painting outboard - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  painting outboard

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   painting outboard

specktrout posted 08-08-2001 08:10 PM ET (US)
The 89 Johnson outboard on my montauk is starting to loose quite a bit of paint on the lower unit. I have seen several paint products in catalogs which consist of zinc phosphate based primers and a topcoat paint in easy to use spray cans. One brand I see a lot is the Tempo primer. Has anyone used these paints with good success on their outboards? If so, how long did it hold up for compared to the original paint? Do you have to sand off all the original paint prior to priming or can you just sand the areas where pain has already flaked off and spray over areas of good paint? Any advice would be very appreciated- thanks
gnrgunner posted 08-08-2001 08:56 PM ET (US)
This last spring I painted my 1981 35 hp Evinrude. I had bought a used 1995 35 Horsepower cover from a former Evinrude dealer. I then bought the matching spray paint. I first went over the engine with paint thinner to get all dirt, debris, grease etc. Then I rubbed the engine with a dry cloth. I first painted the engine with a dark blue primer. When dry, I put on 4 coats of topcoat. Came out awesome, except where I screwed up and oversprayed and caused a drip. Engine looked 15 years newer! Matched cover perfect and stayed on until the engine ceased this year during my vacation. I used speciatly OMC Touch-Up paint. The ones you see in the magazines will probably work fine. I really think it works really well and looks awesome. Just my opinion.
gnrgunner posted 08-08-2001 08:59 PM ET (US)
One more thing, at least for evinrudes, they make the paint colors for specific engine years, Johnsons have been white for as long as I can remeber. However, I don't know how many shades of white they used. Evinrudes have been a number of different shades of blue, making it somewhat more difficult to select the right paint. Make sure you get the right paint! Good Luck.
LarrySherman posted 08-08-2001 09:53 PM ET (US)
I did a quick job.
1 can Zinc somthingorother primer (green in color)
1 can sandable white primer
1 can top coat
Blasted them on in about 2 hrs on a hot day. Still came out great.
hauptjm posted 08-09-2001 10:19 AM ET (US)
As told to me by a pro:
1.Shoot a very thin coat of the zinc.
2.While zinc is still wet, shoot a thin coat of sandable primer. The two will combine and allow the topcoat to adhere. If you wait for the zinc to dry, primer and topcoat will not adhere correctly.
3.Allow for the combo to get tacky. Don't touch with palm side of your finger to test. Use the backside of you finger so as not to leave mark or oils. Surface should be tacky, but no transfer of color to your finger.
4.Shoot your topcoat in at least two thin layers, preferably three. Topcoats should be allowed to dry between applications.
5.All sanding and cleaning should be done before any paint is applied. There should be no need to sand between applications.
I've done this with an older motor some years back, and sold the motor 3 years later. The buyer couldn't believe the condition it was still in.
hauptjm posted 08-09-2001 10:37 AM ET (US)
I forgot some important tips:
Never paint your sacrificial zinc anodes.
Never paint the contact surfaces of where your anodes attach to the motor. If you paint the motor where these attach, you'll "insulate" the current flow to the anode, defeating its purpose.
Exposed metal surfaces will allow deterioration to occur at that site, even with intact anodes. Painting your engine not only looks good, but also protects the engine casing. Remember, you're combining stainless and aluminum components in water with a lot of static energy...not a good combination.
Whaler15 posted 08-11-2001 09:30 AM ET (US)
What about the cover? It is fiberglass. I painted mine with the Evinrude paint and it came out good except for a somewhat dull finish.
Any suggestions on how I can smooth it out and bring back the original shine?
ValkariaKid posted 08-11-2001 11:43 AM ET (US)
Hauptjm-
You didn't by any chance happen to watch "Maximim Marine" on SpeedVision the other day... did you!? ;)
-Paul
TIMMY posted 08-11-2001 10:07 PM ET (US)
i painted my 86 yamaha,motor looks much newer then it really is.i used primer,then sanded it primed again. went to west marine bought outboard paint original color that they sell. painted it then put clear over it. i'm happy
hauptjm posted 08-13-2001 08:59 AM ET (US)
ValkariaKid,
Missed it on the first run, but my 'pro' buddy called me several days later and gloated while I watched it. Apparently, OMC put out a video years ago that gives exactly the same instruction. I have another friend that has redone probably 5 or 6 old OMCs, and swears by this method as well.
Bigshot posted 08-13-2001 11:42 AM ET (US)
If your engine cover still looks good "wet" have it clearcoated. You can tape off the decals and paint the color and then clearcoat over it all. Looks factory. The Tempo paint is a bit dull. The clear brings out the shine. Original paint is baked on and much tougher. The yamaha and suzuki color is close but....no cigar, looks better than faded though.
jimh posted 08-13-2001 11:14 PM ET (US)
See:
http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/paintSkeg/
hauptjm posted 08-14-2001 02:37 PM ET (US)
jimh, your comments regarding the odd instructions, They warned: "Recoat within first four hours or after one week. Any attempt to recoat between these intervals may result in lifting of the first application." This jives with the instructions I've heard now from several sources that you should apply the sandable primer while the zinc is still wet so there is a combining effect. The comment I was told was, if you allow the zinc to dry, the sandable primer and top coats will lift.
Bigshot posted 08-14-2001 02:47 PM ET (US)
Also heard and recently did this: Do not put zinc on too heavy, just enough to coat the metal. If you color it green, color coat will peel. Last couple paint jobs I just put on enough that I could still see shades through it and it came out perfect and lasted. Never really had peeling problem anywhere above the lower unit though.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: painting outboard
specktrout	posted 08-08-2001 08:10 PM ET (US) The 89 Johnson outboard on my montauk is starting to loose quite a bit of paint on the lower unit. I have seen several paint products in catalogs which consist of zinc phosphate based primers and a topcoat paint in easy to use spray cans. One brand I see a lot is the Tempo primer. Has anyone used these paints with good success on their outboards? If so, how long did it hold up for compared to the original paint? Do you have to sand off all the original paint prior to priming or can you just sand the areas where pain has already flaked off and spray over areas of good paint? Any advice would be very appreciated- thanks
gnrgunner	posted 08-08-2001 08:56 PM ET (US) This last spring I painted my 1981 35 hp Evinrude. I had bought a used 1995 35 Horsepower cover from a former Evinrude dealer. I then bought the matching spray paint. I first went over the engine with paint thinner to get all dirt, debris, grease etc. Then I rubbed the engine with a dry cloth. I first painted the engine with a dark blue primer. When dry, I put on 4 coats of topcoat. Came out awesome, except where I screwed up and oversprayed and caused a drip. Engine looked 15 years newer! Matched cover perfect and stayed on until the engine ceased this year during my vacation. I used speciatly OMC Touch-Up paint. The ones you see in the magazines will probably work fine. I really think it works really well and looks awesome. Just my opinion.
gnrgunner	posted 08-08-2001 08:59 PM ET (US) One more thing, at least for evinrudes, they make the paint colors for specific engine years, Johnsons have been white for as long as I can remeber. However, I don't know how many shades of white they used. Evinrudes have been a number of different shades of blue, making it somewhat more difficult to select the right paint. Make sure you get the right paint! Good Luck.
LarrySherman	posted 08-08-2001 09:53 PM ET (US) I did a quick job. 1 can Zinc somthingorother primer (green in color) 1 can sandable white primer 1 can top coat Blasted them on in about 2 hrs on a hot day. Still came out great.
hauptjm	posted 08-09-2001 10:19 AM ET (US) As told to me by a pro: 1.Shoot a very thin coat of the zinc. 2.While zinc is still wet, shoot a thin coat of sandable primer. The two will combine and allow the topcoat to adhere. If you wait for the zinc to dry, primer and topcoat will not adhere correctly. 3.Allow for the combo to get tacky. Don't touch with palm side of your finger to test. Use the backside of you finger so as not to leave mark or oils. Surface should be tacky, but no transfer of color to your finger. 4.Shoot your topcoat in at least two thin layers, preferably three. Topcoats should be allowed to dry between applications. 5.All sanding and cleaning should be done before any paint is applied. There should be no need to sand between applications. I've done this with an older motor some years back, and sold the motor 3 years later. The buyer couldn't believe the condition it was still in.
hauptjm	posted 08-09-2001 10:37 AM ET (US) I forgot some important tips: Never paint your sacrificial zinc anodes. Never paint the contact surfaces of where your anodes attach to the motor. If you paint the motor where these attach, you'll "insulate" the current flow to the anode, defeating its purpose. Exposed metal surfaces will allow deterioration to occur at that site, even with intact anodes. Painting your engine not only looks good, but also protects the engine casing. Remember, you're combining stainless and aluminum components in water with a lot of static energy...not a good combination.
Whaler15	posted 08-11-2001 09:30 AM ET (US) What about the cover? It is fiberglass. I painted mine with the Evinrude paint and it came out good except for a somewhat dull finish. Any suggestions on how I can smooth it out and bring back the original shine?
ValkariaKid	posted 08-11-2001 11:43 AM ET (US) Hauptjm- You didn't by any chance happen to watch "Maximim Marine" on SpeedVision the other day... did you!? ;) -Paul
TIMMY	posted 08-11-2001 10:07 PM ET (US) i painted my 86 yamaha,motor looks much newer then it really is.i used primer,then sanded it primed again. went to west marine bought outboard paint original color that they sell. painted it then put clear over it. i'm happy
hauptjm	posted 08-13-2001 08:59 AM ET (US) ValkariaKid, Missed it on the first run, but my 'pro' buddy called me several days later and gloated while I watched it. Apparently, OMC put out a video years ago that gives exactly the same instruction. I have another friend that has redone probably 5 or 6 old OMCs, and swears by this method as well.
Bigshot	posted 08-13-2001 11:42 AM ET (US) If your engine cover still looks good "wet" have it clearcoated. You can tape off the decals and paint the color and then clearcoat over it all. Looks factory. The Tempo paint is a bit dull. The clear brings out the shine. Original paint is baked on and much tougher. The yamaha and suzuki color is close but....no cigar, looks better than faded though.
jimh	posted 08-13-2001 11:14 PM ET (US) See: http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/paintSkeg/
hauptjm	posted 08-14-2001 02:37 PM ET (US) jimh, your comments regarding the odd instructions, They warned: "Recoat within first four hours or after one week. Any attempt to recoat between these intervals may result in lifting of the first application." This jives with the instructions I've heard now from several sources that you should apply the sandable primer while the zinc is still wet so there is a combining effect. The comment I was told was, if you allow the zinc to dry, the sandable primer and top coats will lift.
Bigshot	posted 08-14-2001 02:47 PM ET (US) Also heard and recently did this: Do not put zinc on too heavy, just enough to coat the metal. If you color it green, color coat will peel. Last couple paint jobs I just put on enough that I could still see shades through it and it came out perfect and lasted. Never really had peeling problem anywhere above the lower unit though.