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| Author | Topic: New trailer for my Outrage 22 Cuddy |
| andygere |
This winter, I started refurbishing my old galvanized EZ Loader trailer. It had served me well, but was showing it's age. All the bunk supports were heavily rusted, and were decayed to a point that I no longer trusted them. The same was true for the 4 bunk boards. The hubs on the Kodiak disc brakes were showing some rust, and the old Chrome Bearing Buddies were shot. The Wesbar lights were getting finicky, and the fasteners holding them on were rusted solid. It was looking like quite a project, and I got going on it in earnest. I purchased and installed all new galvanized bunk supports, using all new stainless steel U-bolts and pivot bolts. The old supports were tack welded on, and I had to grind them off, and then recoat the cross members with several layers of cold galvanizing. I installed new LED lights with new wiring end to end. All new fir bunk boards with new carpet were installed, carefully measured to match the fit of the originals. I pulled each wheel, and wire brushed the exposed portion of the rotor/ hubs, and coated them with cold galvanizing. I installed new Stainless Steel Bearing Buddies. Next, I called my tire shop for a quote on new tires, and after tax I was looking at nearly another $500. The springs and axles were original, and I wondered how much life was left in them. Although I had put a lot of sweat equity into the trailer, I had kept the expense to a minimum, and decided I was done throwing good money after bad, and began shopping for a new trailer. Here's a few photos of my old one after the restoration. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/EZ%20Loader%20Trailer/ IMG_1565_zps1cd92e6b.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/EZ%20Loader%20Trailer/ IMG_1573_zpsefbec091.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/EZ%20Loader%20Trailer/ IMG_1570_zpsbe2e8a42.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/EZ%20Loader%20Trailer/ IMG_1567_zpsb51a2545.jpg After combing the internet and evaluating the limited choices locally, I narrowed it down to 2 manufacturers. The one closer to me gave me ballpark pricing on a galvanized steel bunk trailer, and I nearly fell off my chair. The other phoned me within an hour or two of my e-mail inquiry, and provided me with an itemized written quote on an aluminum bunk trailer, at what I think is a very fair price. He also offered me a very reasonable trade in value for my current trailer, which had also attracted some local interest. Initially, I was concerned about ordering a trailer from a dealer over 300 miles away, but that subsided when the owner offered to personally deliver the trailer to me in Santa Cruz, and make any necessary adjustments on the spot. He had the design specifications from Whaler, and had access to an Outrage 22 nearby to verify measurements if necessary. My trailer was delivered this week by Wayne Redomond, the owner of West Coast Trailers, and I am extremely pleased with the quality, fit and especially the service. The trailer is a 7000 pound aluminum I-beam style, with UFP torsion axles, UFP aluminum/stainless disc brakes on all 4 wheels, UFP low profile surge coupler, LED lighting, diamond plate load bearing fenders, radial tires and Vault hubs. All fasteners are stainless steel, and I opted for a spare tire and mount, mounted to a hub/rotor/bearing assembly. It has a DL 2-speed winch, DL heavy duty jack, forward bunk boards and urethane bow stop. The initial fit was quite good, buy Wayne took his time and made some minor adjustments to the winch stand location and side guides, and we relaunched the boat and retrieved it a few times to get it all dialed in. Wayne also spent a great deal of time going over all the systems and components, and helped me hitch it up to my tow vehicle. He took my old trailer in trade, so some new owner will get the benefit of the refurbishing work I had completed. Here are a few snapshots of my boat on the new trailer. The boat is filthy because it stayed in the water all winter while I worked on the old trailer. Time for some spring cleaning! Photos of the new trailer: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/andygere/library/ New%20Aluminum%20Trailer I give West Coast Trailers my strongest recommendation. My trailer was exactly as promised, it was on time, and the customer service throughout the buying process was outstanding. http://www.westcoasttrailers.com/ I'm also really impressed with the UFP trailer components used by WCT throughout this trailer. They are an integrated system, and are really well designed and made. http://www.ufpnet.com/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx Finally, thanks to Jeff Rohlfing for providing some great advice on boat trailers in general, and on specifying a custom aluminum one in particular. |
| jimh |
Thanks for the excellent article and photographs. I have noticed that many trailer manufacturers have begun to use the UFP surge coupler and brake systems. Let us know how they work for you. And, I agree--it is possible to spend a lot of money refurbishing a trailer. The trailer manufacturers must be able to buy the basic components--the tires, the brakes, the couplers, and so on--at much better prices than an individual can buy them. |
| jimh |
I followed the link to UFP (see above) and looked at their surge brake couplers. The model CA-50 looks like the one on Andy's trailer. That coupler is only rated for 5,000-lbs. I have found that my boat and trailer weigh about 5,600-lbs, so that coupler would not be appropriate. What model UFP coupler is used on the new trailer? What is the combined boat and trailer weight? |
| andygere |
The coupler installed on my trailer is rated at 7000 lbs. I like the low profile design, and in-line configuration of the surge piston. |
| andygere |
I have not weighed my boat on the new trailer, but the trailer is several hundred pounds lighter than my steel trailer. I estimate the total weight to be in the 5200 pound range. All of the components are designed for 7000 pounds. |
| andygere |
Correction, the actuator is model A-60, rated at 7500 lbs. |
| tmann45 |
Nice looking trailer. In this picture http://smg.photobucket.com/user/andygere/media/New%20Aluminum%20Trailer/ P5131087_zpsb3b12fd6.jpg.html?sort=6&o=6 it looks like you have two hoses going to the brake caliper. If this is so, what is the second hose for? |
| littleblue |
Wow, looks great Andy! More importantly it sounds like the service level you received was fantastic. Extra points there. Are you able to give pricing? I'm curious to know what the difference between it and the Pacific I got last summer, which I apparently had received a great price on. Also, do you have brakes on both axles? My trailer is also rated to 7,000 lbs (GVWR) and I was told it was mandatory to have the brakes on both axles. I thought it was a little much for the 22...wanted to take a set off to have for parts/replacement down the road but was told that by law they were not allowed to remove it. On the plus side, it stops very well. I would imagine your trailer to be lighter than mine as well. |
| andygere |
The base price for the trailer was $4,800, and that included everything except the spare tire and mount with bearings/hub/rotor, upgrade to all stainless fasteners and upgrade to the Vault hub lubrication system. These options were all reasonably priced, and by my estimation at or below retail for the parts alone. I have brakes on both axles, and wouldn't have it any other way. It is a legal requirement for a trailer at this capacity. The published weight of the trailer is 800 lbs. |
| andygere |
tmann45, I had to look twice at that photo. There is only one line going into the caliper, what is seen is a loop in the line that allows for travel of the suspension. |
| andygere |
Well, I looked at all 4 calipers, and here's what I learned: Instead of the typical "T" block at each wheel, there is a "V" block located at each caliper, with one brake line going in, and another going out. Hydraulic pressure is transferred to the adjacent wheel on the outgoing leg of the brake line. The right rear has a plug in the other side of the "V" since it's the last caliper in the system. It's a much cleaner installation than the "T" block style. |
| Jeff |
Andy, The trailer looks like it turned out great and it sounds like you got some great service too. Like when we had our trailer custom built, it seems the smaller custom trailer companies give much more, care, attention to detail and fit than just the standard "off the shelve" premade trailer dealers do. Congrats! |
| L H G |
Andy - the trailer looks great. Don't forget the McGard lug nuts! But I have got to ask - why 7000# capacity for a 22' boat. I figure you have: 2,300-lbs boat (according to Whaler's specs) ------- 4,100-lbs It would seem 4,500 to 5,000-lbs trailer would be all that is needed, would have less weight, less expense, smaller size. Just curious as to why went so heavy. |
| andygere |
The trailer frame is the same for several trailers in the 4,400 to 7,000-lbs range. Some of the lower load ranges come through with 13" wheels and leaf springs. In a salt water environment, steel leaf springs have a short life. I wanted torsion axles, and the UFP integrated brakes-hubs-axles are tied to the 3,750-lbs axle. The suspension is so much smoother that the leaf springs on my old trailer, I have no doubt whatsoever that I am treating my boat to a much kinder ride. It's really apples and oranges comparing a similar spring rate of a torsion axle vs. a leaf spring axle. At the end of the day, I worked with a very good custom trailer company to specify and build a durable, functional and long lasting trailer that will tow easily and treat my boat well. He's a Whaler owner/enthusiast himself, and has a great deal of experience that I took advantage of. I'm not hung up on having over spec'ed it or over payed for it because I didn't. It's the correct length, I have minimal overhang from the trailer frame and it tows very nicely. A key thing to keep in mind is that I have to tow over an 1,800 foot elevation pass to get just about anywhere. This is a lot different than towing in the flatlands of the midwest, and believe me, when you need to make a hard braking maneuver on Highway 17, you will be glad to have a trailer rated comfortably above the load it's carrying. |
| Buckda |
Andy - Looks like a great trailer. You will love the spindle lube hubs and the torsion axle suspension. I couldn't believe how smoothly the trailer under my 25 tows and it's rated to 8,000-lbs but the ride is very smooth and you can see those torsion axles working over the bumps in your mirrors while the boat just sits back there nice and smooth. I am with you 100 percent on how well those things work. Congrats on the new acquisition. Seems like you now have your boat rig pretty dialed in for the next 10 years or so. |
| jimh |
Andy--I really like the trailer you selected. I think the torsion axles are very interesting. The only components on my 21-year-old trailer that shows their age are the steel leaf springs--and that's on a trailer that is mostly all freshwater use. I think going to torsion suspension is a good idea. Do the torsion axles have an adjustment feature? I believe that on some of the torsion axles you can set them for a certain amount of ride height under load. In this way you can tune the torsion axle to the actual load it is carrying, giving you the optimum range of motion. I would not worry about LHG comments about the trailer rating being too high. Let me explain why. I drive around all the time in my Suburban with nothing in it except me. Under those conditions the loading on the axles and suspension is very light, just a fraction of the rated weight. Then I hitch my trailer to my Suburban, fill the truck with gear, top off the 45-gallon tank, and carry a passenger. Then the Suburban is just about at the maximum rating for the suspension, particularly on the rear axle. I really do not find that the ride when lightly loaded is particularly awful. I mean, I don't experience any unusual jarring motion or hard landings when lightly loaded. Now when I am loaded right to the maximum rating, I do find that the ride changes--it is much more harsh. Any big road bump might bottom out the suspension. The ride is much better when the suspension is loaded below its maximum. This experience seems to be completely opposite what LHG suggests. LHG seems to suggest you have to size the trailer to exactly match the load at its maximum rating. My experience with my truck tells me that gives the worst ride, and I don't think that is good advice. Also, you have only to compare LHG's trailer to the one that Boston Whaler provides on their 25-foot GUARDIAN boats. Those Boston Whaler trailers are built like tanks. I don't know where Boston Whaler was supposed to have published some formula about trailer load weight compared to hull weight, but if you go by their own example, they provide trailers that are probably rated over 8,000-lbs for a 25-foot boat. Andy--I think you went the right way: get a trailer that is comfortably higher in weight load rating than the actual load. You will have some headroom in the suspension. And, as we know, boats always weight more than you think. I also like the clean arrangement of the UFP surge coupler. I have a DICO coupler, and while it has been durable and reliable, it looks like a kludge. The UFP design is much neater. The DICO has all kinds of appendages sticking out, and you can always catch your leg on them when trying to step over the trailer. I have to say, however, that the DICO is a beast of a coupler. I hope the UFP is the same. Its design is so clean--we all know how important good design can be--that it just enhances the appearance of the trailer. It looks so clean. |
| jimh |
Andy--I recommend you take your boat-trailer rig to a certified scale and have it weighed. This will be the best $10 you ever spend. I have done this several times. I describe the process in Boat Weight from Certified Scale Also, I think our boats are probably similar in weight. My trailer is rated for 6,800-lbs gross vehicle weight. From my measurements I found that my normal load trailer weight was 5,600-lbs. That puts the normal load on my trailer at about 82-percent of maximum. I think that is a good spot. There is about 18-percent headroom. I cannot imagine using a trailer with less rating. The load on the axles will be the gross trailer weight minus the tongue weight. In my case the tongue weight was rather high, about 460-lbs. That puts the axle weight at around 2,600-lbs per axle. If there were any component for which I would want plenty of extra margin, it would be the axle. I think my axles are rated 3,500-lbs. That means the axles and suspension are running about 75-percent of capacity--that sounds good to me. Why would it be an advantage to load them higher? I can't see a benefit, other than going cheap on the trailer. |
| andygere |
Dave, I had the same experience as I towed the boat home on the new trailer: looking at the wheels in my mirrors watching them suck up the bumps of every pavement patch on the road while the boat and trailer frame didn't move or jar at all. My other observation was how quiet it was. There was no noise whatsoever coming from the trailer. I couldn't get over the difference in noise from my old trailer, which seemed to rattle and squeak over every bump. The hub system on my trailer is a bit different than spindle lube. It's called the Vault, and it's also made by UFP. It's a sealed system that uses a hybrid grease-oil lubricant. Here's what the marketing literature says: The VAULT “Hybrid Lubrication system” Jim, I was also impressed with the clean design of the UFP coupler. I had a Tiedown Engineering model on my old trailer that worked quite well, but was also obtrusive and loaded with sharp edges ready to nick your feet as you tip toe down the trailer frame after loading the boat. I'll post an update on it's performance after I've towed the boat a few hundred miles. The torsion axles do have some adjustment in that the spindle arms attach to the axle on a spline, and the placement of that arm on the spline can be changed to adjust ride height and pre-load of the axle. The other nice thing is that it's a simple part that can be removed with a single bolt. If you have bearing failure that ruins the surface of the spindle, a new one can be easily bolted on, even on the side of the road. I think I'm going to order a spare to carry around, which will leave me with a fully redundant wheel, bearing, rotor and axle system. It's a $45 part, making it an easy choice to carry a spare. http://www.easternmarine.com/ ufp-trailing-arm-replacement-torsion-spindle-36234/ |
| jimh |
Andy--That is a fantastic feature for the torsion axle design. I love that idea. |
| Chuck Tribolet |
Andy: How many rollers? I'm negotiating with Wayne for a new trailer for Black Dog, and he proposed only three rollers. I think there should be more under a classic Montauk. And what would be really cool is if the spare tire carrier Chuck |
| jimh |
Chuck--That is an excellent idea! |
| divtruk |
Chuck, The trailer I have under my Mountauk is from West Coast Trailers as well. You can see it in this posting. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/020764.html I went with a wider trailer so the hull sits down between the fenders. Makes it so I don't have to back as far down the ramp to float it off the trailer. The trailer is actually made by Karavan. Chip |
| L H G |
The 2011 2000# Continental keel roller trailer under my Montauk has 4 Stoltz rollers on SS shafts, 3-12's and one 8. Cost $1200 with a galvanized all welded steel channel frame. The boat launches and retrieves so easily a child can wind it up. Double keel rollers on the cross members are not needed with a Montauk and Stoltz rollers. |
| Peter |
Alumimum float-on style trailers have become very popular around here. In as much as I really liked the Cox galvanized steel tilting frame trailer that my first Outrage 18 sat on, now that I have had two aluminum float-on style trailers, I will never go back to a galvanized steel channel frame trailer. The aluminum float-on trailer I had with the second Outrage 18 had torsion axles. They were great. If I were to order a trailer, I would pick the torsion axle option over leaf springs. |
| andygere |
Chuck, My trailer has no rollers. The boat floats on to the bunks, and the bow self-centers on the forward V bunks. My old trailer only had 2 rollers, one at the extreme aft end, and the other all the way forward near the winch stand. Despite using stainless steel shafts, neither one rolled particularly well. |
| Frank O |
Great-looking trailer. Nice to know about the manufacturer, as it's local to me and would be very convenient to deal with. This spring I sold my mid-1990s Loadmaster trailer to a buddy. Since I leave the boat in the water and it was costing me a fair amount to store the trailer, I figured that in a few years I'll have saved enough to buy a new trailer, if I need one. I worked out a deal with the buddy to borrow back my old trailer once a year when I need to pull the boat for annual maintenance. |
| andygere |
Frank, that's a great arrangement. |
| Chuck Tribolet |
Having broken several leaf springs over the years, I'm going with the torsion axles. And one launch ramp I use really sucks. The top part is too steep, the bottom part not steep enought, and the ramp drops off straight down at the zero tide line. But the diving is fantastic. So I want rollers.
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| RobertRibley |
Hey Andy - Great looking trailer. It really goes nice with your Outrage. I really like the I-beam construction, very strong. Doing a lot of hauling myself, I understand the need for braking power, especially on mountainous roads in California. Congrats on a good choice. Robert |
| andygere |
Chuck, I know the ramp, and rollers are a good call for that application. Heck, I wouldn't really even call it a ramp, it's more like a narrow apron at the edge of the cove. I also get why you want to go there, beautiful spot. |
| Chuck Tribolet |
I just ordered a new trailer for my Montauk from West Coast Trailers. Mine will have rollers, no brakes, and a swing away tongue. Chuck |
| andygere |
Chuck, that sounds like a great setup. Wayne gave me great service, and I'm really happy with my new trailer. |
| Binkster |
Aluminum I beam trailers with torsion axles are very commen in Florida. Its the only way to go with a large boat. Difference being, they are all float on/drive on trailers, no winch. I've never seen one with a winch before. rich |
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