posted 12-06-2009 07:41 PM ET (US)        

This new Moeller tank of course is made to fit under the RPS but, it also has a couple other nice features. One is the tank was designed with a fuel fill that is angled back and gives you great clearance behind the seat cushion for filling. It also allows the gauge to be read easily. The best thing is the tank is made in white which will not fade over time (like the red turning pink from UV).

Here are a couple images (click on them to view full scale):
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Misc%20Whaler/ ?action=view¤t=DSC_9960.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Misc%20Whaler/ ?action=view¤t=DSC_9958.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Misc%20Whaler/ ?action=view¤t=DSC_9959.jpg&t=1260146428782

posted 12-06-2009 09:39 PM ET (US)         

Moeller Product # 031626 Listed at $199.95 at an on-line seller. It's beginning to look a Lot like Christmas....!

(Thanks Jeff)

posted 12-11-2009 11:10 PM ET (US)            

"183.501 Applicability.
(a) This subpart applies to all boats that have gasoline engines, except outboard engines, for electrical generation, mechanical power, or propulsion."

"183.620 Natural ventilation system.
(a) Except for compartments open to the atmosphere, a natural ventilation system that meets the requirements of Sec. 183.630 must be provided
for each compartment in a boat that:
(4) Contains a fuel tank that vents into that compartment; or
Portable Fuel Tanks"

posted 01-06-2010 11:01 PM ET (US)            

On my former boat, a 1987 Montauk, a prior owner has drilled a single hole into the rigging tunnel, aft of the pads, along the centerline to route a fuel line. This hole was finished with a off the shelf flaired drain tube.

This method is available in addition to blocking the tank to gain access the tunnel.

For a photo use the zoom controls (top right corner) above this photo to see it up close:

posted 01-07-2010 12:15 AM ET (US)            

Rats. I've got a Pate that I need to replace pretty quick.

posted 01-08-2010 02:46 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for you help and I will reply with my findings.

posted 01-11-2010 10:46 PM ET (US)            

I don't see why it would be necessary to move the hose hole.
Yes, it's about an inch bigger fore and aft than the Pate,
but you just put the front of the tank an inch further forward,
and the back of the tank is in the same place as the back of
the Pate.

Also those dimensions would make it a 31.80 gallon tank,
ignoring stuff like wall thickness, and the various notches,
and that you can't fill it quite all the way. Ah, just
noticed that Jeff pictures show a label that say wall thickness
is 0.2 in. That would make it a 29.75 gallon tank. Anybody
filled one yet?

posted 02-23-2010 04:14 PM ET (US)            

Thank you,

posted 05-09-2010 06:49 AM ET (US)            

Erik

posted 06-08-2010 12:15 AM ET (US)            

The Moeller cap sits higher above the top of the filler neck
than the Pate cap, but not a problem.

The Moeller MAY sit on the same mats as the Pate. Time will
tell. I need to get a new seat cushion before I install the
Moeller.

I'm going to need to relocate the attachment points for the
bungies. Oh well.

posted 06-13-2010 10:34 AM ET (US)            

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o295/TheMaryAlice/whalerpics/moeller. jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o295/TheMaryAlice/whalerpics/ taukingheadsaft.jpg

posted 08-16-2010 08:07 PM ET (US)            

- Pump the existing gas into a couple of jerry cans.
- Remove the old tank.
- Slide new tank into place. It fit on the existing mats.
It's about an inch narrower, but that's not a problem. The
filler is a couple of inches farther after and it will be
easier to fill.
- Steal the elbow off the old tank and install.
- Strap down with the old bungies.
- Fill from jerry cans.

Done.

Way way easier than the new steering cable I installed too.

posted 08-22-2010 12:10 PM ET (US)            

There is a link to the MOELLER website in the article in the REFERENCE section about ON-DECK FUEL TANKS. Here is the article link:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/onDeckFuelTank.html

and here I repeat the link to the MOELLER website page with information about their on-deck fuel tanks which was mentioned in the reference article:

http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/fuel_storage_tanks/ topside_tanks/

Finally, here is a link to GOOGLE for a search for vendors of MOELLER fuel tanks that gives over three-thousand results.

http://www.google.com/products?q=moeller+fuel+tanks&hl=en&aq=f

posted 08-26-2010 10:23 AM ET (US)            

I'll try again this weekend.

posted 08-26-2010 01:18 PM ET (US)            

Chuck

posted 08-28-2010 01:18 AM ET (US)            

The trick to swiveling the fuel line is to loosen the big
flat nut under it. They you can move the elbow with a big
wrench.

posted 09-12-2010 11:01 AM ET (US)            

http://www.garlic.com/~triblet/pictures/CT_2010-09-12-074559.jpg
http://www.garlic.com/~triblet/pictures/CT_2010-09-12-074621.jpg

Note how I routed the hose across the top of the tank, down
the side, aft, then up through the primer bulb, then back
down. This way the primer bulb is always correctly
oriented. I'll get a better picture of this when I have the
seat out to install a new Hall's Nautical cushion that's
sitting in the garage,

Also note how the filler is completely after of the seat.
The Pate filler was under the seat and a pain to fill.

It's got a gauge, but I still like Pate's window.

posted 09-19-2010 11:16 PM ET (US)            

1. The gauge in the cap got gas in it when it got bumpy. This
should not be a surprise -- the gauge is open to the tank
below it.

2. It leaked at the cap. Dunno if this is related to #1.
The gasket looks good.

posted 04-13-2011 11:00 PM ET (US)            

That depends on what connector is on your fuel hose. Me, I
like the Nissan ones.

Can you just pull the fitting off your old tank?

posted 05-03-2011 10:26 PM ET (US)         

I just picked up this tank for my 2004 170 Montauk. I've got an existing 3/8" fuel line for my original Quicksilver tanks. My question is about the connection between the fuel line and PL3 fuel pick-up on the new Moeller tank. I purchased a hose barb that I think should fit in the pick-up and fit my fuel line. When I went to screw in the hose barb I noticed the pick-up has a orange plastic plug in it. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to pop that out, or just cut a hole in the back of it and force the barb to screw in? The plastic plug has no threads in it, but it's stuck in there pretty good.

Here is a shot of the pick-up - http://tinyurl.com/3s5zdtq - You can see where I tried to screw in the hose barb to the plastic once already.

posted 05-03-2011 10:45 PM ET (US)         

Anyone have a link on best practices for doing this sort of installation? I'm wondering if I need to coat the hose barb threads with anything before I install it?

posted 05-03-2011 11:09 PM ET (US)            

Yesterday I bought a fuel line connector made by Moeller. It was a die-cast Mercury fitting with a brass barb threaded not it. White Teflon thread tape was used at the factory to seal the barb to the fitting.

posted 05-29-2011 10:04 PM ET (US)            

Having read all the threads about having to move the fuel line, I was a bit worried. The tank installed in a jiffy. Removing all the old hardware and what was left of the tray was easy. The old screw holes filled nicely with Bondo type body-filler. An inexpensive neoprene kitchen mat from Home Depot fit the exact foot print of the tank and only needed to be notched at the fuel line portal in the floor. I used the Moeller brackets to secure the tank in place. With the off-set filler cap it fits perfectly under the seat, leaving enough room for the fuel line without any modification and I was able to bolt the seat down properly. Very neat, very easy, very professional.

The brackets are aluminum, the screws #12-1 1/2 inch Stainless. In saltwater this [combination of dissimilar metals] is a battery and will corrode. I used nylon washers to separate them and prevent the battery effect. Anyone have a comment?

Also, the aluminum brackets themselves have rather sharp edges, even after slight sanding with emery. Are there any concerns about friction wearing into the tank itself with the vibration of running? I am considering placing sections cut from report binder cover to edge the bracket against the tank.

This job was much easier than I feared. It should give confidence to anyone contemplating a change. Also, I found the best price at $221 but I don't know if it is proper to cite where I purchased it. I have sent photos to the Moderator to post with this. [Added in-line images to this article--jimh]

Fair winds and following seas.

posted 05-30-2011 10:57 PM ET (US)            

I am disapponted with the tank at this point.

Your comment regarding a solution to the leaking problem are welcomed.

posted 05-31-2011 11:48 PM ET (US)            

Two things I did not like about this tank:

--there were quite a few shavings of plastic inside the tank from the final machining of it. It took me a while to remove all of them because of the complex shape of the tank; and

--the fuel cap stands very tall above the top of the tank. This makes it a very tight fit under the seat platform of the early Katama and Minot models. The tank itself clears by inches but that damn cap snags.

Part of the reason it is tall is because they made the fuel gauge integral with the cap. Still, it would have been nice if they could have shaved 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch off of its height.

posted 06-12-2011 07:42 PM ET (US)            

I remember correctly, the original gauge was off a bit -but that didn't matter much since I just want an approximation. I keep a full 3 gal. spare tank with a line and bulb for use in the event the bulb goes bad or someone else runs out of fuel while using the big tank.

posted 06-21-2011 04:32 PM ET (US)            

Dummy me. I should have tried that. Thanks for the suggestion.

posted 08-18-2011 07:41 PM ET (US)         

I have to say this tank is beautifully made. I have it sitting on a DriDek type of pad, about 1/4" thick, and there is about 1" of room between the top of the tank and the bottom of the seat, exactly enough space to build a pair of custom aluminum brackets to hold the tank from the top instead of drilling holes in the floor to mount hold-down clips.

posted 08-29-2011 02:34 PM ET (US)            

I recently bought a tank from West Marine and after the first few uses realized that it was leaking pretty badly. I sent an email to Pam Bryant at Moeller's customer service. She got back to me and said that they have had problems with the treads on some tanks, and that she will be shipping a new tank post-haste. She even told me not to worry about sending in old tank.

posted 09-02-2011 10:39 PM ET (US)            

Currently, my only option is to run the tank with less than 18 gallons of fuel –not really a solution. I have a Moeller Topside Fuel Tank (12-Gallon) on my 13 Whaler that has been problem free.

Today I emailed Mrs. Bryant at Moeller about the continuing problem with my tank. She has been very helpful regarding my past inquiries and I have no doubt that she will quickly resolve this problem. I will update the forum regarding her response.

posted 09-10-2011 09:46 PM ET (US)            

No. They told me to destroy the old tank -but to keep the fittings in case I had a use for them later.

I'm very pleased with their customer service.

posted 09-12-2011 07:51 PM ET (US)            

The new tank has a different cap and gauge, and the threads on the filler cap are different.

Make that "fill tube."

posted 09-16-2011 12:19 AM ET (US)         

I live in Australia. My brother bought the Moeller on my advice or recommendation as a replacement for the original Pate.

I have used the boat about three times since the tank was new. I deliberatley replaced the original Pate, which had no leaks I could see. Out of those times, first the tank was about 60-percent filled. I noticed a small bleed and leak as noted in my earlier post here. I wasn't too concerned about it, although it's not good.

Then, the last two times, when I filled the tank to about 80-percent, I have noticed what I call a bad leak. I took the cap off, put it on again. I could not stop it. I feel the threads are too fine on the tank, I have had many tanks on other boats in the past, crappy plastic ones which swell up but do not leak like this one, and one excellent stainless one.

It seems to me on the tank I have the thread is far finer than tanks I have had on other boats.

Basically I want one which WORKS, i.e. doesnt leave a several-inch-wide stain down the tank! I dont care who makes it. I want it to work.

I really do dislike complaining and complainers, unless they are genuine, I paid for a new tank which I have a leak and can't seem to stop it. I just want a tank that works, without leaking, under the RPS, as a genuine replcement for the Pate.

posted 05-05-2012 04:17 AM ET (US)            

http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moellermarine/images/marine_tank/ 031626_24_gal_bostonwhaler_216.jpg

Note the name of the graphic image:

posted 08-13-2012 01:13 AM ET (US)            

[Changed topic and began to discuss the restoration of this boat. This is a great topic, but please start a new thread for it. Thank you--jimh]

posted 07-17-2014 07:52 PM ET (US)            

I have found them on E-Bay , Amazon, and Northern. It looks like the cheapest one is Northern: $219.99 plus $20.99 for shipping. It is on back order right now.

The part number for Northern is 031526 for a red tank.

I assume the part number 031626 is the white tank.

Is my assumption correct? Is there any difference between the two other than the color?

posted 07-19-2014 03:10 PM ET (US)            

http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/fuel_storage_tanks/ topside_tanks_noul/

posted 07-31-2014 02:58 PM ET (US)            

quote:

---

New EPA evaporative emissions standards in place for 2012 require all topside tanks being installed in boats built after 2011 to comply with the new low permeation guidelines.

We've added our new "roto mold" barrier technology to the Low Perm certified topside tank options to meet these new requirements. This new low perm technology is being used today by the marine industry's leading boat builders for their 2012 models and complies fully with the new EPA evaporative emissions requirements.

Our new Low Perm certified tank options include Moeller's new EPA compliant self-venting fuel cap (Moeller No. 305994-10) and a new fuel sender with visual site gauge. Add our optional electric capsule (part No. 035760-10) to the sight gauge and you can direct connect to a fuel gauge on your dash.

---

The inference I make from this is that the phrase "barrier material" most likely refers to the same feature called "new 'roto mold' barrier technology" in the above. Since this feature is associated with "Low Perm", which I also infer means low permeability, I think my earlier conjecture is probably affirmed. The phrases "barrier material" or "new 'roto mold' barrier technology" refer to some change in the manner of making the molded plastic on-deck fuel tank in order to make it compliant with the EPA evaporative emission requirements which came into effect c.2012.

Note that the white tank was first introduced in c.2009, which is before the evaporative emission requirements of c.2012.