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Author Topic:   Buffing out Outrage
PeteB88 posted 07-17-2014 01:13 AM ET (US)   Profile for PeteB88   Send Email to PeteB88  
I am about to scrub, buff and wax the Outrage. I have spent a couple of hours reading reference section and watching Youtube videos. I have a multi-speed Makita buffer, big pad and took the boat around to a couple of marine shops and Finish Masters who all recommended 3M product.

Question - do you guys remove metal strips and trip like on top of the gunwales before you buff?? Or any of the other metal assemblies like the rails? I buffed the glass around the gas filler and touched the metal with the pad and got black stuff on wool wheel.

The other thing is do pros use big wheel buffers in tight places or go small??

Could not find these answers or threads so I'm asking.

Any other advice appreciated.

THX for your help and advice.

picflight posted 07-17-2014 01:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for picflight    
I am about to commence on my buffing outrage as soon as it cools down a bit or if I can start at sunrise. Masking tape around any spot the pad can touch, rails, rub rail and small pad on tight areas should be the key. Beyond that, at least for me it will be a learn as I proceed experience.

I too have a makita rotary buffer that I have used on the console, non-skid deck as a trail and results have been satisfactory.

PeteB88 posted 07-17-2014 01:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for PeteB88  Send Email to PeteB88     
pic - what products are you using?? Thanks for reply
picflight posted 07-17-2014 08:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for picflight    
I start off with an Meguiar rubbing compound then Duragloss #501 and finally the wax.

I have done some sections with good results, waiting for the right weather to do complete the rest of the boat.

Marine "One Step" Fiberglass Restorer and Wax 3M

3M 35928 Finesse-it II Marine Glaze

DG-501 Duragloss #501 Marine/RV Polish

Collinite Paste Fleetwax

Jeff posted 07-17-2014 01:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Here are some threads on the topic

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/018179.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/020402.html

Jeff posted 07-17-2014 03:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Also,

When using a polisher around any metal fittings, railings, etc be sure and tape them off. The polisher will buff them and that will turn the polishing compound or wax black and if that gets into the nonskid pattern you will never get it out. EVER.

Binkster posted 07-19-2014 05:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for Binkster  Send Email to Binkster     
Or you can do it the easy way, forget compounds and polishes. ABRALON 6"sanding pads, look it up online. If your boat is chalky start with 500 grit, otherwise use 1000,2000,4000 grit, 2 each will do. Look Abralon up online. These sanding discs were originated for finish sanding on fine furntiture. Then then found their way into the automtive, marine and bowling industry. Buy a 6" DA air sander at Harbor Freight Tools ($29.95) I'm assuming you have a compressor with at least 5 SCFM. Basically you wet sand your hull with each disc going from lower to higher. Use soapy water. Buy these discs online or from marine fiberglass suppliers or from the pro shop at your nearest bowling center. That's where I learned about them. Bowling balls are sanded to conform to the oil pattern used on the lanes.
BTW, Gel coat sands real easy, its not hard work and seeing your reflection in your hull makes it worth the effort.

rich

Binkster posted 07-19-2014 05:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Binkster  Send Email to Binkster     
Oh, and after your done apply a coat or two of Maguires carnuba auto wax.

rich

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