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  2014 Montauk 170 Fuel Tank upgrade to 22 gallon.

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Author Topic:   2014 Montauk 170 Fuel Tank upgrade to 22 gallon.
robert1947 posted 02-08-2015 03:42 PM ET (US)   Profile for robert1947   Send Email to robert1947  
I’m about to purchase a Moeller 22 gallon fuel tank to replace the two current 6 gallon tanks. It would be appreciated, if anyone with this experience, would comment on any problems and helpful pointers.

The tank is Moeller’s 22 gallon top-side tank, product# 031626BR (EPA version). Moeller advertizes this tank “Specifically designed for use in Boston Whaler Montauk 15’ and 17’ consoles.” This tank costs double the amount as compared to the 031626 (the non-EPA version). The EPA version has a lower gasoline permeation rate as compared to the non-EPA version. I will pay the extra money for the lower permeation rate. I don’t like the smell of gas fumes when out on the water. Between 2004 and 2013, I installed three 12 gallon red top-side plastic tanks in my prior boat. That’s every four years, I replaced the fuel tank. I thought I had a leaky fuel level window on the first tank. With the second tank, I ran a vent hose from the tank’s filler cap to the transom. Eventually, I learned about gasoline permeation across the cross-lined polyethylene tank walls. This permeation had been the problem for the first two tanks.

Are there any known problems with this new tank’s structure? For example, the fill neck cracking at the junction with the tank top? There may be a membrane inside the tank wall. Any known problems with tank wall delamination?

I’ll be installing the new tank 031626BR with Moeller’s strap kit, and not Moeller’s permanent hold down kit. I prefer installations where items can be removed easily.

I’ll not be using the tanks fuel gauge pick-up port. I’ll prefer the simplicity of a wooden dip stick thru the filler hole.

My understanding is that the installer should allow for a three-percent expansion of the outside dimensions of the tank. This is due to thermal expansion. If I install this tank in 40-degrees-F, then the tank should slide slightly within its hold down brackets?

I’ve read somewhere that neoprene padding should be laid down at all tank wall contact points. Any comments? I’m not familiar with neoprene padding.

Thanks Robert.

contender posted 02-08-2015 10:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for contender  Send Email to contender     
Measure for a custom aluminum fuel tank and you will never have any of the problems you have stated. Have the tank made out of 0.125-inch thick aluminum. You can have the tank powered coated to any color you wish, You can have your fuel fill, fuel vent, gauge (I prefer the manual gauge), fuel pick up located anywhere you want or need on the tank. These tanks can take any type of fuel, they are safer, and with last you a life time. Do not use neoprene padding, if you spill fuel the the neoprene will hold it, the neoprene will stay wet next to the tank, Use Dri Deck (comes in one-foot squares that snap together cost about $6 a square) and cut them to fit, they come in four colors the tank will be off the deck, it will stay dry, fuel spills can be wash out from underneath. Trust me on this one.
Freddy posted 02-08-2015 10:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Freddy  Send Email to Freddy     
You might enjoy this thread.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/018886.html

blacksmithdog posted 02-14-2015 08:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for blacksmithdog  Send Email to blacksmithdog     
I have that tank on my 2006 Montauk. There are really no issues in installing it. I used straps on both sides. I used a better quality webbing than the strap kit came with, with two piece snaps on both straps. I tightened the straps before I snapped them, a bit of trial and error on the proper length to get them as tight as possible.

No complaints on the tank.

timf posted 02-15-2015 02:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for timf  Send Email to timf     
Hi. I just installed the same Moeller tank and will try it out this weekend. I also used straps and am very happy with the way it turned out. The tank comes with a fuel gauge installed that you can read from behind the RPS when the tank is installed.

I wanted the tank as far forward as possible to keep weight forward and protrude less into the back area of the boat. To do this I had to move the fuel line forward three inches where it comes out of the floor. This was a little tedious work for me and required some drilling, cutting and resealing. Now the fuel line comes up just into the raised berm for the seat so that it allows the tank to move forward. Another option might be to move the line a few inches to the starboard. The rigging tunnel four-inch-PVC pipe runs from the stern starboard, where the access cover is to the console, passing just under where the fuel line comes up under the seat.

For your brackets you screw down, the front two will screw into solid backing material. The rear two just go into fiberglass floor. So be care with the back screws. Good luck.

deepwater posted 02-16-2015 01:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for deepwater  Send Email to deepwater     
I had a tank built for my 1989 Montauk. Maxed-out in size it was 34 gallons including oil.
timf posted 05-06-2015 11:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for timf  Send Email to timf     
Did you ever order the tank or something different?

I am still using the same thing and no regrets. The extra capacity is a great advantage in terms of range.

Although the built in fuel gauge works good, I may install one on the console if I find one that matches the others well...

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