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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
1987 17-Montauk: Loose railing, rust stains, cooler cleats
|Author||Topic: 1987 17-Montauk: Loose railing, rust stains, cooler cleats|
posted 05-14-2002 11:02 PM ET (US)
I am trying to fix a couple of things on my 1987 17' Montauk. I bought the boat last summer in SC. and brought it back to CT. The boat has some things that I want to fix before I put it back in the water.
1. The bow rail rattles. I think it comes from where the rail go throughs the O-rings that hold the rail to the hull. Any ideas on how to fix this?
2. There are also some rust spots where the O-rings that hold the rail to the hull attach to the hull. What is the best way to remove these stains?
3. The cooler tie downs are in rough shape. One is broken, and the other looks like crap. is the best thing to do just fabricate replacement ones? If so what is the best way to secure them to the floor?
4. There are some small holes in the hull where things used to be attached to the hull. What is the best way to fill these holes? I would like the repair to match the rest of the interior.
5. And the last thing is that the whole boat has a dull llook to it. The previous owner left the boat exposed to the elements for a couple of years. How do i get the gel coat to shine like it used too? Also I would like to get the exterior of teh hull to look like new and the console.
Thanks for the help, I can only hope that my boat comes out looking like soem of the ones I have seen on this site. You guys really do have some beautiful whalers.
posted 05-15-2002 12:11 AM ET (US)
I will try to help with some of your questions. Most of the solutions to your problems are in the Repairs/Mods forum section. Just "show topics from last 2 years" and enjoy.
1. How bad is the rattle? Make sure all the screws are tight and not loose or stripped. If they are:
2. Discussion on stain removal:
3. Discussion on cooler tie-downs:
4. Discussions on filling screw holes:
5: Discussion on gel coat restoration:
All the answers to your problems are contained on this website.... I probably overlooked some additional threads which could help.
posted 05-15-2002 01:37 PM ET (US)
merensen... your list is a lot like mine on my 1988 Montauk. I've finished most of these things the last few weeks, but I was turning that rail rattle problem over in my mind a few nights ago, and here is what I'm going to try...
My rattle is definitly not loose screws, the bases are secure, and the screws that hold the rails into the base are secure and were calked. The place that is rattling is clearly where the rails go through the standoffs about five inches up. The fit of the pipe inside the round end of the bracket is just slightly loose.
I think a shim solution might work here.
My plan is to get some kind thin mylar drawing film of some type and cut it into long skinny triangles say 7/8" x PI = 2 3/4" at the base and about 8" long, tapering to a point. I then plan on slipping the pointy end into the little gab between the fitting and the rail and pulling it through till it won't go anymore. At this point I should have wrapped mylar part way or all the way around the pipe inside the fitting. Just before it goes tight, I think something sticky might be a good idea, too. Then I'll trim off the excess top and bottom and the rails will be shimmed, which ought to stop the rattle.
Will it work? Don't know, but I'll let you know.
In the mean time, pull out a random orbital buffer, some #44 color resorer, 3M finessit II and some good wax and get busy. The results are very worth while, but its going to take a few days.
posted 05-15-2002 08:28 PM ET (US)
Had rattle problem in same spot. On starboard side, reinforcing the screw holes rendered the hole rail more quiet.
On port side, different problem. I unscrewed the standoffs and wrapped a piec of black electrical tape around the rail, using it as a quasi-shim. Worked fine - no rattle.
posted 05-15-2002 08:57 PM ET (US)
I have more or less dealt with every one of the issues you raise at one time or another with my Montauk. The links provided in the posts above are good info.
A comment about the rust spots. Without seeming to state the obvious, something is rusting, probably someone replaced one of the stainless steel screws with a regular steel one; find it and put stainless back in, or it will continue to rust.
About the rail rattling:
You might try injecting or forcing some clear silicone caulking in the joint; once it hardens it will not rattle. And it will come apart if it has to in the future.
BTW: The things you listed in your original post are do-able by almost anyone and the rewards are great: you'll end up with a really nice boat by spending a few hours in the driveway playing with your boat, you can't do anything wrong if you take your time. Have fun!
posted 05-16-2002 07:42 PM ET (US)
This may be an ignorant question, but what would happen if I used 3M 5200 instead of the products mentioned above?
The objects being fixed are exactly as described above.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 05-16-2002 10:05 PM ET (US)
3M 5200 is a strong adhesive caulk. If you bed something with it like a rail standoff, it may stick better than you want. There are other, less tenacious, polyurethane caulks on the market for use as bedding compounds.
There are some here on the FORUM who think that 3M 5200 is some kind of super glue and will hold anything permanently. This is not really true and 3M 5200 can be used for sealing screws and other small parts without any problem removing them in the future. Do not use 3M 5200 for bedding anything with a large surface area or you will have a problem.
Regarding the rattling of the stanchions in the standoffs, the set screws are supposed to control any rattling, however, in my experience those things are always stripping out. This is one place where the newer welded rails have an advantage.
posted 05-17-2002 04:15 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the advice. I think you've answered my question, as I was not very specific.
When I bought my Outrage, there were lots of empty screw holes in the deck. What I mean by empty is that something was temporarily there, then removed and the result is a screw hole in the deck.
Thats what I was referring to when I posed the question of using 3M 5200 as a filler.
Is your comment still applicable?
posted 05-24-2002 08:13 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the suggestions, I am going to tackle them all this weekend. The only other thing I am wondering is what is the best way to polish the rails, steering wheel and bow lights?
I will post pictures when I finish!
posted 05-25-2002 12:13 AM ET (US)
[Changed topic; was "RE:A couple of questions?"--jimh.]
Just a comment about choices in topics: the notion of a "question" is pretty much understood in a posting and does not need to be explicitly mentioned. A short summary of the topic material being discussed is appreciated in postings. It helps attract current readers to your posting, as well as aiding people in the future looking for message threads on particular topics.
As for polishing stainless, I have heard a product call "Bar Keeper's Friend" recommended for this, although I have not tried it myself. I did just buy a can of the powder for a few dollars at the local hardware store last week.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 05-25-2002 12:52 AM ET (US)
Yes you can use 3M 5200 to plug up screw holes. While not as nice looking as meticulously patching them with a gel coat patch paste, it certainly will keep the water out.
Bar Keepers Friend has oxalic acid in it which is why it removes rust stains. It really does work. It may also be good at cleaning stainless steel rails. The oxalic acid may help remove the crevice corrosion as the abrasives in it will do too. Comet cleanser is also good at cleaning the rails.
For polishing the rails or other stainless steel items, Brasso metal polish is the ticket.
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