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Author Topic:   13' hull form

ted giesel posted 04-02-2004 05:54 PM ET (US)
I've been sanding an old 13' whaler prior to refinishing & just noticed that it appears to be hogged!(the bottom, for at least the aft 4' or so is decidedly concave fore & aft - at practically all points of measurement) BIG question : is this part of the original design or is the boat toast?

Buckda posted 04-02-2004 06:23 PM ET (US)
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005545.html
http://www.keltonkrew.com/whaler.html
These should help.
Dave
keltonkrew posted 04-02-2004 06:44 PM ET (US)
Here's my other link with verbage
http://www.keltonkrew.com/whaler-restore.htm
macfam posted 04-02-2004 06:51 PM ET (US)
ted,
As far as I know, the old Whalers had a "hook" on the bottom toward the transom in it's design. They modified it in later years.
I think that design was to keep the bow level (low)at higher speeds.
Many early BW were "tiller controlled" with the driver very far aft while driving. The "hook" compendsated for all the aft weight.
I'm sure others on the forum will correct me if I'm mistaken.
keltonkrew posted 04-02-2004 08:15 PM ET (US)
Mine has a "hook" so to speak at the rear.
take a look at this pic as it really shows the hull design
http://users3.ev1.net/~keltonkrew/graphics/restore-34.jpg
jimh posted 04-02-2004 08:21 PM ET (US)
Kelton--I thought that your photograph of the freshly painted hull bottom was one of the best at showing the details of that hull. In particular, I had never noticed how the runners terminated abruptly. The addition of the running strakes or keels on the bottom is also clearly seen. And now that you mention it, the slight hook in the hull is also visible.
It is a very good photograph for revealing these details.
ted giesel posted 04-03-2004 12:19 PM ET (US)
thanks guys, You've taken a load off my mind. I went out & took another look at my hull's bottom & sure enough the "hog" is a "hook" that extends 4-6" from the transom. Thanks again!
Now, for another question on which there seem to be 2 distinct replys (& on which I'd like more opinions given the conditions I describe. To wit: my entire hull, inside & out, shows spider cracks which, in most places, go through the outer white gelcoat AND the inner cream-colored gelcoat. Opinion seems to vary about how far to sand this damage. 2 of 3 "professionals" I've contacted say they'd put several coats of new gelcoat over the cracks. (SInce that the cream-colored layer is very thin, I'm tempted by this approach, reasoning that the new, much thicker gelcoat should overpower any tendency of the cracks to cause cracking in the new layers.) The other suggested approach is to sand off everything down to the smooth black later which is immediately over the glass (any may be part of the glassing process, prime with some goo my paint store stocks, & then start putting the gelcoat on. This was suggested by the people at the paint store and a tech guy at Gougeon. I'd say that this must be the safest way to go, but....
Tom W Clark posted 04-03-2004 12:33 PM ET (US)
The "hook" in the bottom of the classic 13' Boston Whaler is there by design. Contrary to what Bob (macfam) says above, the hook remained in this hull until production of it ceased in 2000
jimh posted 04-03-2004 12:44 PM ET (US)
In my experience the laminate on a Boston Whaler boat looks like this, beginning at the surface and going inward:
1--Gel coat resin, usually off-white in color about 0.020-inch (20-mils)
2--Polyester resin and laminates, often green in color, thickness varying depending on location; thickest in the hull's keel, thinner in non-structural areas. Typically no more than 0.25-inch
3--Foam, usually white but possibly with a yellowish tint if exposed to air.
If you are seeing what appears to be two colors of gel coat, it is probably due to severe oxidation and UV radiation having changed the surface of the gel coat.
The gel coat layer is somewhat brittle and cannot be applied with excessive thickness else it tends to crack.
Hulls that have extensive spider cracking in the gel coat are often reported. I take this as a sign of poor maintenance combined with long term exposure to UV radiation and weather. I don't have any experience to offer in resolving this. Generally the advice is usually to sand and fair the existing surface in preparation for a new protective outer layer. At this point the advice splits into two forks: re-gel coat the boat or paint the boat.
I would think that before either the underlying surface would need to be faired and sanded. I would not count on filling all the cracks with paint or new gel coat, particularly if there are deep cracks.

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Author	Topic: 13' hull form
ted giesel	posted 04-02-2004 05:54 PM ET (US) I've been sanding an old 13' whaler prior to refinishing & just noticed that it appears to be hogged!(the bottom, for at least the aft 4' or so is decidedly concave fore & aft - at practically all points of measurement) BIG question : is this part of the original design or is the boat toast?
Buckda	posted 04-02-2004 06:23 PM ET (US) http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005545.html http://www.keltonkrew.com/whaler.html These should help. Dave
keltonkrew	posted 04-02-2004 06:44 PM ET (US) Here's my other link with verbage http://www.keltonkrew.com/whaler-restore.htm
macfam	posted 04-02-2004 06:51 PM ET (US) ted, As far as I know, the old Whalers had a "hook" on the bottom toward the transom in it's design. They modified it in later years. I think that design was to keep the bow level (low)at higher speeds. Many early BW were "tiller controlled" with the driver very far aft while driving. The "hook" compendsated for all the aft weight. I'm sure others on the forum will correct me if I'm mistaken.
keltonkrew	posted 04-02-2004 08:15 PM ET (US) Mine has a "hook" so to speak at the rear. take a look at this pic as it really shows the hull design http://users3.ev1.net/~keltonkrew/graphics/restore-34.jpg
jimh	posted 04-02-2004 08:21 PM ET (US) Kelton--I thought that your photograph of the freshly painted hull bottom was one of the best at showing the details of that hull. In particular, I had never noticed how the runners terminated abruptly. The addition of the running strakes or keels on the bottom is also clearly seen. And now that you mention it, the slight hook in the hull is also visible. It is a very good photograph for revealing these details.
ted giesel	posted 04-03-2004 12:19 PM ET (US) thanks guys, You've taken a load off my mind. I went out & took another look at my hull's bottom & sure enough the "hog" is a "hook" that extends 4-6" from the transom. Thanks again! Now, for another question on which there seem to be 2 distinct replys (& on which I'd like more opinions given the conditions I describe. To wit: my entire hull, inside & out, shows spider cracks which, in most places, go through the outer white gelcoat AND the inner cream-colored gelcoat. Opinion seems to vary about how far to sand this damage. 2 of 3 "professionals" I've contacted say they'd put several coats of new gelcoat over the cracks. (SInce that the cream-colored layer is very thin, I'm tempted by this approach, reasoning that the new, much thicker gelcoat should overpower any tendency of the cracks to cause cracking in the new layers.) The other suggested approach is to sand off everything down to the smooth black later which is immediately over the glass (any may be part of the glassing process, prime with some goo my paint store stocks, & then start putting the gelcoat on. This was suggested by the people at the paint store and a tech guy at Gougeon. I'd say that this must be the safest way to go, but....
Tom W Clark	posted 04-03-2004 12:33 PM ET (US) The "hook" in the bottom of the classic 13' Boston Whaler is there by design. Contrary to what Bob (macfam) says above, the hook remained in this hull until production of it ceased in 2000
jimh	posted 04-03-2004 12:44 PM ET (US) In my experience the laminate on a Boston Whaler boat looks like this, beginning at the surface and going inward: 1--Gel coat resin, usually off-white in color about 0.020-inch (20-mils) 2--Polyester resin and laminates, often green in color, thickness varying depending on location; thickest in the hull's keel, thinner in non-structural areas. Typically no more than 0.25-inch 3--Foam, usually white but possibly with a yellowish tint if exposed to air. If you are seeing what appears to be two colors of gel coat, it is probably due to severe oxidation and UV radiation having changed the surface of the gel coat. The gel coat layer is somewhat brittle and cannot be applied with excessive thickness else it tends to crack. Hulls that have extensive spider cracking in the gel coat are often reported. I take this as a sign of poor maintenance combined with long term exposure to UV radiation and weather. I don't have any experience to offer in resolving this. Generally the advice is usually to sand and fair the existing surface in preparation for a new protective outer layer. At this point the advice splits into two forks: re-gel coat the boat or paint the boat. I would think that before either the underlying surface would need to be faired and sanded. I would not count on filling all the cracks with paint or new gel coat, particularly if there are deep cracks.