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ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
|Author||Topic: Barrier Paint|
posted 03-16-2015 09:49 AM ET (US)
I recently purchased a 2009 [130 SUPER SPORT]. I am going to moor and use the boat in fresh water lakes. [Do] I need to apply a barrier coat such as Tuff Stuff or InterProtect to the bottom to avoid blistering? If the answer is yes, what do you recommend. If the answer is no, why? What has been your experience? I want to keep this boat looking new for years to come. Thank you in advance for sharing your experience and thoughts.
posted 03-16-2015 12:20 PM ET (US)
I recommend you check the owner's manual for you 2009 Boston Whaler 130 SUPER SPORT boat to get advice on the need for painting the bottom or applying a barrier coat.
I am not expert on the resins used by Boston Whaler in 2009, but in their earlier eras of construction, they always recommended applying a two-part epoxy paint or barrier coat to boats to be left in the water. See my reproduction in HTML of the Boston Whaler owner's manual for 9 to 17-foot boats from c.1988 at
for the applicable portion of the owner's manual. Check your own boat's owner's manual for advice on your 2009 boat.
If your boat does need to have a barrier coat applied, there is a general feeling that applying the barrier coat in a color or hue that is a close match to the hull color is preferred over applying a coating in a dark color or in black. This is a concern for aesthetic reasons, as it is generally felt that breaking up the hull lines of the Boston Whaler hull, particularly in the bow area, with a contrasting color of bottom paint will detract from the appearance and style of the boat. The color match does not have to be exact, but should be close. A white, two-part barrier coat will probably work well on a 2009 hull, as the hull gel coat color is probably very close to pure titanium white.
posted 03-16-2015 12:24 PM ET (US)
Regarding osmotic blistering of the gel coat and laminates of a Boston Whaler boat, I do not recall hearing many reports of problems with Boston Whaler boats in this regard. Osmotic blistering was a major problem with many fiberglass hulls several decades ago, but lately it seems to not be much mentioned. The tendency of a fiberglass boat hull to have osmotic blisters seemed to be related to the method of lay-up and probably to the resins used. I don't think Boston Whaler boats have a reputation for showing this problem. This may be due to the quality of the resins used and the method of their construction. Also, a great majority of Boston Whaler boats live on their trailers, so they are not in the water all the time. That certainly reduces the chances of blistering to occur.
posted 03-16-2015 12:27 PM ET (US)
The other reason to apply a bottom paint is for anti-fouling. Depending on the water temperature and water quality of the lakes you will be leaving your 2009 Boston Whaler SUPER SPORT 130 on, the need for anti-fouling characteristics in the bottom paint will vary. My own boat spends most of its time in the relatively cool or sometimes cold water of the Great Lakes, in areas with extremely good water clarity and little marine growth, and even for periods as long as two weeks I have not noticed any marine growth. On the other hand, only a few days in slack water with a lot of algae and the hull will be stained.
posted 03-16-2015 01:08 PM ET (US)
In 2008 I purchased a new 2007 Boston Whaler 200 Dauntless. When I inquired about using a barrier coat prior to bottom painting, Our local Master Dealer for Boston Whaler reported that the factory was strongly stating that a
barrier coat was not necessary on current model Boston whalers.
I have kept the boat in salt water half the year for 6 seasons and to date there is no evidence of osmotic blistering.
posted 03-19-2015 03:04 PM ET (US)
I'd refer to the owner's manual in preference to a second-hand account of a recommendation from a dealer. Or, check with Boston Whaler directly.
I searched the WHALER.COM domain with GOOGLE SEARCH for various related terms, but I could not find an search results for "barrier" "barrier coat" or even "bottom paint." Oops--try this seach on BOSTONWHALER.COM, with much better outcome:
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&as_q=boston+whaler+barrier+coat& as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all& as_sitesearch=whaler.com&as_occt=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=& as_rights=#hl=en&as_qdr=all&q=bottom+paint+site:bostonwhaler.com
In particular, see
Then try this search:
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&as_q=boston+whaler+barrier+coat& as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all& as_sitesearch=whaler.com&as_occt=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=& as_rights=#hl=en&as_qdr=all&q=barrier+site:bostonwhaler.com
In particular, read this article:
The above seems to be in direct conflict with the second-hand recitation of a dealer's recommendation.
ASIDE: it looks like the domain WHALER.COM which was used for years by Boston Whaler has been replaced with BOSTONWHALER.COM. If you have any old links that don't automatically redirect, you might try changing the domain name.
posted 03-19-2015 09:38 PM ET (US)
Try Imron (two part)clear coat on the entire outside hull. It will not repel organisms and algae but it will make the hull 110 times easier to clean.
posted 03-20-2015 06:44 AM ET (US)
Since your primary interest, as stated, is to keep the boat looking new for years to come, it's a no-brainer - do the best possible job, which is a properly-applied barrier coat followed by an anti-fouling paint formulated to work well in the area you're in.
Try working backwards - check with other people who keep their boats in the same lake you'll be mooring in and see what they use for anti-fouling, then go to that same paint company's web site and figure out what barrier coat will work well underneath it. Staying with the same company will be the best guarantee of compatibility.
Anti-fouling that matches the hull color will look nice, but a darker color will hide stains better - pick your poison.
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