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Author Topic:   Boston Whaler 27 Full Cabin
nickdemco posted 12-19-2014 10:39 PM ET (US)   Profile for nickdemco   Send Email to nickdemco  
I have moved ahead with the process [from looking at Whaler 25 WALKAROUND as discussed earlier] and am now potentially buying a 1989 Boston Whaler 27 Full Cabin. I would be using this boat for cruising and salmon fishing in the pacific Northwest. The boat is powered with 2005 Mercury Optimax 225hp engines with approx 900-hrs on them. I would add a 15-HP Mercury pro-kicker trolling motor on an aluminum bracket on the Whaler Drive. Please check out the photos below and let me know your thoughts.

jimh posted 12-19-2014 11:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The pictures look good.
Buoy posted 12-19-2014 11:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buoy  Send Email to Buoy     
That's a great looking helm. What's in the center? GPS/Depth Finder?
cvyarb posted 12-20-2014 11:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
Good looking boat, it seems you're checking the hull and Whaler Drive for structural integrity, and that would be my biggest recommendation. I paid to have a survey done to make sure everything was sound before beginning to fix up my father's old boat.

I will say it looks very clean, so that's a great thing. The placement of oil for the 2 strokes is not original (factory placed them under driver helm chair), and I'm not sure I would want it exposed, but that's your call. I don't know as much about the reliability of Mercury outboards, but obviously factor in the life expectancy of twins with 900 hours.

Good luck, it will serve you well.

cvyarb posted 12-20-2014 11:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
Just an afterthought, but you might also want to look in the access hatch between the helm seats at the fresh water tank/heater, holding tank, and the front of all three fuel tanks (if optioned that way)just to check their condition.

I would also ask the seller whether it has the original tanks or replacements, and whether the fuel lines have been replaced. Just gives you an idea of what may need to be done later down the road.

Again though, it looks like a really, really nice boat.

Whaler27 posted 12-20-2014 05:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whaler27  Send Email to Whaler27     
Pretty clean looking boat.

Those oil tanks must be moved off the whaler drive , that location
makes no sense if your going outside a harbor or lake. They don't belong there. It makes me wonder about the owner and how the rest of the boat is rigged.

nickdemco posted 12-20-2014 10:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
hey guys thanks for the replies - could someone please post a pic of the proper mounting of the oil tanks on this model? I would hope to repower with modern 4strokes someday but would like to keep running these optimaxs for the remainder of their useful life.
cvyarb posted 12-20-2014 11:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
From the factory, the oil tanks were located under the driver side helm chair. The oil lines then went down through a hole in the deck and ran (if I remember correctly) down a starboard side groove/channel under the deck but before the starboard most stringer along with a large bundle of other wires.
jimh posted 12-20-2014 11:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
A picture is not really necessary. Oil tanks on any boat which has some sort enclosed space at the stern are mounted in the enclosed space to get them out of the weather. Oil tanks are only mounted out in the open on open transom boats where there is no enclosed space. On many open transom boats, if not too long, the oil tank is mounted in the center console to get it out of the weather, and a long hose run back to the engines

I have never seen a Boston Whaler boat with a Whaler Drive that had all that messy oil tank rigging and the oil tanks themselves set up on the Whaler Drive. The first modification to make is to clear them from the Whaler Drive.

cvyarb posted 12-20-2014 11:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
I don't have any pics, sorry. I could try an take one next time I'm at the boat but that will take some time and won't include pics of the lines under the deck.
jimh posted 12-22-2014 10:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
From the factory, the oil tanks were located ...

The Boston Whaler factory typically did not rig engines on its boats until quite recently. On older boats the dealer installed the outboard engines, and the dealer would perform the installation of the rigging.

Boston Whaler only recently began to require a mandatory purchase or tie-in sale of a Brunswick Mercury-brand outboard engine with their boats. On these newer boats, made after c.2000, you could say that elements of the rigging were "from the factory." But it is unclear to me that you could say that about c.1980 and c.1990 boats.

cvyarb posted 12-22-2014 11:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
That's a fair point. The access whole/panel through the pretty thick deck under the helm chair looks factory (sturdy, nice fit and finish, a fitting similar to other factory ones) and the only other BW 27 FC I've seen had it the same way, but that they were just similarly rigged by the respective dealers is entirely possible.

Maybe it can be inferred that BW suggested that as the place to mount them IF the holes were provided from the factory that way? For the OP's purposes, I'm not sure where else he could locate two rather large oil tanks, except under the cockpit/fishing area deck (and in that case only if the boat didn't have 3 fuel tanks), because the transom area is pretty full already in these boats.

Also, having spent time under the deck area of the helm, I wouldn't think that would be a convenient area either, but maybe there is a way to make it work well.

Regardless, OP, the tanks were located under the helm chair in at least two 27 FC's I've seen, including my late father's boat, and they work well. I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences and ideas, and that can be a starting point for relocating them if you purchase the boat.

Good luck and best wishes.

Jeff posted 12-22-2014 11:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
I agree with others, the boat really looks very well cared for and the pride in ownership shows throughout the vessel. It is likely one of the nicest one you will find. I would agree as well that the oil tanks should be moved into the stern storage areas / bulkheads and off the Whaler Drive bracket.
jimh posted 12-22-2014 03:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
On every Boston Whaler boat with a Whaler Drive that I have seen--and that is quite a few--the oil tanks are located in the stern under the stern deck in the enclosed area, but above the main cockpit deck level. Sometimes a remote filler is added so the tanks can be refilled from the deck level, much like adding fuel to the fuel tank.
cvyarb posted 12-22-2014 04:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
JimH, respectfully, how many of those were 27 FC's, that you were on personally?

With the end of three fuel tanks, three live well/storage areas, the batteries, batt. switches, fuel selectors, and fuel/water separators back there it is very, very tight. It can be theorized about infinitely, but I've been upside down in the space your referring to (on the exact year and model in question) pressure washing, replacing fuel lines, mounting batteries, etc. in the last two months.

OP, on the FC model, I have seen it under the helm chair twice. Maybe an owner will chime in that has a different set up, and maybe you can in fact make the transom can work (please follow up if so with pictures, I'd love to see), but at least you have some options.

Peter posted 12-22-2014 05:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
On my former Whaler 27 Whaler Drive (Not Full Cabin), the oil tanks were located in the storage compartment that supports the helm seat. The oil tank fills were on top of the compartment and accessible by swinging the helm seat up on its starboard side hinged track mount.

If the batteries are located in the stern transom area (between the transom and the bulkhead) as they were on my boat, there would be very little room for oil tanks in that space because the transom fish well takes up much of the space. Further, mounting the oil tanks in that area would obstruct access to the stern bilge drain, the bilge pump and the trim tab hydraulic pump among other things. Those oil tanks should be mounted "high and dry".

martyn1075 posted 12-22-2014 09:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for martyn1075  Send Email to martyn1075     
"Sometimes a remote filler is added so the tanks can be refilled from the deck level, much like adding fuel to the fuel tank."

Yes this is true and very handy option. If Nick plans on Four Strokes in the near future perhaps the current place will work out just fine for now. I do agree its still not the ideal situation to have them exposed the way they are. From owning one of these larger whalers with the same drive system salt is guaranteed to get up there in most situations and the sun combination with salt is a killer on the parts. Filling them up would be a bit awkward and if it spills everyone around will give you the death stare these days as oil streams out of the open drive thru holes causing a oil slick.

jimh posted 12-23-2014 05:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
From the first-hand accounts given above by owners of a 27 Full Cabin, the boat must have a rather limited amount of space at the stern. Perhaps that is what led to those oil tanks being put out in the weather on the Whaler Drive on the boat in question. But it is not a good solution, and they should be moved somewhere else. If the oil tanks find a better home under the helm seats, that is an improvement. It might be awkward to fill them in that location.

The Whaler Drive is used on many models, not just the 27 Full Cabin. It is probably most commonly seen on 22-foot and 25-foot classic hulls. In those boats, there is a very generous amount of enclosed space under the stern deck, and there is ample room for two batteries, two oil tanks, lots of rigging, and all sorts of lines and gear.

On my Whaler Drive boat with a two-stroke engine, the engine oil tank is mounted under the stern deck. In that location it is mostly protected from spray and rain, but it's not in a water-tight compartment. It is right below the smaller outer (Port) hatch cover. To add oil is a bit awkward. A long funnel is needed, and it turns into a two-person job. One person holds the funnel and watches the oil tank level, while the second pours the oil--carefully--into the funnel. Watch out for getting two-cycle oil on the teak hatch covers. We must have had a little globule of two-cycle oil land on the teak hatch cover. It really softened the wood and ate into it. Teak and two-cycle oil don't like to mix.

Peter posted 12-24-2014 06:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
The construction of the Whaler 27 hull, with or without the Whaler Drive, is a bit different than the smaller classic Whaler hulls, such as the 22 and 25 foot hulls. Unlike the 22 and 25 foot hulls, there is no splash well that abuts the transom and which flows almost "seamlessly" into the deck. The cockpit deck of the Whaler 27 ends at the bulkhead about two feet before the transom. This creates a "canyon" down to the bottom of the hull between the bulkhead and the transom. Thus unlike the 22 and 25 Whaler Drive hulls, there is no deck or surface upon which to mount a variety of things. The batteries are tucked in under the two bait wells.

And one would not build a platform in the canyon space beneath the fish well located in the transom because clear access to the bottom of the hull through the opening in the transom when the fish well is removed is needed to reach the drain plug and bilge pump, which usually involves lying on the transom and extending part of the torso upside down into the opening.

Another thing one would observe when looking in the fish well opening with the fish well removed towards the far sides around in the opening is what appears to be stringers.

In short, the Whaler 27 hull is not just a scaled up version of the 25 foot hull as is nearly the case between the 18 and 25 foot classic V hulls.

jimh posted 12-24-2014 08:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Thanks for the details on the 27-foot hull construction. It sounds like it has what would generally be called a bilge at the stern, and that is quite different from the other hulls. The 22-foot hulls with the narrow engine splash well, sometimes called the sink splash well, have a similarly deep area at the transom, but in the models converted to Whaler Drive this is often filled with foam and covered with a laminate top. This creates a nice, slightly elevated flat deck area, and that is precisely where the oil tank on my boat is mounted. The hull drain at the very bottom of what was a deep well is eliminated.
nickdemco posted 12-27-2014 09:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Hi Peter et all,

Your thoughts are much appreciated. I have put a deposit down on this boat for him to hold it for me until I can get the engines inspected and we can hopefully agree on a price in the new year..

Peter - is there anywhere I could find blueprints of the 27 hull or some pictures or even some further comments on this. I'm finding it hard to picture in my head..

nickdemco posted 12-27-2014 09:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Also - Any other suggestions on upgrades that would be worth my while on this boat other than moving the oil tanks? I have read that replacing the thru-hull fittings with nice stainless pieces is recommended and would like to know what else I will need to do..
martyn1075 posted 12-28-2014 01:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for martyn1075  Send Email to martyn1075     
As far as other suggestions for upgrades, does the boat have a four batteries installed or just the two? If you plan on using quite a bit of house power maybe an upgrade to the electrical system to accommodate another dedicated battery(s) for the cabin use might be a good idea. My last boat was equipped with isolators to allow power to override in case of a dead battery in the chain. I liked the idea but it was a bit over the top in most cases however it came with the boat otherwise a simple manual switch would work well. I would only suggest this if you plan on using the cabin overnight on the hook. That way your two stern batteries are dedicated for the main power only specifically the engines. Optimax motors require a tremendous amount of starting power to get them going. If you run the batteries down after leaving a light on etc. you may compromise the batteries for that all important first start.

To help combat the power usage you could upgrade all the interior and hardtop lights to LED. Price has come down the quality is quite good and the draw is way less than traditional bulbs.

If you get a kicker a separate control and perhaps an isolated tank for its use is a good idea. Only reason I would suggest this is I know you like to fish and if you plan on taking the boat offshore into grounds that are inhabited to a certain degree. As you know some fuel facilities are many miles away and it's well known sometimes their gas is of horrible quality. If you need stop not only is it inconvenient you may be forced to pick some up fuel and adding bad gas to the one large tank several mikes away from home may cause a big problem. It's nice for peace of mind and trip management to have one tank for A-B travel and another backup for fishing or emergency use.

JohnKaloper posted 12-30-2014 10:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnKaloper  Send Email to JohnKaloper     
The 27 your looking at is a real nice boat. Ive seen that boat at Elliott Bay Marina during the summer for many years and winter stored indoors. I don't know the owner however as you can tell the boat is well cared for. That boat has been to Canada many times and I think well rigged for the Pacific Northwest. I've got to believe if there was a better option for oil tank location they would not be on the Whaler Drive. It is a beautiful boat and will serve you well in our waters. Good luck, John
nickdemco posted 01-08-2015 07:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Hey guys,

I have now completed the survey and engine inspection on this boat. I would greatly appreciate anyone's opinion. Give me your email and I will send them to you..

Thanks - Nick

Jeff posted 01-08-2015 11:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     

If you are willing to share the survey, I would be interested in seeing it.

cvyarb posted 01-18-2015 01:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
Nickdemco, can I ask what the outcome was here?

Do you have a nice Boston Whaler to enjoy for years to come or no?

nickdemco posted 01-23-2015 02:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Yup I bought the boat. I will post some pics when I bring her home.
nickdemco posted 02-23-2015 05:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Thanks for all your help guys. I bought the boat and brought it up from Seattle on Friday.

The bilge pump in the cabin bilge is leaking and needs to be replaced. Which model bilge pump do you recommend replacing it with?

I will also be installing a kicker, gunwale padding, swim ladder, and replacing all interior/exterior lights with LED. I will keep you updated on this thread for anyone that wants to follow along..


Hoosier posted 02-24-2015 09:18 AM ET (US)     Profile for Hoosier  Send Email to Hoosier     
I replaced the one in my 23 Walkaround with one that had an internal float switch. My experience with paddle style float switches is that they are easy to foul and then will not work.

nickdemco posted 02-26-2015 02:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Hi cyvarb,

Referring to your posts earlier in the thread - can you send some pics of where the engine oil tanks are located on yours? I have a guy coming down this weekend to relocate them for me..


Peter posted 02-26-2015 08:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
As previously posted, mine were located in the storage locker under the helm seat. The tanks were plumbed to oil fills on the top of the storage locker. The helm seat was pivoted up on the port side hinge to gain access to the oil fills.
cvyarb posted 02-26-2015 09:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for cvyarb    
Hi Nickdemco,

I'm sorry, but I don't have any pictures and the boat is far enough away (hours) that I can't go snap them. Like Peter said above, there were two tanks located under (in the storage area) the driver's helm chair. There were then two black oil fill pick-ups that were plumbed to the back part of the chair, and you would just use a funnel and pour the oil in.

The oil lines then run from the tanks under the deck into a six or so inch "channel" outside of furthest right, large white stringer (correct term, not sure? There are four).

That's the best I can do to describe it, sorry about the lack of pics.

You have a great boat, good luck. Post some pics of you hauling in some fish when time allows.

nickdemco posted 03-03-2015 12:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Hi Guys,

Anyone know where I could find some blueprints for this boat? 'm looking to get some padding made for the gunwale as well as some custom pads made for the girls to sun bathe on up on the bow. I've outlined the area I'm thinking in the image below but would love to know the measurements so I can get some quotes today or else I'll head down there with a measuring tape tonight.

[Bad URL links to ] image by nickdemco on Flickr

Jeff posted 03-03-2015 02:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff

The only person on here who might have those dims would be "Draftsman" from his days at Whaler.

Outside of that, I know of no drawings that are available to the public.

nickdemco posted 03-17-2015 01:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for nickdemco  Send Email to nickdemco     
Planning to remove the teak hatches from the boat and take them home to recondition. Anyone have any good links on this topic?


jimh posted 03-17-2015 04:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
NICK--Are you asking for advice on removing the hatches? Or, are you asking for advice on how to refinish the hatches?

To find prior discussion on either of those topics, you can utilize the SEARCH function. The SEARCH function searches an index of prior articles and the database is very current, generally not more than a few minutes old. Follow the link to the SEACH--there is a hyperlink to SEARCH on every page of every article of every forum--and you will find instructions on how to use the SEARCH.

If the local SEACH function does not find something for you, you can also elect to use a GOOGLE SEARCH that searches only this website as an alternative. Sometimes the GOOGLE algorithm turns up results that may be missed by the website's own algorithm.

In any case, seeking advice on making repairs or modifications is best initiated in the forum REPAIRS/MODS. Your thread here in THE GAM was about evaluating and buying a boat. Now that you have the boat and want to make repairs to it, please move to REPAIRS/MODS. Please start a thread for each aspect of the repair, rather than starting one thread to cover all possible future repairs to your boat.

I will be glad to help you with advice as I can, but please move to REPAIRS/MODS to seek it.

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