posted 10-20-2014 07:15 PM ET (US)            

The boat will have to be de-rigged: everything from the console labeled and disconnected, the console removed, seating removed, fuel tank cover removed, caulk cleaned up, old tank removed, new tank installed, fuel tank cover replaced and re-caulked, seating re-installed, console re-installed, and re-rigged.

If the tank is $1,000 from FMT, you still have to pay for foam--if they're going to re-foam it in place--and other materials that might be needed in re-rigging the console. Figure a high number of $500 for various shop materials.

Depending on what your boat looks like and the equipment you have, the rest is all about time. $2,000 worth of time? At 20-man-hours at $100-per-man-hour shop rate, the estimate sounds a little high; but it could be a high estimate. I'd figure 12-man-hours max. But perhaps the local tank manufacturer is more expensive than FMT, or perhaps they are planning to do something else additional with the tank ( such as a special coatings).

Just my thoughts.

posted 10-21-2014 11:06 AM ET (US)            

cf: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/007026.html

Are you really sure the tank needs replacing? If they "smell gas" it could be hoses that need replacement or loose clamps.

posted 10-23-2014 06:50 PM ET (US)         

My boat is the 18 ft Outrage. I spoke with the boatyard that is doing the work and I have a reasonable degree of confidence end experience with them. I asked them to show me the leak and they will do so on Saturday. I spent a number of years in the Semiconductor industry developing leak detection equipment and I can probably come up with a way to stop a leak that is non structural or because of non porous material and I can think outside of the box. I will exhaust every possibility before I give them the go ahead to replace the tank.

If needed, I plan to take the boat on Saturday and drain the tank myself as I know the gas is good because I treat all my gas year round with Stabil at the 1 oz/5 gal mix. By draining the tank myself which has just under half a tank of gas in it I can save about $7 gal in disposal costs and fill up my Expedition tank which is 30 gal capacity.

posted 10-23-2014 06:59 PM ET (US)            

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/020925.html

posted 10-23-2014 07:09 PM ET (US)            

I took tank out myself, bought new, reinstalled. Around $1000 total out of pocket.

Very nice tank.

Here's more: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/020930.html

posted 10-24-2014 07:17 AM ET (US)         

I am curious as to the amount of time it took to remove and replace the tank from those who have undertaken the project.
How long did the fabricators require to build the tank?

Once I verify that the tank is leaking, I will replace it rather than repair as I want to avoid being out of commission during the prime fishing months. In the Northeast the season is so short anyway.

posted 10-24-2014 12:44 PM ET (US)         

I am still contemplating whether to get my tank from Florida Marine tank or have a local fabricator build it. The local fabricator that I have selected has done other Boston Whaler tanks and is also the go-to fabricator for the Boston Whaler dealer near me.

Costs for me to consider are:

FMT - ~$650(Aluminum Tank), ~$200 coating (optional), ~$300 (Freight)

Local Fabricator - ~$675(Aluminum Tank), Coating not provided, ~$50 in gas to delivery drawing and old tank and pickup new tank.

The amount of time needed to do this project, from all the research I have done, depends on the boat size and model.

I can speak of the '98 Outrage 17 since I have experience in exposing the tank. I estimate it to be a two day weekend job for me with some help in lifting the console, floor and tank.

I generally spend more time in ensuring that no damage occurs and do a VERY through clean up of items I open.

posted 12-28-2014 06:53 PM ET (US)         

I cut the foam completely around the tank with a hand saw but the tank does not budge. I made a special hook device and I am now removing as much foam as I possibly can all the way around. I do not have a good feel for how much pressure I can apply on the hull when prying on the tank and I am wondering what methods you may have used to free the tank from the hull.

Most of the 12 holes for the long wood screws that secure the deck cover to the hull appear to have very little thread and grip remaining. What is the best method to reinforce these holes? Epoxy or threaded inserts?

I snapped off a few of the screws that secure the tank to the hull with the three cross braces. All screws broke under the hex head. What methods are recommended to break the corrosion?

posted 12-29-2014 01:35 PM ET (US)         

This is a good time to let the open screw holes dry out. Once dried, clean the screw holes thoroughly and then using a syringe, push some thickened resin into it. You will have to drill pilot holes before screwing it back in.

Can't advise much on how the screw should be removed if the head is broken off. I had rust in one of the head screws, Phillips head, which I used a dremel with a cutting disk and grind a slot into it. I then used a flat head screw driver to get the screw out.
I replaced all the deck screws with 316 Stainless steel screws.

Pre-drilled the deck screw holes.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8587/15953766479_c249861bbe_c.jpg

This is the hole in the hull where the deck sits and deck cover screws are secured. I cleaned and filled with thickened resin and a touch of white pigment to make the filling look good even though this part is hidden.

posted 12-29-2014 10:34 PM ET (US)         

Thanks for all the info.

I need some help and I understand most of what you mean with: "Once dried, clean the screw holes thoroughly and then using a syringe, push some thickened resin into it. You will have to drill pilot holes before screwing it back in". I don't have any experience in working with fiberglass. Could you point me to where I could learn about how to make the "thickened resin"? Thanks.

As far as the broken bolts are concerned, I have experience in how to be able to grab onto to broken bolts but I have not had much success in using rust penetrants in breaking the galvanic corrosion in marine applications with anything other than heat which I can't use here, so I could use some help there.

BTW I tried to break the tank loose today with a bigger pry bar and still not able to move it at all.

posted 12-30-2014 01:45 PM ET (US)            

When I replaced the plywood on my 22 Outrage, I drilled 1/2" holes by about an inch deep where the screws were, then made a small void in the foam under the fiberglass (enlarged the inside of the hole under the fiberglass). I let the holes air-dry until spring (it was too cold for epoxy anyway). After this I poured some epoxy in the holes until they were full. When set, they were solid as can be. Then just re-drill the holes with the cover in place.

posted 12-30-2014 05:34 PM ET (US)         

The following link should give you some information on thickened resin.

www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/pb14.pdf

Working with fiberglass requires some practice. Get your hands on some polyester resin, thickening fillers like cabosil and MEKP (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide).

Your resin will have instructions on how much catalyst to add. The three items above is all you need to get started. Some gloves and acetone for clean is also necessary.

posted 01-02-2015 01:18 AM ET (US)            

The ratchet was able to pop the tank loose after removing sufficient foam around the sides.

I have seen other posts where piano wire was used to slice thru the foam.

Hope that helps.

posted 01-15-2015 07:42 PM ET (US)            

Following an inspection of the fuel tank I may have to employ that same method of fuel tank removal on my most recent acquisition.

http://s389.photobucket.com/user/Nantucket_Sleighride/media/ P1140011_zps2665d68d.jpg.html?sort=6&o=98

On Monday (1/12/2015) I picked-up a 1988 Boston Whaler Guardian 18' in Denver Colorado. It was a Patrol Boat for the Colorado Parks Department. They retired their 80's vintage Boston Whalers and purchased new Boston Whalers.
I plan on giving this boat the full pilot house treatment.

All the very best to you and your family.

posted 03-02-2015 12:48 PM ET (US)         

I ended up spanning a pair of 2 x 6 across the gunnels about 16" above the gunnels and with a 2 ton comealong I was able to break the tank from the foam bond loose. I estimate that I was approaching the limits of the comealong before the tank broke loose.

I got a nice Solidworks file from Luther's fabrication in Rhode Island and will most likely have them fabricate the new tank after I verify all the dimensions.

posted 03-05-2015 07:29 AM ET (US)         

I read somewhere that rubber, because of the carbon content, in contact with aluminum or stainless increases galvanic action. What alternatives are there for the rubber strip at the bottom and under the three support brackets on top of the tank?

posted 03-16-2015 04:58 PM ET (US)            

Since it looked like life jacket foam, I got a fairly new orange life jacket and cut it open. Sure enough, there were like 20 of these pieces in there and not glued, but layered. I can't say for certain if it was exactly what I removed, but it looked to me to be EXACTLY the same type of white material I removed. I simply separated these vest pieces, took scissors and trimmed to fit and installed where the others were in the same way I found them. I actually had to cut a second vest open, as I didn't have enough, but the extra I had afterward went under the top gunnel edge of my dive door for flotation, which works great in the swimming pool....yep, it floats. OK, That's how I did it...

I reused the long rubber piece that was there. Be advised that you should evaluate materials yourself, maybe ask Whaler, and then make your own informed decision on such materials....don't take my word for it, my strategy and plan was my own opinion, and there are plenty of those (opinions) to learn from.

I did not see any corrosion on my aluminum tank where it touched this black rubber, and I believe my tank was original. I DID have serious salt corrosion on the sides and rear of the old tank...wow, could stick you pinky finger through the corroded metal, never seen anything this bad, ever. EVER...., what I mess. Only thing holding the fuel from coming out was the closed cell foam, and to me, that speaks volumes about the quality of the foam whaler used.

I laid the new USCG tank in place, and secured it with the 3 aluminum cross braces. Note that I went on eBay and bought some black 2" wide rubber and cut it to fit...and replace...the old rubber under the aluminum braces....this original rubber that I removed was pretty ugly.

Following this, I bought the pour in foam (2 part, mix it and pour quickly), and filled the edges until it came out the top enough, but low enough to allow the floor to go back in. I did have to take a knife and trim some that was sticking up like an Elvis hairdo. Thank you very much. Heh heh

Ok, that's my 2 cents worth. I used new USCG approved fuel hoses, and installed all new tin plated copper wire for grounding wires, as original.

It cost me about a grand after the dust settled...tank was like $845. Took awhile to do all of this, but I know what I have now is very good quality as I took my time and used good materials. Hope this info is helpful.