four cylinder.
Knot at Work	posted 04-12-2010 09:04 AM ET (US) Thanks all. Thanks also to John S who got farther than I was a few days ago. I received an email suggesting I mix Sea Foam with small amount of Gasoline and work into Fuel system (filter and hoses and lines and carbs). Prior to this recommendation, I was at wits end. I was using Gumout and spraying into the air intake to get some fuel to carbs to try to get them to burn this crap out. Engine would stutter and stop. No Fuel was going to my Plugs but was getting into the carbs. I suspect Varnish on the Jets and passages... Worked the sea foam in on Saturday and got the engine to stay running for a short duration. Let it sit overnight after running through Extenders and carbs and flue line and filter. Sunday morning got it to turn over and run on its own for 15 minutes. Then rinse repeat.. IDle is not ideal but she continues to make progress.... will let you know if I get her up and running enough to try a launch. Alternative is to pull the carbs. KAW
Knot at Work	posted 04-12-2010 09:10 AM ET (US) Moss, to answer your question. I had an [problem] with low speed idle last year that required a carburetor passage unclog on Carburetor #3. Cost me $500 and was fine for three months. I ran my motor dry and filter dry in November 2009. I did not drain the carburetor bowls. I will now start to do that if I lay up for a month or so. I run what fuel I can get. usually mid-grade fuel but lately all has 10-percent ethanol. My motor is LOW hours as I was over seas for three of the seven years I owned it. I have approx 270 hours on my motor. Prior to the last run out, I did use Stabil Marine and flushed it out and let it run through the filter before fuel starve. I planned on replacing my stock filter at the start of this season and did exactly that. I drained the fuel bowl which had half full of fuel that was mostly water. I suspect that I have severe varnish in my carburetors.
Knot at Work	posted 04-12-2010 09:12 AM ET (US) Moss, also I have the silver fuel line that goes from the bulb to the engine. The new one I have on is still silver but lacks the interior brown liner the old had. Supposed to me ethanol resistante.
Knot at Work	posted 04-12-2010 10:49 PM ET (US) Surrendered. Took it into the local Mercury mechanic. Mechanic said my Mercury, er Yamaha will be up in running in a week or so. He charges $95 an hour for labor for those that are interested. OUCH
WT	posted 04-12-2010 11:11 PM ET (US) The Boston Whaler dealer in Northern California charges $110/hour for labor. :-O
Ridge Runner	posted 04-15-2010 07:39 PM ET (US) I have a 2005 Yamaha 50HP carburetor two-cycle with only about 100 hours. I always treat the fuel, run dry and winterized. Went to start it in the spring. and it would not start. The Yamaha only ran on bursts of starting fluid. Took it to a dealer all the carburetors. Three needed to be rebuilt. I talked to the service manager for a long time and he told me unless unless you run dry and then drain the bowls you run the risk of fuel in the carburetors phase separting. I now drain the bowls if the motor is not going to be run for a month or more. I have had no [problems].
Knot at Work	posted 04-15-2010 09:42 PM ET (US) Well, my Mercury Shop called me. Not good. Turns out the carburetor bowls are varnished and corroded from the ethanol and water. It started a corrosion circuit. and it is threatening the carburetors. One carburetor bowl is eaten through. I will have pictures in a weak when I pick the boat up. The plan is to now replace each carburetor bowl, float and needle and rebuild the carburetors after cleaning out. Cost is $1,100 so far. New carburetor costs $550 so that option is out. Mercury repair guy's advice was to NOT drain the bowls but simply run the motor each month and keep the fluids moving through the carburetors. Damn ETHANOL!
bobgilsp	posted 04-16-2010 11:19 PM ET (US) The carburetors on Japanese four-cycle engines are often motorcycle carbs--Mikuna or Keihin. So, motorcycle mechanics might be able to rebuild them for you. A couple of years ago, I had good luck cleaning the varnish out of the four Keihin carburetors on my Honda BF90. Had to remove the entire intake manifold as a unit. Could then remove each carburetor in turn from the stack. Was able to separate the bowl on each without harming the gasket. Each float and needle cleaned up nicely, soaking in carburetor solvent. Had to use AeroKroil to loosen some of the brass jet screws. Put all of them to soaking in solvent. Came nice and clean. Reassembled without damaging anything, so I didn't have to replace a single part. Got all four into the stack, checked the enrichment valve,and& reattached manifold assembly to engine. It ran like new. I've attempted to get all gasahol out when I winterize, but last Spring I also put SeaFoam in my water-fuel separator when I first fired it up. After smoking, sputtering, and refusing to idle, it ran like a champ.
wezie	posted 04-17-2010 09:33 AM ET (US) Sorry the cleaner did not get you farther. The corrosion is something new to me. I do believe this is just the tip of the alcohol garbage fuel debacle; being caused by the FFG. At any cost, lets push this off on the people. Good Luck!!
elaelap	posted 04-21-2010 12:57 PM ET (US) Good to hear from you again, knots, even though it's concerning this unpleasant problem. Welcome home safe and sound! Tony
WisED	posted 04-21-2010 02:12 PM ET (US) If price is not an obstacle, why not simply replace the engine? Yes, the cost will be significant, but the new 4 stroke fuel injected engines make old carburators seem like they are from the stone age. Much better efficiency, much less maintenance, and superbly better reliability, plus of course, much better for the environment. Maybe instead of screwing aroung with an old engine that will simply develop another fault in the near future maybe its time to bite the bullet and get a new one.
Knot at Work	posted 04-21-2010 10:05 PM ET (US) Tony, Thanks. I am at the end of my service. I retire in the early summer. Wised, good point and one for later, but my motor has less than 300 hours on it.. low time for a Mercury. It has always been reliable.. the problem is the ethanol fuel forced down our throats (and Carbs). I will keep my low hour Mercury and get the Carbs fixed. We'll see what happens next.
brisboats	posted 04-22-2010 12:48 PM ET (US) Knot, I went through the same with a 2000 year mercaha 50 hp 4 stroke last season. Did the complete rebuild right away replacing several of the fuel lines. My cost with carb kits and lines was still over a few hundred dollars just in parts. Near the end of the season a rough running condition returned so we clean the carbs again and found corrosive damage in one of the bowls. The motor is history and going back to a two stroke. Yes ethanol sucks. Brian
Knot at Work	posted 04-22-2010 08:39 PM ET (US) Got my 170 Montauk outta the shop... 1172.38 cents... YIKES! 4 new carb bowls, labor, fuel lines, mercury hat... ready to get on the water this weekend. Mech, says, DONT winterize, just run it like you stole it all year long...
brisboats	posted 04-23-2010 10:04 AM ET (US) That is really not a bad price, considering those fuel lines are so dang expensive. Last year we had a thread about this on here and I was keel dragged by another member for saying about a grand would be the going rate to do the job properly. At any rate it is just money, you will make more, enjoy the boat. Run it, run it, run it and you will be fine. Brian
Marsh	posted 04-23-2010 11:18 AM ET (US) Sometimes I get lucky: In search of more performance, sometime back I re-powered my 2004 Montauk's OEM carb'd Mercury 90 hp 4-stroke with a 2005 115 with fuel injection. When I splashed the boat last weekend, after sitting in my garage all winter, she fired right up the instant I turned the key, and has run like a top ever since. So, I don't reaaly know if I was lucky, or if the fuel had no ethanol (not required to post on the pump here in TN), or whether the EFI made the difference over carbs. Anyhow, I'm no fan of ethanol, regardless. MArsh
WisED	posted 04-23-2010 08:19 PM ET (US) Ouch less than 300 hours. I guess they, however,that they may have quite a little bit of idle time under their belt. A lot of people talk about engine hours without remembering that father time takes its toll whether the engine is used a lot or not. In fact,sometimes sitting idle is more damaging than outright use. The more the unit sits idle the more it's prone to varnish (from evaporation) and fuel separation issues which lead to corrosion. This is something my boat will definitely be prone to since I'm sure its not going to get many hours a year. Good luck with the repairs.
Knot at Work	posted 04-24-2010 09:17 AM ET (US) Wised, you nailed it.. my boat was in lay up for 3 years while I was stationed in Italy. So I didnt get a lot of use. probably caused a lot of my problems.. well the boat is fixed, bottom is painted, and my dock is built.. I plan to keep her in the water all summer and run her every chance I get. thanks for the recommendations all. Now off to Pirates Cove!
fno	posted 04-24-2010 10:00 AM ET (US) Knot, at the end of your season (if there will be one) go to the local airfield with a few plastic cans and fill up with aviation fuel. I haven't heard that they are putting any ethanol in them yet....
Barney	posted 04-25-2010 12:41 PM ET (US) Hey Knot, sent you an email. Try a couple of shots of starting fluid. She'll crank. Jim
Knot at Work	posted 04-25-2010 08:05 PM ET (US) Brain, thanks for the info. Jim, email received and returned. Hello old friend!
whaler1234	posted 05-20-2010 06:01 PM ET (US) After 2 carb rebuilds, I've had my fair share of fuel related problems on my '04 170. Just this past weekend I filled up with non-ethanol 92 octane fuel for the first time. I'm not sure when the trend started, but I'm seeing all the harbors in HI carry it now. No more ethanol for me...
whaler1234	posted 05-20-2010 06:15 PM ET (US) I contemplated running the engine out of fuel for storage, but never have. My thought was that even if the fuel is run out of the motor, a bit of the fuel will remain in the bottom of each carb recess where the bowls sit. If that fuel were to sit for extended periods, I think it could cause problems (phase separation, water corrosion, varnish) as well. Many years ago, I rebuilt a few Mazda carburetors. Not having seen what the Keihin carbs look like internally, I'm not sure if this could happen here.
boatdryver	posted 05-20-2010 09:33 PM ET (US) I thought you could drain the carbs on these carbed motors if you were going to let them sit a several months. JimL