posted 08-05-2001 12:07 AM ET (US)        

I pulled all of mine today, water in the lowest point of the "V". With this design, there is now way to avoid it. I when over the hull with a mallet inch by inch. No voids/delmaination. Thanks god for small favors. Foam is acutally dry (or only slightly damp) in the thru-hulls above the keel.

I'm going to sand & barrier coat the outside, install all non keel thru-hulls and put a vaccume pump on her. Over the winter, I'll put her on blocks at a good angle and let her drain.

Seriously, if you have not changed your thru-hulls, do it now. It will save your boat, and your investment.

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posted 08-05-2001 12:06 PM ET (US)            

What I am saying is that if those drain tubes are origional, I'm sure they are rotted through, and yes, there is water in the hull.

If your boat is in the water, put your finger into one of the drain tubes and feel up and down the inside of it. With marine growth, it may be hard to correct, but you will proably find a hole from corrosion. If your boat is on a lift or trailer, this much eaiser to due from the bottom.

My point is that these tubes should be changed reguarly, and that they rarely are.

To fix it, look through the old posts in this section with titles "Waterlogged foam" "Water in hull" etc.

posted 08-06-2001 06:20 AM ET (US)         

Most of the folks with Whalers in fact probably the largest percent trailer the boat and aside from the occasional week or weekend over the years has never sat day in and day out in the water as say the 25 and 27's of old! The small amount of water will be pretty much localized and the best thing to do is let it drip (after removing the tube, if it will) a day or two in the hot sun. Then glass up the hole and install a heavier drain tube either bronze or the newer plastic types as outlined else where in the Repair section.

Another fast sure way to insure no more problems is get the correct sized schedule 30 PVC tube and fiberglass it in sealing well the inter and outer areas, then just use the standard drain plugs either bar or snap to close/open. Clark Roberts I believe has used this method with success.

Now, this can be a major headache though with any boats not just Whalers which sit in the water year round or even seasonal (particularly in the warmer climates). These that have rotten drain tubes which have allowed continued water infiltration might want to look at this post from last year for ideas http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000128.html

posted 08-06-2001 07:45 AM ET (US)            

Great post, I missed the vaccume pump article when I want throught the forum last week. Glad you posted it here.

I guess my real point is that this is such a poor design BW owners need to be aware of it and fix it, before a small problem becoems a big one. I think BW must have assumed that water would get into the foam, and that in general the foam can handle it. Any decent enginer would look at thathe old drain tube design and KNOW that water was going to get into the foam. The thru-hulls should have been bronze, with solid glass behind them, just as you have done.

I would really encourage anyone with the old tubes to replace them. It is really not that hard, and it will save your boat.

PS: what did you do to repair the longer drain tubes? The one in my anchor locker is 9" long.

posted 08-07-2001 10:31 PM ET (US)            

I'm still trying to find out myself. Went to 3 plumbing supply houses, 4 marine stores. Brouth my 3" long brass drain tube with me ($2 and change at West Marine).

Result:

Plumbing guys laughed at me, said no way was I going to flair that tube, to strong to do with a hand-held flairing tool. Same at all three stores.

Marine store had no idea what I was talking about.

I'm going to mail BW tomorrow, and I'll let you know as soon as I find out. My guess is that the tubes used to go through the foam core are much more maleable then the ones that go through the transom.

posted 08-08-2001 07:20 AM ET (US)            

Great news, thanks for the post! Could you give me a number for Morehead Marine, and the name and brand of the tool you used please?

From your description, it sounds like you insert the tool through the drain tube from the outside, then attach the flairing device to the threaded rod sicking throught the tube on the inside. Then you tighten from the outside. Is this correct?

posted 08-08-2001 04:46 PM ET (US)            

tarbaby is right on the money. Go to www.moreheadmarine.com. Call the Ships store. They are nice people, know exactly what we are talking about, are a Whaler dealer, and it makes me wish my dealer were even remotly like them!