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Author Topic:   Fuel tank area drain Revenge

JMARTIN posted 03-02-2004 03:09 PM ET (US)
What a terrific site. First time user and I have many questions. Smelled gas in stern compartment of my 83 Revenge. Some call this compartment the "bait well". Read and looked at most of the comments, pictures, ideas about the fuel system. Pulled up fuel compartment hatch to investigate. Had less then 2 gallons of water in compartment. Bonding wires look good. Aluminum (how do you spell check on the forum so I look smarter than I am?) tank in the foam as expected. Looked good, some evidence of fuel, water mix with discoloration of foam pads, side foam. Stronger odor and evidence of fuel at fill, vent, fittings. Fuel/water mix in well for fuel/vent hose. Think I have caused problem by topping off the tank and allowing fuel to remain in filler and vent hoses. Will replace all fuel lines since I am there. Do not want to replace tank. Would have to remove bulkhead it looks like to do it correctly, looks like big job. The boat has been kept kept remarkably dry for 20 years, but did get alot of rain water last fall, forgot to leave on one battery for the bilge pump for a week and filled up the stern with water.
Questions:
Any one done thier own pressure test of the fuel tank? I know I should only pressure to the max of 4 pounds.
Thru hull drain at stern end, starboard, fuel compartment was plugged up with foam, grit, junk. Foam was dug out right in front of this drain by someone. It looks like the floor has been up before, used boat, I have had it 10 years. I am assuming I should clear this drain. Problem would be if tank breaches, water being heavier than fuel will push fuel up, it will flow back, out the thur hull, into trough, back to sump pump, sump pump turns on, have a chance to turn my boat into a "liquid asset" if you know what I mean.
What is the trough, channel, what ever on the port side for? It can be drained into but not out of. Had a pint of water in it. Would like for it to drain into the "bait well" so I could get the water out.
What type of foam is the pads on top of the tank? Closed, open, rubber, or should I just put the old ones back on after they dry out. They were wet, but not sopping.
Will let you know what I find out about the tank. I assume there are a few of you 20 year old, aluminum tank people out there that are worried. Might borrow a digital camera and take some pictures to send to the person in charge if they want. Oh, the plywood on the bottom of the hatch cover is glassed in. Looks in good shape, no rot.
Thank you, who ever you are for this site. The "owners manual" that came with the boat was an absolute joke. I have learned more in the last couple of days from this site than I have in the last 10 years.

peetmin posted 03-02-2004 06:03 PM ET (US)
Here are a couple of good articles on your subject...
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/centerDeckRepair.html[/url}
or
[url]http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage70.html
Good Luck, pb
peetmin posted 03-02-2004 06:05 PM ET (US)
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/centerDeckRepair.html
peetmin posted 03-02-2004 06:06 PM ET (US)
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage70.html
This works better
JMARTIN posted 03-04-2004 08:04 PM ET (US)
Talked to a boat builder that also builds and replaces internal fuel tanks. He said he had replaced many tanks that were foamed in, but never a Whaler. Was very surprised the tank had lasted as long as it has. He wanted some info on the tank. The tank was made by Florida Marine Tanks Inc, 5052 aluminum, guage .125. He was surprised, marine grade aluminum and good thickness. Also has a zinc bromite primer on the tank, also something he does not see very often. I did a pressure test, be careful, only a pound or two of pressure is plenty, used a hand held bike tire pump, and we passed. All the hoses were toast, thats were the leaks were. Will put on new hoses and seal back up. The foam has dried out amazingly well by using a fan to blow air over the compartment. You can remove the tank on an 83 Revenge without removing the bulk head, see cetacea page 70. Whaler made some improvments for tank access since this model. I would recomend for you Revenge boat owners to inspect the vent and fill hoses. The channel they lay in does not drain well at all. You can get a good idea of thier condition by removing the round inspection ports, and a small part of the deck and facia just below the fuel fill opening. The small deck piece has a Do Not Drill emblem on it. I am also going to leave my inspection access ports open when the boat is under cover from now on. The supply line to the motor should also be inspected by inspection plate and routing thru the bait well.
jimh posted 03-04-2004 08:44 PM ET (US)
I was about to post the strong suggestion to replace all your fuel lines, particularly the fill line, but I see in your follow-up article you have undertaken that project.
I think you mean to say "zinc chromate" as a primer for aluminum, a commonly used paint for corrosion protection of aluminum and a familiar green in color.
I have a 1987 Boston Whaler REVENGE 20 and I plan to replace the fuel filler hose and fuel tank vent hose this spring.

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Author	Topic: Fuel tank area drain Revenge
JMARTIN	posted 03-02-2004 03:09 PM ET (US) What a terrific site. First time user and I have many questions. Smelled gas in stern compartment of my 83 Revenge. Some call this compartment the "bait well". Read and looked at most of the comments, pictures, ideas about the fuel system. Pulled up fuel compartment hatch to investigate. Had less then 2 gallons of water in compartment. Bonding wires look good. Aluminum (how do you spell check on the forum so I look smarter than I am?) tank in the foam as expected. Looked good, some evidence of fuel, water mix with discoloration of foam pads, side foam. Stronger odor and evidence of fuel at fill, vent, fittings. Fuel/water mix in well for fuel/vent hose. Think I have caused problem by topping off the tank and allowing fuel to remain in filler and vent hoses. Will replace all fuel lines since I am there. Do not want to replace tank. Would have to remove bulkhead it looks like to do it correctly, looks like big job. The boat has been kept kept remarkably dry for 20 years, but did get alot of rain water last fall, forgot to leave on one battery for the bilge pump for a week and filled up the stern with water. Questions: Any one done thier own pressure test of the fuel tank? I know I should only pressure to the max of 4 pounds. Thru hull drain at stern end, starboard, fuel compartment was plugged up with foam, grit, junk. Foam was dug out right in front of this drain by someone. It looks like the floor has been up before, used boat, I have had it 10 years. I am assuming I should clear this drain. Problem would be if tank breaches, water being heavier than fuel will push fuel up, it will flow back, out the thur hull, into trough, back to sump pump, sump pump turns on, have a chance to turn my boat into a "liquid asset" if you know what I mean. What is the trough, channel, what ever on the port side for? It can be drained into but not out of. Had a pint of water in it. Would like for it to drain into the "bait well" so I could get the water out. What type of foam is the pads on top of the tank? Closed, open, rubber, or should I just put the old ones back on after they dry out. They were wet, but not sopping. Will let you know what I find out about the tank. I assume there are a few of you 20 year old, aluminum tank people out there that are worried. Might borrow a digital camera and take some pictures to send to the person in charge if they want. Oh, the plywood on the bottom of the hatch cover is glassed in. Looks in good shape, no rot. Thank you, who ever you are for this site. The "owners manual" that came with the boat was an absolute joke. I have learned more in the last couple of days from this site than I have in the last 10 years.
peetmin	posted 03-02-2004 06:03 PM ET (US) Here are a couple of good articles on your subject... http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/centerDeckRepair.html[/url} or [url]http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage70.html Good Luck, pb
peetmin	posted 03-02-2004 06:05 PM ET (US) http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/centerDeckRepair.html
peetmin	posted 03-02-2004 06:06 PM ET (US) http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage70.html This works better
JMARTIN	posted 03-04-2004 08:04 PM ET (US) Talked to a boat builder that also builds and replaces internal fuel tanks. He said he had replaced many tanks that were foamed in, but never a Whaler. Was very surprised the tank had lasted as long as it has. He wanted some info on the tank. The tank was made by Florida Marine Tanks Inc, 5052 aluminum, guage .125. He was surprised, marine grade aluminum and good thickness. Also has a zinc bromite primer on the tank, also something he does not see very often. I did a pressure test, be careful, only a pound or two of pressure is plenty, used a hand held bike tire pump, and we passed. All the hoses were toast, thats were the leaks were. Will put on new hoses and seal back up. The foam has dried out amazingly well by using a fan to blow air over the compartment. You can remove the tank on an 83 Revenge without removing the bulk head, see cetacea page 70. Whaler made some improvments for tank access since this model. I would recomend for you Revenge boat owners to inspect the vent and fill hoses. The channel they lay in does not drain well at all. You can get a good idea of thier condition by removing the round inspection ports, and a small part of the deck and facia just below the fuel fill opening. The small deck piece has a Do Not Drill emblem on it. I am also going to leave my inspection access ports open when the boat is under cover from now on. The supply line to the motor should also be inspected by inspection plate and routing thru the bait well.
jimh	posted 03-04-2004 08:44 PM ET (US) I was about to post the strong suggestion to replace all your fuel lines, particularly the fill line, but I see in your follow-up article you have undertaken that project. I think you mean to say "zinc chromate" as a primer for aluminum, a commonly used paint for corrosion protection of aluminum and a familiar green in color. I have a 1987 Boston Whaler REVENGE 20 and I plan to replace the fuel filler hose and fuel tank vent hose this spring.