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Author Topic:   2014 Mercury 90-HP: Shift Problems

robert1947 posted 12-28-2014 04:59 PM ET (US)
Hello. Please help with this shifting problem. I'm having shifting problems with my new 2014 Boston Whaler Montauk 170 with the usual Mercury 90-HP outboard: with the engine running, I can't feel or hear that I'm in Neutral at the remote controls. I find I'm in Reverse about 5-percent of the time, when in fact I should be in Neutral. For more background information, please read on.
Every time I shift into Neutral, I must stare down at the controls, and make a conscious decision about whether or not I'm in Neutral, before I leave the controls. And even with that amount of effort, I am not sure that in fact I'm in Neutral. When I fish, I often walk away from the center console. So, this is very much a safety concern.
Half my fishing is along the pilings and rock islands of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. The tidal currents are very strong, and ocean swells have the tendency to push the boat onto the boulders. I fish there alone, occasionally at night, summer, fall, and winter. I shift a lot. Every shift to Neutral can't have so much uncertainty!
When demo-ing the boat just before signing a purchase contract, I commented to the sales rep this fact that "I can't feel Neutral." I then said. "With time I'll get used to Mercury's shift lever." Well, time has passed after four outings. I still have the same complaint. I've spoken to both Mercury's Tech Support and Boston Whaler's Tech Support. Mercury says that with the engine running, there's "engine back pressure" or something like that, where there's less feel of Neutral. Well, I need it very clear that the engine is in the Neutral slot.
Once when attempting to start the engine, the engine would not start. The lever was well within the markings for Neutral, but the safety switch determined the engine was in Forward.
I do have plenty of experience with boats. A short list of experience is as follows: 2-1/2 years as a boat rigger, including rigging 60 Boston Whalers 18-feet0long with Mercury outboards which were sold to the US Navy back in the late 1970's and owning and rigging an 18-foot Polarkraft aluminum 7-foot-wide boat with a Honda 40-HP tiller handle for the past 10 years. Two years ago I had that aluminum boat's ribs welded in 44 places due to stress fractures. This year it was welded in only 3 places. This is the reason I went to fiberglass in 2014. I feel I'm a fair handyman repairing electro-mechanical items in homes, cars, and boats. I've operated inboards, 30-footers and 65-footers, but have little experience operating smaller outboards via remote control shifting. So, I don't think that lack of experience on my part, is the cause. An operator should need very little experience to feel safe with this engine and controls.
At the end of October 2014 this new rig was purchased out-of-state 400 miles away from where I live. The dealership was discontinuing this line of boats. Both Mercury and Boston Whaler's Tech Support say, "There's no problem." A local Boston Whaler dealership, where I had not purchased the boat, had my boat sitting at their facility for 14 days, a Tuesday to a Tuesday, and had not started up the engine nor looked into this problem during that time. So, on day 14, I asked for and took the boat back home. No warranty paperwork was filled out. After that, a local authorized Mercury shop found no shifting problems when the engine was running with an attached garden hose. In this environment I could feel Neutral. This was not warranty work and cost me $110.
I've researched installing a Teleflex Morse control unit, the type with two levers. One lever controls shifting only, the second lever controls throttle only. I was advised by the Mercury shop that I would probably still feel no Neutral slot. Also, as a generalization, no one has been installing these controls on outboards for the last 40 years. To have an authorized Mercury shop do this work would cost approximately $1,200. If this were a 10-year-old boat, I'd do the work myself. But with warranties still in effect, a retail customer shouldn't do this carving up oneself.
Next, I'd like to know if Mercury has had control units in the past that have a locking mechanism with a button that must be depressed in order to get out of Neutral. I believe other manufacturers have such a button. An older control unit may solve my problem. Do you have any comments about an older Mercury control unit as a solution? What years would that be?
If I could return the entire rig, boat, motor, and trailer, maybe I would do it. If I could return the engine and controls, and select a different manufacturer, I would absolutely do that. If this shifting problem doesn't get resolved very soon, I'm planning to sell that two month old Mercury 90-HP, and buy an engine from another manufacturer. Of course, I'll test the engine and controls, out in the water. The control box must have a very clearly felt Neutral slot, and a button should be pressed to shift out of Neutral? My guess is that Mercury's Marketing Department had Mercury's engineers design this propulsion system with the jet ski mentality in mind, not the boating needs of the more sedate fisherman. I wish I could buy an American engine and controls, but it appears that I can't.
My wife just found several posts from approximately 2006 on ContinuousWave.com that clearly reported this same problem. But there're no posts since then. Those posts wrote about Mercury's controls lacking a shift detent and lacking a shift lock. One post commented on a "lack of a built-in mechanical detent to assist in locating the neutral shift position", and "the shifter freely moves between forward, neutral, and reverse, with no latch, button, or locking device". This is my exact complaint! And what's happened since 2006? This is not a mechanical malfunction. This is intentional design, that puts me in real danger!
Does anyone else have these same complaints with Mercury's shifting with the 2014 models?
This is the first time ever that I've posted to an online forum. So my response posts back to you may not go smoothly.
Thanks, Robert.
jimh posted 12-28-2014 06:22 PM ET (US)
I can't offer any real help with resolution of your extreme disappointment in the feel and performance of the mechanical remote controls for your Mercury outboard engine. I don't know exactly which model of Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE you have. There have been about four different models with that designator. By 2014 I would assume the engine you have is an all-Mercury design, using all-Mercury components, and the same for the remote controls and connecting cables. It is alarming to hear of the vague and indistinct shifting of the engine. In the past, when a Mercury outboard engine shifted gears the shift was usually announced by a very loud clashing and grinding noise, and perhaps boaters came to rely on that sound cue to let them know the gears had shifted.
Problems in shifting with mechanical controls can be exacerbated by stretching of the control cables. I don't know what sort of control cable have been used in your 2014 Boston Whaler. These control cables are usually sold in several tiers. The best control cables can make a difference.
jimh posted 12-28-2014 08:30 PM ET (US)
For more background on problems with Mercury 90-HP outboard engines and poor remote control shifting, see
Trouble Shifting Mercury Four-cycle Motor
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014496.html
Mercury To Replace Poor Shifting 90-HP Four-stroke
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/011780.html
170 Montauk: Mercury 90-HP Four-stroke
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/002084.html
fishinchips posted 12-28-2014 08:34 PM ET (US)
Yeah, I hear you on that. I am not too impressed with mercury shifter also.
My 170 with the merc shifter it did took some time to get used to.
Now, my 190 has the same shifter and its a little bit better. Not much. I have gotten used to it.
Now, the other brands (yamaha and omc/brb) you know when there in neutral. No doubt what so ever.
Ken
swist posted 12-29-2014 03:50 PM ET (US)
As an owner of a 2005 version of that shifter, and a contributor to many threads on the subject over the years, my question is:
Why does this not get fixed?
endus posted 12-29-2014 05:02 PM ET (US)
I noticed this on the Mercury 90 on my 2004 170 as well. Since I've driven launch in a Montauk before I was able to (mostly) get used to the poor feel when shifting into neutral and then reverse when docking, but the shifter on the boat I drove launch in was much better. It has been a major obstacle in my wife being able to land the boat herself, though.
We're putting in an e-tec this winter so hopefully this is behind me, but I definitely recognize the issue!
macfam posted 12-30-2014 09:33 AM ET (US)
I've taken control of two separate 170 with 2 different year Mercury 90 4-stokes. When docking(with 40+ years of outboard experience) the shift F-N-R was a nightmare. Horrible!!!
I could not tell when I was in neutral either!
I predict that this will end up in tragedy! Someone will get backed over while using the swim platform after skiing, tubing or swimming.
Then Brunswick will get sued and will turn to it's vast legal team to keep them out of a huge settlement.
Document, document, document all communication with any Boston Whaler/Mercury entity regarding this issue.
AND COPY THE BRUSNWICK CORP LEGAL DEPT.
It may be the only language they understand.
jimh posted 12-31-2014 09:57 AM ET (US)
In the past, with most outboard engines using two-cycle designs and very simple fuel induction with carburetors, when an engine was shifted out of gear and into neutral, the engine idle speed usually increased. The engine idle speed was sensitive to load, and, when shifted to neutral, these older outboard engines would typical increase their idle speed several hundred RPM. The shift in engine speed when in neutral was probably acting as a cue to the operator that the engine had been taken out of gear.
With modern engines like a recent-model Mercury FOURSTROKE, the engine speed is likely to be better controlled at idle. I don't know this for a fact, but I suspect that the engine speed of a modern Mercury FOURSTROKE engine may not change much at all when shifted into neutral from forward at minimum throttle. As a result, the operator may not be getting any cue from the engine speed or engine sound that a shift has occurred. Perhaps this accounts for some of the difficulty being reported with Mercury FOURSTROKE engines being vague and uncertain about the shift to neutral.
ASIDE: On my boat I have a modern engine, although still a two-cycle. The engine speed is very well controlled at idle. I do not notice any sort of jump in engine speed when shifting in and out of gear at minimum throttle. The engine uses very advance electronic controls and direct injection.
Also, my engine has electronic shift and throttle. At the helm controls, there are three annunciator lamps for the gear position. These lamps illuminate to clearly identify for the operator the position of the shift in F-N-R. The combination of electronic shift and these annunciator lamps gives the operator very clear and certain indication of the position of the shift at all times.
AZdave posted 12-31-2014 02:25 PM ET (US)
We have the same Montauk 170 with a Mercury 90hp outboard. It would be hard to overstate the lack of feedback from the shifter. I had the cable replaced, but there was no improvement other than easier motion of the shifter. One hint: I can usually hear a faint whine from the lower unit when it is in neutral. It's not great, but better than nothing.
robert1947 posted 01-07-2015 01:47 PM ET (US)
Any day now I’ll be ordering new controls. These controls will have a shift lock, unlike Mercury, with no shift lock. These controls are supposed to easily connect to the existing 2014 Mercury cables without adaptors.

I had changed my mind several times whether to sell the 2 month old engine or only replace the controls. I was not finding any appropriate controls out on the market. Dealerships and authorized outboard shops were no help. They just say there’s no problem, and charge me. Finally,after researching Morse controls, which I was familiar with from the 1970’s, I finally found the solution, though on my own. I had my engine up for sale at that time, and just stopped a possible sale.

What I needed is a control unit with the following:
--detent lock
--shift lock.
--throttle only button.
--emergency engine shut off switch and lanyard.
--start-in-gear protection.
--sither two single function levers or one dual function lever;If a dual function lever, then that lever should be on the right side of the binnacle.
The solution os to replace the Mercury controls with controls from SeaStarSolutions.com. Model# CH7551P. This has a shift lock, throttle only button, start-in-gear protection, and one dual function lever on the right side of the binnacle. The cost for parts only, online, is approximately $360.
Morse got bought out by Teleflex. Then Teleflex changed its name to SeaStar Solutions Inc. The hydraulic steering on this boat was made by SeaStar Solutions Inc.
Anyone out there see any problems with what I’m about to do? I know the hole in the console will probably need to be filled-in to some degree. Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this? I’ll report back in about a month after I make the installation myself. I do believe these new SeaStar controls should solve my [disappointment with the feel of the Mercury shift controls].
jimh posted 01-08-2015 10:21 AM ET (US)
I can't offer any first-hand experience with the particular model and brand of remote throttle and shift controls you are planning to use as replacements for the Mercury-brand throttle and shift controls for your Mercury FOURSTROKE 90-HP engine. In general, Teleflex--now SeaStar Solutions--has a very good reputation, but mostly in steering components. I anticipate their mechanical remote controls for throttle and shift will be similarly well-designed and well-made.
Will the original mechanical cables linking the controls to the engine be replaced, too?
sosmerc posted 01-08-2015 05:31 PM ET (US)
It would be helpful if the engine serial number was posted. I would like to confirm that there is indeed an adjustable "detent" back on the engine. The last few newer Mercs that I have run seemed to shift MUCH better than past models due to changes inside the lower unit. I do not believe that the owner should have to put up with an engine that is extremely "tricky" to shift. I believe this particular owner does indeed have a problem that is fixable.
swist posted 01-09-2015 11:10 AM ET (US)
And do we owners of 2005 versions of that shifter/engine have a fixable problem?
endus posted 01-09-2015 03:44 PM ET (US)
I always thought that the problem was a lack of, or at least could be solved by, detents. I think back to shifting dinghy outboards and there was feedback there, so *maybe* the improved feel on other motors is coming through the cable from the engine itself, but I don't think so. It's been many years but I am pretty sure there were detents in the shifter itself on the Whaler I drove launch in.
What makes matters worse is its hard to tell when you're actually in gear as well. It's too easy to half engage the gear and get some ugly noises. There should be enough of a stop in there that you can smoothly and confidently shift from neutral into gear without waffling half way there.
I haven't told my wife about this thread yet. This is her first experience boating so she has enough challenges to deal with learning the ropes...she will be happy to hear its not just her that has this particular problem.
robert1947 posted 01-21-2015 02:20 PM ET (US)
I installed the new control unit Jan 2015. SeaStar Solutions Inc model# CH7551P. This unit has the shift “interlock”. I tested this new unit out on the water yesterday. My shift problems are now resolved. I can now shift and have confidence that I’m in Neutral and not Reverse. I RECOMMEND THIS CHANGE.

A good backyard mechanic can do this removal and installation. Some notes are as follows:
>> The SeaStar control unit, as compared to the replaced Mercury unit, has more width and less length at your mounting surface. The SeaStar unit does not cover up the Mercury holes. I have the habit of making my changes reversible. So, instead of filling in the holes, a more permanent repair, I made a cover plate from high density poly ethylene board, ¼” thick. It doesn’t look that good. But I could easily put back in, the old Mercury controls, with no new drilling and no new patch work.
>> The electrical wiring is straight forward. There’s a Red-Blue-Green wiring harness for trim/tilt. There’re two Yellow wires for the neutral safety switch.
>> The mechanical connections inside the control unit are poorly written in the installation manual. This took me some time to figure out. But SeaStar’s tech support over the phone helped me thru this.
>> The shift cable and throttle cable are disconnected at the engine before making the mechanical connections within the control unit. When it came time to reconnect these cables at the engine, the cable ends lined up perfectly so, I made no length adjustment to these cables. But if needed, these cable end adjustments are easy to do.
>> When the unit is on the workbench and you’re playing around with the lever arm, keep your fingers of your other hand away from other moving parts.
>> The friction adjustment screw is unreasonably difficult to access. Tech support said I probably would not need to fiddle with this screw. That was true. But should you, then get a Philips screw driver with a minimal diameter shaft, or grind down the diameter of a cheap screw driver at the problem place.

Hopefully you won’t hear from me again about this subject. Robert.

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Author	Topic: 2014 Mercury 90-HP: Shift Problems
robert1947	posted 12-28-2014 04:59 PM ET (US) Hello. Please help with this shifting problem. I'm having shifting problems with my new 2014 Boston Whaler Montauk 170 with the usual Mercury 90-HP outboard: with the engine running, I can't feel or hear that I'm in Neutral at the remote controls. I find I'm in Reverse about 5-percent of the time, when in fact I should be in Neutral. For more background information, please read on. Every time I shift into Neutral, I must stare down at the controls, and make a conscious decision about whether or not I'm in Neutral, before I leave the controls. And even with that amount of effort, I am not sure that in fact I'm in Neutral. When I fish, I often walk away from the center console. So, this is very much a safety concern. Half my fishing is along the pilings and rock islands of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. The tidal currents are very strong, and ocean swells have the tendency to push the boat onto the boulders. I fish there alone, occasionally at night, summer, fall, and winter. I shift a lot. Every shift to Neutral can't have so much uncertainty! When demo-ing the boat just before signing a purchase contract, I commented to the sales rep this fact that "I can't feel Neutral." I then said. "With time I'll get used to Mercury's shift lever." Well, time has passed after four outings. I still have the same complaint. I've spoken to both Mercury's Tech Support and Boston Whaler's Tech Support. Mercury says that with the engine running, there's "engine back pressure" or something like that, where there's less feel of Neutral. Well, I need it very clear that the engine is in the Neutral slot. Once when attempting to start the engine, the engine would not start. The lever was well within the markings for Neutral, but the safety switch determined the engine was in Forward. I do have plenty of experience with boats. A short list of experience is as follows: 2-1/2 years as a boat rigger, including rigging 60 Boston Whalers 18-feet0long with Mercury outboards which were sold to the US Navy back in the late 1970's and owning and rigging an 18-foot Polarkraft aluminum 7-foot-wide boat with a Honda 40-HP tiller handle for the past 10 years. Two years ago I had that aluminum boat's ribs welded in 44 places due to stress fractures. This year it was welded in only 3 places. This is the reason I went to fiberglass in 2014. I feel I'm a fair handyman repairing electro-mechanical items in homes, cars, and boats. I've operated inboards, 30-footers and 65-footers, but have little experience operating smaller outboards via remote control shifting. So, I don't think that lack of experience on my part, is the cause. An operator should need very little experience to feel safe with this engine and controls. At the end of October 2014 this new rig was purchased out-of-state 400 miles away from where I live. The dealership was discontinuing this line of boats. Both Mercury and Boston Whaler's Tech Support say, "There's no problem." A local Boston Whaler dealership, where I had not purchased the boat, had my boat sitting at their facility for 14 days, a Tuesday to a Tuesday, and had not started up the engine nor looked into this problem during that time. So, on day 14, I asked for and took the boat back home. No warranty paperwork was filled out. After that, a local authorized Mercury shop found no shifting problems when the engine was running with an attached garden hose. In this environment I could feel Neutral. This was not warranty work and cost me $110. I've researched installing a Teleflex Morse control unit, the type with two levers. One lever controls shifting only, the second lever controls throttle only. I was advised by the Mercury shop that I would probably still feel no Neutral slot. Also, as a generalization, no one has been installing these controls on outboards for the last 40 years. To have an authorized Mercury shop do this work would cost approximately $1,200. If this were a 10-year-old boat, I'd do the work myself. But with warranties still in effect, a retail customer shouldn't do this carving up oneself. Next, I'd like to know if Mercury has had control units in the past that have a locking mechanism with a button that must be depressed in order to get out of Neutral. I believe other manufacturers have such a button. An older control unit may solve my problem. Do you have any comments about an older Mercury control unit as a solution? What years would that be? If I could return the entire rig, boat, motor, and trailer, maybe I would do it. If I could return the engine and controls, and select a different manufacturer, I would absolutely do that. If this shifting problem doesn't get resolved very soon, I'm planning to sell that two month old Mercury 90-HP, and buy an engine from another manufacturer. Of course, I'll test the engine and controls, out in the water. The control box must have a very clearly felt Neutral slot, and a button should be pressed to shift out of Neutral? My guess is that Mercury's Marketing Department had Mercury's engineers design this propulsion system with the jet ski mentality in mind, not the boating needs of the more sedate fisherman. I wish I could buy an American engine and controls, but it appears that I can't. My wife just found several posts from approximately 2006 on ContinuousWave.com that clearly reported this same problem. But there're no posts since then. Those posts wrote about Mercury's controls lacking a shift detent and lacking a shift lock. One post commented on a "lack of a built-in mechanical detent to assist in locating the neutral shift position", and "the shifter freely moves between forward, neutral, and reverse, with no latch, button, or locking device". This is my exact complaint! And what's happened since 2006? This is not a mechanical malfunction. This is intentional design, that puts me in real danger! Does anyone else have these same complaints with Mercury's shifting with the 2014 models? This is the first time ever that I've posted to an online forum. So my response posts back to you may not go smoothly. Thanks, Robert.
jimh	posted 12-28-2014 06:22 PM ET (US) I can't offer any real help with resolution of your extreme disappointment in the feel and performance of the mechanical remote controls for your Mercury outboard engine. I don't know exactly which model of Mercury 90-HP FOURSTROKE you have. There have been about four different models with that designator. By 2014 I would assume the engine you have is an all-Mercury design, using all-Mercury components, and the same for the remote controls and connecting cables. It is alarming to hear of the vague and indistinct shifting of the engine. In the past, when a Mercury outboard engine shifted gears the shift was usually announced by a very loud clashing and grinding noise, and perhaps boaters came to rely on that sound cue to let them know the gears had shifted. Problems in shifting with mechanical controls can be exacerbated by stretching of the control cables. I don't know what sort of control cable have been used in your 2014 Boston Whaler. These control cables are usually sold in several tiers. The best control cables can make a difference.
jimh	posted 12-28-2014 08:30 PM ET (US) For more background on problems with Mercury 90-HP outboard engines and poor remote control shifting, see Trouble Shifting Mercury Four-cycle Motor http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014496.html Mercury To Replace Poor Shifting 90-HP Four-stroke http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/011780.html 170 Montauk: Mercury 90-HP Four-stroke http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/002084.html
fishinchips	posted 12-28-2014 08:34 PM ET (US) Yeah, I hear you on that. I am not too impressed with mercury shifter also. My 170 with the merc shifter it did took some time to get used to. Now, my 190 has the same shifter and its a little bit better. Not much. I have gotten used to it. Now, the other brands (yamaha and omc/brb) you know when there in neutral. No doubt what so ever. Ken
swist	posted 12-29-2014 03:50 PM ET (US) As an owner of a 2005 version of that shifter, and a contributor to many threads on the subject over the years, my question is: Why does this not get fixed?
endus	posted 12-29-2014 05:02 PM ET (US) I noticed this on the Mercury 90 on my 2004 170 as well. Since I've driven launch in a Montauk before I was able to (mostly) get used to the poor feel when shifting into neutral and then reverse when docking, but the shifter on the boat I drove launch in was much better. It has been a major obstacle in my wife being able to land the boat herself, though. We're putting in an e-tec this winter so hopefully this is behind me, but I definitely recognize the issue!
macfam	posted 12-30-2014 09:33 AM ET (US) I've taken control of two separate 170 with 2 different year Mercury 90 4-stokes. When docking(with 40+ years of outboard experience) the shift F-N-R was a nightmare. Horrible!!! I could not tell when I was in neutral either! I predict that this will end up in tragedy! Someone will get backed over while using the swim platform after skiing, tubing or swimming. Then Brunswick will get sued and will turn to it's vast legal team to keep them out of a huge settlement. Document, document, document all communication with any Boston Whaler/Mercury entity regarding this issue. AND COPY THE BRUSNWICK CORP LEGAL DEPT. It may be the only language they understand.
jimh	posted 12-31-2014 09:57 AM ET (US) In the past, with most outboard engines using two-cycle designs and very simple fuel induction with carburetors, when an engine was shifted out of gear and into neutral, the engine idle speed usually increased. The engine idle speed was sensitive to load, and, when shifted to neutral, these older outboard engines would typical increase their idle speed several hundred RPM. The shift in engine speed when in neutral was probably acting as a cue to the operator that the engine had been taken out of gear. With modern engines like a recent-model Mercury FOURSTROKE, the engine speed is likely to be better controlled at idle. I don't know this for a fact, but I suspect that the engine speed of a modern Mercury FOURSTROKE engine may not change much at all when shifted into neutral from forward at minimum throttle. As a result, the operator may not be getting any cue from the engine speed or engine sound that a shift has occurred. Perhaps this accounts for some of the difficulty being reported with Mercury FOURSTROKE engines being vague and uncertain about the shift to neutral. ASIDE: On my boat I have a modern engine, although still a two-cycle. The engine speed is very well controlled at idle. I do not notice any sort of jump in engine speed when shifting in and out of gear at minimum throttle. The engine uses very advance electronic controls and direct injection. Also, my engine has electronic shift and throttle. At the helm controls, there are three annunciator lamps for the gear position. These lamps illuminate to clearly identify for the operator the position of the shift in F-N-R. The combination of electronic shift and these annunciator lamps gives the operator very clear and certain indication of the position of the shift at all times.
AZdave	posted 12-31-2014 02:25 PM ET (US) We have the same Montauk 170 with a Mercury 90hp outboard. It would be hard to overstate the lack of feedback from the shifter. I had the cable replaced, but there was no improvement other than easier motion of the shifter. One hint: I can usually hear a faint whine from the lower unit when it is in neutral. It's not great, but better than nothing.
robert1947	posted 01-07-2015 01:47 PM ET (US) Any day now I’ll be ordering new controls. These controls will have a shift lock, unlike Mercury, with no shift lock. These controls are supposed to easily connect to the existing 2014 Mercury cables without adaptors. I had changed my mind several times whether to sell the 2 month old engine or only replace the controls. I was not finding any appropriate controls out on the market. Dealerships and authorized outboard shops were no help. They just say there’s no problem, and charge me. Finally,after researching Morse controls, which I was familiar with from the 1970’s, I finally found the solution, though on my own. I had my engine up for sale at that time, and just stopped a possible sale. What I needed is a control unit with the following: --detent lock --shift lock. --throttle only button. --emergency engine shut off switch and lanyard. --start-in-gear protection. --sither two single function levers or one dual function lever;If a dual function lever, then that lever should be on the right side of the binnacle. The solution os to replace the Mercury controls with controls from SeaStarSolutions.com. Model# CH7551P. This has a shift lock, throttle only button, start-in-gear protection, and one dual function lever on the right side of the binnacle. The cost for parts only, online, is approximately $360. Morse got bought out by Teleflex. Then Teleflex changed its name to SeaStar Solutions Inc. The hydraulic steering on this boat was made by SeaStar Solutions Inc. Anyone out there see any problems with what I’m about to do? I know the hole in the console will probably need to be filled-in to some degree. Any suggestions on the easiest way to do this? I’ll report back in about a month after I make the installation myself. I do believe these new SeaStar controls should solve my [disappointment with the feel of the Mercury shift controls].
jimh	posted 01-08-2015 10:21 AM ET (US) I can't offer any first-hand experience with the particular model and brand of remote throttle and shift controls you are planning to use as replacements for the Mercury-brand throttle and shift controls for your Mercury FOURSTROKE 90-HP engine. In general, Teleflex--now SeaStar Solutions--has a very good reputation, but mostly in steering components. I anticipate their mechanical remote controls for throttle and shift will be similarly well-designed and well-made. Will the original mechanical cables linking the controls to the engine be replaced, too?
sosmerc	posted 01-08-2015 05:31 PM ET (US) It would be helpful if the engine serial number was posted. I would like to confirm that there is indeed an adjustable "detent" back on the engine. The last few newer Mercs that I have run seemed to shift MUCH better than past models due to changes inside the lower unit. I do not believe that the owner should have to put up with an engine that is extremely "tricky" to shift. I believe this particular owner does indeed have a problem that is fixable.
swist	posted 01-09-2015 11:10 AM ET (US) And do we owners of 2005 versions of that shifter/engine have a fixable problem?
endus	posted 01-09-2015 03:44 PM ET (US) I always thought that the problem was a lack of, or at least could be solved by, detents. I think back to shifting dinghy outboards and there was feedback there, so maybe the improved feel on other motors is coming through the cable from the engine itself, but I don't think so. It's been many years but I am pretty sure there were detents in the shifter itself on the Whaler I drove launch in. What makes matters worse is its hard to tell when you're actually in gear as well. It's too easy to half engage the gear and get some ugly noises. There should be enough of a stop in there that you can smoothly and confidently shift from neutral into gear without waffling half way there. I haven't told my wife about this thread yet. This is her first experience boating so she has enough challenges to deal with learning the ropes...she will be happy to hear its not just her that has this particular problem.
robert1947	posted 01-21-2015 02:20 PM ET (US) I installed the new control unit Jan 2015. SeaStar Solutions Inc model# CH7551P. This unit has the shift “interlock”. I tested this new unit out on the water yesterday. My shift problems are now resolved. I can now shift and have confidence that I’m in Neutral and not Reverse. I RECOMMEND THIS CHANGE. A good backyard mechanic can do this removal and installation. Some notes are as follows: >> The SeaStar control unit, as compared to the replaced Mercury unit, has more width and less length at your mounting surface. The SeaStar unit does not cover up the Mercury holes. I have the habit of making my changes reversible. So, instead of filling in the holes, a more permanent repair, I made a cover plate from high density poly ethylene board, ¼” thick. It doesn’t look that good. But I could easily put back in, the old Mercury controls, with no new drilling and no new patch work. >> The electrical wiring is straight forward. There’s a Red-Blue-Green wiring harness for trim/tilt. There’re two Yellow wires for the neutral safety switch. >> The mechanical connections inside the control unit are poorly written in the installation manual. This took me some time to figure out. But SeaStar’s tech support over the phone helped me thru this. >> The shift cable and throttle cable are disconnected at the engine before making the mechanical connections within the control unit. When it came time to reconnect these cables at the engine, the cable ends lined up perfectly so, I made no length adjustment to these cables. But if needed, these cable end adjustments are easy to do. >> When the unit is on the workbench and you’re playing around with the lever arm, keep your fingers of your other hand away from other moving parts. >> The friction adjustment screw is unreasonably difficult to access. Tech support said I probably would not need to fiddle with this screw. That was true. But should you, then get a Philips screw driver with a minimal diameter shaft, or grind down the diameter of a cheap screw driver at the problem place. Hopefully you won’t hear from me again about this subject. Robert.