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Author Topic:   MONTAUK 17, E-TEC 90

Quogue posted 09-11-2014 12:20 PM ET (US)
Hi. I currently am running a 15 SST propeller [on an E-TEC 90-HP outboard engine that is mounted on a jack plate on a 1989 Boston Whaler MONTAUK 17] and only getting 4,800-RPM at full throttle. I called Evinrude and they recommended I go to a 13-3/4 x 13 to get the recommended 5,000 to 5,500-RPM. Are any other Montauk 17 boats with E-TEC 90-HP engine are running [a 13-3/4 x 13] [propeller]?
I bought the engine used with eight hours on it. It ran only at 4,400 with my Stiletto 17 that came off my 1989 90 Evinrude.
A dealer thought [the engine mounting height] may have had too much lower end in the water. So I put a jack plate on [the transom] to get [the engine mounting] higher, I believe the old engine was a 15-inch shaft and the new one is a 20-inch shaft, and so that kind of made sense. The dealer swapped [the old propeller] for an OMC stainless steel 15. I thought [the E-TEC] was getting 5,000-RPM, but [the E-TEC is] only getting 4,800-ROM at full throttle with two people (about 400-lbs), 18-gallons of fuel, two batteries, and very little gear. I have noticed occasionally at full throttle [the engine speed] will drop some RPM on its own. The engine is in the water the whole time. Any feedback is appreciated. I will call the dealer and see if he has a 13-3/4 x 13 I can test. Thanks.
jimh posted 09-11-2014 02:38 PM ET (US)
The optimum full throttle range for the E-TEC 90-HP is 5,000 to 5,200-RPM, according to some data I have collected at
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ETEC_EngineRPM.html
From your narrative I understand you have a 15-pitch propeller on tbe engine now, and it gives a full-throttle engine speed of 4,800-RPM. I also understand that in a prior test with a 17-pitch propeller the engine speed at full throttle was 4,400-RPM.
On the basis of that information, is appears that an engine speed at full throttle of 5,200-RPM ought to be had with a propeller of about 13-pitch. Thus the recommendation you received from someone via telephone conversation with Evinrude that you use a propeller with a pitch of 13-3/4-inch sounds about right to me.
Quogue posted 09-11-2014 04:49 PM ET (US)
Thanks for your feedback. The dealer is going to order me one for next week, I will update the results.
Peter posted 09-11-2014 05:31 PM ET (US)
The E-TEC 90 should have no difficulty turning a 15 inch SST to the proper RPM so something is not right with the setup.
The Montauk requires a motor with a 20 inch shaft length. What shaft length is the E-TEC? What is the model number (see the mounting bracket for model number)? If it is longer than the previous motor, then your E-TEC has a 25 inch shaft length because the prior motor had a 20 inch shaft. 25 inch shaft length is much too long for a Montauk and I'm not sure if that could be properly compensated through the use of a jackplate. Try posting a link to a picture or several so we can see the setup.
jimh posted 09-11-2014 11:15 PM ET (US)
I hope you have an arrangement with the retailer of the propeller to test and return the propeller if it isn't right. Propeller selection isn't an exact science, and it may take some trial an error.
If you give the exact model number of the E-TEC engine, it should be easy to deduce the shaft length, as it is coded into the model number.
Quogue posted 09-12-2014 08:09 AM ET (US)
The model number of the 2012 ETEC 90 is E90DSLINS. The boat is not here so currently I cannot take pictures but may be able to this weekend.
The jack plate has allowed me to lift the engine off the transom a few inches ( I will measure ) guess is 3". Underway when I look over the transom the cavitation plate is just barely visible I believe this is where it should be based on my old set up.
I have an engine history report but I don't see a way to attach it. It shows 25 hours approximately half the hours from my 17 Montauk and half from the original owners boat. Only 0.4-percent of running was at 5001 - 5500 rpm and only 1.1-percent at 4501 - 5000 rpm. Should be much higher.
Current Engine Faults - no active faults found
Occurred Engine Faults: code 11 times 6 Throttle position sensor out of idle range.
code 21 times 6 Winterization activated
code 58 times 1 Engine operation temperature not reached (port or single).
note: This report was from last summer but there have been no changes in set up.
Quogue posted 09-12-2014 09:25 AM ET (US)
I noticed this post where a a Stilleto 17 was used with good results. I can only wonder why my set up with the Stilleto 17 only gave me 4400 rpm. The jack plate was not on yet but still quite a difference. Having to go to a 13-pitch prop seams strange to me.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/002465.html
crabby posted 09-12-2014 10:58 AM ET (US)
Your motor has a 20 inch shaft according to the model number.
I have a 2004 90hp ETEC on my Montauk (mounted without a bracket) swinging a 15 inch pitch Stiletto prop. It will spin up to 5400 rpms when conditions are good (clean bottom, cool weather). The motor is mounted through the second hole from the bottom (it can only go one more hole higher).
I have used a 19 inch pitch SST prop but the motor would not get past 5000 rpms and was too much pitch for more than a very light load. A 17 inch pitch SST lets the motor hit optimum rpms at WOT. The 15 inch pitch Stiletto lets me trim the motor out further than either SST prop allowed and seems to hold better in turns when trimmed out.
Are you sure your tach is accurate?
Quogue posted 09-12-2014 08:19 PM ET (US)
Good point on the tack, I am not sure if it is accurate although it did get to 5300+ with my old engine. The reading from the engine report should be accurate as the information is collected by the computer but as it was from last season I think it was with the 17 stiletto and not the 15 pitch OMC now on it. I guess it would make sense to run the report again to test the accuracy of the tachometer. The dealer is 65 miles from where the boat is so I guess I would have to pay to have another dealer to generate a report. As I understand it there is no way to do it yourself? Thanks for stating what I should of thought of myself. Checking the tack for accuracy with a new report makes sense before doing another prop swap.
Don SSDD posted 09-13-2014 06:55 AM ET (US)
What speed are you reaching at WOT- that should tell you if your tach is wrong? 4400 vs say 5300 would show a large variation in top speed.
Don
jimh posted 09-13-2014 12:20 PM ET (US)
Engine history reports can be obtained from an E-TEC engine though use of the Evinrude Diagnostic software. Many owners have purchased the software and use it for getting reports.
Phil T posted 09-14-2014 10:59 AM ET (US)
Crabby and Peter are dead on.
Work the problem first things first.
You need to verify the tach is working correctly.and the WOT RPM speed is in fact too low.
You change motors, did you change the tach? Brand, model and year of tach. Is it set to the right setting?
crabby posted 09-14-2014 09:39 PM ET (US)
With the ETEC you need either a system check gauge or a system check tach. If you don't have the system check gauge it might be a good idea to replace your tach with a system check model.
crabby posted 09-14-2014 09:44 PM ET (US)
As Jim points out you can pick up an adapter and the software and use a laptop computer yourself. Jimh (owner of this website) handbuilds and markets a serial adapter (but does not supply software); there is a guy on ebay who sells a cable that plugs into a USB port and he includes the software for a reasonable price.
Quogue posted 09-28-2014 08:25 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all the great advise, I will look into getting the software so i can run my own reports. I have not been able to get on the Whaler to continue to troubleshoot, it may have to wait until next summer hopefully not.
I am not sure of the tach brand but assume it to be the origional 1989 set up. The only addition the dealer did on set up is a unit that has some lights on it, I assume to tell you low oil etc. Will update when I get to the bottom of this.
Quogue posted 09-28-2014 08:25 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all the great advise, I will look into getting the software so i can run my own reports. I have not been able to get on the Whaler to continue to troubleshoot, it may have to wait until next summer hopefully not.
I am not sure of the tach brand but assume it to be the origional 1989 set up. The only addition the dealer did on set up is a unit that has some lights on it, I assume to tell you low oil etc. Will update when I get to the bottom of this.
jimh posted 09-28-2014 01:30 PM ET (US)
The Evinrude tachometer with the warning lamps is called an Evinrude System Check tachometer. The operation of the warning lamps should be explained in the E-TEC owner's operating guide. You should have received a printed copy of the E-TEC owner's operating guide with the E-TEC outboard engine. You can also get an electronic version of the guide from Evinrude's website at
http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com
jimh posted 09-28-2014 02:24 PM ET (US)
There is also a System Check gauge. It contains just the four warning lamps. This may be the instrument you described in your narrative.
Quogue posted 09-29-2014 10:10 AM ET (US)
Thanks Jim,
since it does not have a new tachometer I must have the System Check Gauge. I did get a small manual with the engine which I used to learn how to winterize the engine last year very easy.
The Revenge posted 10-01-2014 11:09 AM ET (US)
I have a 13" viper prop on my 90 ETEC. Boat is a 1970 16' hull. Should t be much different than your hull
Wot is 5300rpm and 39.5 mph.
ratherwhalering posted 10-02-2014 12:24 PM ET (US)
I ran into this same problem when I installed my 2004 E-TEC 90 on my 1987 Montauk-17. You can fart around with computer print outs and speed trials, but I know how this story ends.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/002465.html
It's your tachometer. Look on the back of it & the dial should be set on #6 for that engine. I believe your mechanic used the existing binnacle and pre-1996 OMC wiring harness and gauges, used an adapter at the engine, then ran a small System Check wiring harness to a System Check gauge at the helm. This is the easiest and least expensive way to repower with a new E-TEC.
ratherwhalering posted 10-02-2014 12:33 PM ET (US)
The solution is to replace the old tachometer with a 3" BRP Tachometer with integrated systems check. Your current Systems Check wiring harness should support the tachometer function.

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Author	Topic: MONTAUK 17, E-TEC 90
Quogue	posted 09-11-2014 12:20 PM ET (US) Hi. I currently am running a 15 SST propeller [on an E-TEC 90-HP outboard engine that is mounted on a jack plate on a 1989 Boston Whaler MONTAUK 17] and only getting 4,800-RPM at full throttle. I called Evinrude and they recommended I go to a 13-3/4 x 13 to get the recommended 5,000 to 5,500-RPM. Are any other Montauk 17 boats with E-TEC 90-HP engine are running [a 13-3/4 x 13] [propeller]? I bought the engine used with eight hours on it. It ran only at 4,400 with my Stiletto 17 that came off my 1989 90 Evinrude. A dealer thought [the engine mounting height] may have had too much lower end in the water. So I put a jack plate on [the transom] to get [the engine mounting] higher, I believe the old engine was a 15-inch shaft and the new one is a 20-inch shaft, and so that kind of made sense. The dealer swapped [the old propeller] for an OMC stainless steel 15. I thought [the E-TEC] was getting 5,000-RPM, but [the E-TEC is] only getting 4,800-ROM at full throttle with two people (about 400-lbs), 18-gallons of fuel, two batteries, and very little gear. I have noticed occasionally at full throttle [the engine speed] will drop some RPM on its own. The engine is in the water the whole time. Any feedback is appreciated. I will call the dealer and see if he has a 13-3/4 x 13 I can test. Thanks.
jimh	posted 09-11-2014 02:38 PM ET (US) The optimum full throttle range for the E-TEC 90-HP is 5,000 to 5,200-RPM, according to some data I have collected at http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ETEC_EngineRPM.html From your narrative I understand you have a 15-pitch propeller on tbe engine now, and it gives a full-throttle engine speed of 4,800-RPM. I also understand that in a prior test with a 17-pitch propeller the engine speed at full throttle was 4,400-RPM. On the basis of that information, is appears that an engine speed at full throttle of 5,200-RPM ought to be had with a propeller of about 13-pitch. Thus the recommendation you received from someone via telephone conversation with Evinrude that you use a propeller with a pitch of 13-3/4-inch sounds about right to me.
Quogue	posted 09-11-2014 04:49 PM ET (US) Thanks for your feedback. The dealer is going to order me one for next week, I will update the results.
Peter	posted 09-11-2014 05:31 PM ET (US) The E-TEC 90 should have no difficulty turning a 15 inch SST to the proper RPM so something is not right with the setup. The Montauk requires a motor with a 20 inch shaft length. What shaft length is the E-TEC? What is the model number (see the mounting bracket for model number)? If it is longer than the previous motor, then your E-TEC has a 25 inch shaft length because the prior motor had a 20 inch shaft. 25 inch shaft length is much too long for a Montauk and I'm not sure if that could be properly compensated through the use of a jackplate. Try posting a link to a picture or several so we can see the setup.
jimh	posted 09-11-2014 11:15 PM ET (US) I hope you have an arrangement with the retailer of the propeller to test and return the propeller if it isn't right. Propeller selection isn't an exact science, and it may take some trial an error. If you give the exact model number of the E-TEC engine, it should be easy to deduce the shaft length, as it is coded into the model number.
Quogue	posted 09-12-2014 08:09 AM ET (US) The model number of the 2012 ETEC 90 is E90DSLINS. The boat is not here so currently I cannot take pictures but may be able to this weekend. The jack plate has allowed me to lift the engine off the transom a few inches ( I will measure ) guess is 3". Underway when I look over the transom the cavitation plate is just barely visible I believe this is where it should be based on my old set up. I have an engine history report but I don't see a way to attach it. It shows 25 hours approximately half the hours from my 17 Montauk and half from the original owners boat. Only 0.4-percent of running was at 5001 - 5500 rpm and only 1.1-percent at 4501 - 5000 rpm. Should be much higher. Current Engine Faults - no active faults found Occurred Engine Faults: code 11 times 6 Throttle position sensor out of idle range. code 21 times 6 Winterization activated code 58 times 1 Engine operation temperature not reached (port or single). note: This report was from last summer but there have been no changes in set up.
Quogue	posted 09-12-2014 09:25 AM ET (US) I noticed this post where a a Stilleto 17 was used with good results. I can only wonder why my set up with the Stilleto 17 only gave me 4400 rpm. The jack plate was not on yet but still quite a difference. Having to go to a 13-pitch prop seams strange to me. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/002465.html
crabby	posted 09-12-2014 10:58 AM ET (US) Your motor has a 20 inch shaft according to the model number. I have a 2004 90hp ETEC on my Montauk (mounted without a bracket) swinging a 15 inch pitch Stiletto prop. It will spin up to 5400 rpms when conditions are good (clean bottom, cool weather). The motor is mounted through the second hole from the bottom (it can only go one more hole higher). I have used a 19 inch pitch SST prop but the motor would not get past 5000 rpms and was too much pitch for more than a very light load. A 17 inch pitch SST lets the motor hit optimum rpms at WOT. The 15 inch pitch Stiletto lets me trim the motor out further than either SST prop allowed and seems to hold better in turns when trimmed out. Are you sure your tach is accurate?
Quogue	posted 09-12-2014 08:19 PM ET (US) Good point on the tack, I am not sure if it is accurate although it did get to 5300+ with my old engine. The reading from the engine report should be accurate as the information is collected by the computer but as it was from last season I think it was with the 17 stiletto and not the 15 pitch OMC now on it. I guess it would make sense to run the report again to test the accuracy of the tachometer. The dealer is 65 miles from where the boat is so I guess I would have to pay to have another dealer to generate a report. As I understand it there is no way to do it yourself? Thanks for stating what I should of thought of myself. Checking the tack for accuracy with a new report makes sense before doing another prop swap.
Don SSDD	posted 09-13-2014 06:55 AM ET (US) What speed are you reaching at WOT- that should tell you if your tach is wrong? 4400 vs say 5300 would show a large variation in top speed. Don
jimh	posted 09-13-2014 12:20 PM ET (US) Engine history reports can be obtained from an E-TEC engine though use of the Evinrude Diagnostic software. Many owners have purchased the software and use it for getting reports.
Phil T	posted 09-14-2014 10:59 AM ET (US) Crabby and Peter are dead on. Work the problem first things first. You need to verify the tach is working correctly.and the WOT RPM speed is in fact too low. You change motors, did you change the tach? Brand, model and year of tach. Is it set to the right setting?
crabby	posted 09-14-2014 09:39 PM ET (US) With the ETEC you need either a system check gauge or a system check tach. If you don't have the system check gauge it might be a good idea to replace your tach with a system check model.
crabby	posted 09-14-2014 09:44 PM ET (US) As Jim points out you can pick up an adapter and the software and use a laptop computer yourself. Jimh (owner of this website) handbuilds and markets a serial adapter (but does not supply software); there is a guy on ebay who sells a cable that plugs into a USB port and he includes the software for a reasonable price.
Quogue	posted 09-28-2014 08:25 AM ET (US) Thanks for all the great advise, I will look into getting the software so i can run my own reports. I have not been able to get on the Whaler to continue to troubleshoot, it may have to wait until next summer hopefully not. I am not sure of the tach brand but assume it to be the origional 1989 set up. The only addition the dealer did on set up is a unit that has some lights on it, I assume to tell you low oil etc. Will update when I get to the bottom of this.
Quogue	posted 09-28-2014 08:25 AM ET (US) Thanks for all the great advise, I will look into getting the software so i can run my own reports. I have not been able to get on the Whaler to continue to troubleshoot, it may have to wait until next summer hopefully not. I am not sure of the tach brand but assume it to be the origional 1989 set up. The only addition the dealer did on set up is a unit that has some lights on it, I assume to tell you low oil etc. Will update when I get to the bottom of this.
jimh	posted 09-28-2014 01:30 PM ET (US) The Evinrude tachometer with the warning lamps is called an Evinrude System Check tachometer. The operation of the warning lamps should be explained in the E-TEC owner's operating guide. You should have received a printed copy of the E-TEC owner's operating guide with the E-TEC outboard engine. You can also get an electronic version of the guide from Evinrude's website at http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com
jimh	posted 09-28-2014 02:24 PM ET (US) There is also a System Check gauge. It contains just the four warning lamps. This may be the instrument you described in your narrative.
Quogue	posted 09-29-2014 10:10 AM ET (US) Thanks Jim, since it does not have a new tachometer I must have the System Check Gauge. I did get a small manual with the engine which I used to learn how to winterize the engine last year very easy.
The Revenge	posted 10-01-2014 11:09 AM ET (US) I have a 13" viper prop on my 90 ETEC. Boat is a 1970 16' hull. Should t be much different than your hull Wot is 5300rpm and 39.5 mph.
ratherwhalering	posted 10-02-2014 12:24 PM ET (US) I ran into this same problem when I installed my 2004 E-TEC 90 on my 1987 Montauk-17. You can fart around with computer print outs and speed trials, but I know how this story ends. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/002465.html It's your tachometer. Look on the back of it & the dial should be set on #6 for that engine. I believe your mechanic used the existing binnacle and pre-1996 OMC wiring harness and gauges, used an adapter at the engine, then ran a small System Check wiring harness to a System Check gauge at the helm. This is the easiest and least expensive way to repower with a new E-TEC.
ratherwhalering	posted 10-02-2014 12:33 PM ET (US) The solution is to replace the old tachometer with a 3" BRP Tachometer with integrated systems check. Your current Systems Check wiring harness should support the tachometer function.