posted 03-11-2006 11:22 PM ET (US)        

The dealer has been aware of the problem and has made several attempts to fix it. Last fall [the dealer/Mercury?] revealed that there has been a problem with a few boats. This winter the dealer had two gear shifts built to bluepint specs as replacements to fix the problem. I called the dealer on March 10, 2006, and I was told that [the dealer/Mercury?] did not fix the problem and that my boat and two others would be replaced with new designed Mercury engines. This is to happen sometime in April 2006.

This is my first boat. I bought it for its reputation. My wife and kids have not been able to operate the boat because its to dangerous when docking, sking, tubing, etc. I have nothing in writing that the the boat is getting fixed or when it will be ready. I purchased the boat at Chesapeake Whaler Towne in Annapolis, Maryland. I can't say enough about how much they have helped and kept me informed. I know they are doing everything they can, but I am sure they are getting their orders from Mercury, Boston Whaler, or Brunswick.

posted 03-12-2006 09:17 AM ET (US)            

You purchased a defective Mercury outboard. You are being offered the remedy of receiving a new outboard to replace the defective one. The replacement motor will be a newer design, a newer model, and a newer model year.

I would accept this remedy, if it solves the original problem, the poor shifting.

Re the new motor: if the new motor is one of the new "baby Verado" power head motors, there has been some speculation that the gear case on that motor will be the same as the one on the motor you currently have. That is not to say it won't solve the problem.

posted 03-12-2006 07:52 PM ET (US)            

But this ONLY happens when the motor is cold, after first starting up. After a short warm up, it shifts as smooth as can be. But let me tell ya: that first shift or two after backing off the trailer is very, very tricky. I have found that the most prudent thing to do after backing off my trailer, is to continue backing for 30-45 seconds. No problem as long as the launch area is clear. But in heavy traffic, it gets VERY interesting when one cannot reliably shift into neutral.

I have not consulted with my dealer; perhaps I should, in light of your woes, cplosko.

posted 03-13-2006 10:02 AM ET (US)            

The biggest difference I found on this engine (with respect to shifting) compared to all other outboards I have used is that there is no detent on the shifter. The shifter freely moves between forward, neutral, and reverse with no latch, button, or other locking device. I don't know whether this has become the "commonly accepted" method of late, but I find it to be a poor design for the following reasons:

1) When attempting to shift into neutral, it is very easy to pass right by and engage the opposite gear. I did this quite often during my first season, often at the most awkward moments, but now that I've developed a feel for the shifter, it happens infrequently. My guest skippers have this problem all the time.

2) It is easy to partially engage the gears. I have read the various accounts of "whining" and "grinding" in neutral with these engines, and I sometimes experience the same thing. I have always been able to eliminate it by twiddling with the neutral position on the shift lever, or by engaging forward and then returning to neutral. This is not simply a matter of adjusting the cable(s), since there is no positively defined neutral position on the shifter.

3) On two occasions, the engine has spontaneously shifted from neutral into reverse. This happened once while I was standing at the console, and I wondered whether I had accidently bumped the lever. The second time, however, the boat was alongside the dock and I was standing in the stern handling a line. The moral of that story is do not have swimmers at the stern with the engine running.

With respect to operating when cold, the engine does seem bit more sluggish to shift when cold. I have operated this engine at air temperatures as low as 24 deg. F in brackish water at 30 deg. F without significant problems. This was using standard OEM gearcase lube and 5W-30 synthetic crankcase oil; the oil pressure buzzer sounds for a few seconds until the pressure comes up.

posted 03-13-2006 06:11 PM ET (US)            

FISHNFF

posted 03-13-2006 10:50 PM ET (US)            

In all other respects, I've had about 250 hours of smooth, quiet, efficient, flawless performance from the 115 4-stroke.

-Bob

posted 03-14-2006 12:03 PM ET (US)            

My 2005 170 has the hard to perceive nuetral and I too have over shot nuetral to find myself in reverse a few times.

I was under the impression that this was a "quirk" and that even if the cables are adjusted correctly, it will still be present.

Additionally, I was told to shift quickly and decisively into reverse and forward to avoide the "grinding". I still get the big "think" from the heavy prop.

I have gotten better at shifting but it is still annoying and my buddy, who had a piece of junk trihull, always ribs me about the money I spent on a whaler and the lousy shifting capabilities of this setup. His trihull shifted effortlessly.

Oh well.

All the best,

posted 03-14-2006 01:03 PM ET (US)            

I'm doing better after 2 months of practice.

The shifter was a big reason that I was reluctant to switch over from Yamaha to Merc. I loved the shifting on my last 3 Yamaha powered Whalers. Big difference there.

posted 03-18-2006 11:01 AM ET (US)            

This will cause some people not to want to purchase Boston Whalers.

This blog is a real public service when it enlightens people about info like this. You can bet the manufacturer reads it, and maybe they will take appropriate action.

posted 03-18-2006 11:10 AM ET (US)            

--The motor itself. This is the conclusion from the originator of this discussion and apparently coincides with the dealer and manufacturer's assessment. To cure the problem they are replacing his motor. This is the most expensive remedy.

--The shift cables. Several suggest the problem can be remedied by replacing the shift cables with ones having better performance. This is an inexpensive remedy.

--The throttle and shift controls. The controls and their lack of a built-in mechanical detent to assist in locating the neutral shift position are cited as the source of the problem. This remedy is more expensive than new cables, but much cheaper than a new engine.

--The adjustment of the linkage. Improper adjustment of the shift linkage has also been cited as the source of this problem. This is least expensive remedy.

posted 03-20-2006 04:20 AM ET (US)            

Erik