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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
Servicing console switches in 170 Montauk
|Author||Topic: Servicing console switches in 170 Montauk|
posted 05-16-2007 08:52 AM ET (US)
I am having intermitent problems with the bow lights on my 170 Montauk, they sometimes light up and sometimes don't. Since the boat was new, I have made a habit of periodically taking apart the fixture, cleaning the contacts, and applying dielectric grease to contacts and the bulb. To rule out any possible corrosion, I have tested the fixture with a multimeter and get no voltage at all irregardless of the light switch position. I suspect the problem may be in the three-position console light switch itself, perhaps it has corroded.
My question is, are these console switches serviceable at all? Meaning, can the (internal) electrical contact portions of the switches be accessed to clean them and spray contact cleaning and lubricant? Are the switches a press fit in their respective holes in the console? What is the proper way to remove them without damaging?
posted 05-16-2007 09:29 AM ET (US)
Ah, the old Newtauk bow light problem. It's common. I had it. I had the dealer "fix" it under warranty. Guess what, it came back as soon as I had the boat in the yard. I read many a post here on the wave and tried all the said solutions with no luck. It sounds like you have done all the thinks I tried with little or no effect as well.
posted 05-16-2007 09:39 AM ET (US)
Here is the link to my post about the same issue.
What's funny is I see you were the hero at the time for the perceived fix. I even wondered after I got mine to work with the sealant if I had an entirely different problem then the rest of the people that claimed putting a piece of rubber under the lamp housing was the solution. That is the reason I never posted my solution on that thread since everyone was happy with your solution (I figured I was a one off and didn't want to confuse the issue further). Are you now saying that your solution was not a 100% fix and the issue is back?
posted 05-16-2007 09:48 AM ET (US)
Have you tested the voltage at the switch? Sorry to rant about the sealant. You are obviously asking about a voltage issue. When my dealer "fixed" the issue they told be it was a short at the lamp housing. Again, they did not solve my issue and I was able to resove it by using sealant at the lamp housing. My assumption is an intermittent short is caused by moisture at the bow. Since you say the lamp sometimes works and sometimes doesn't I'm leaning toward an intermittent short at the lamp housing.
posted 05-16-2007 05:37 PM ET (US)
Thanks for your input. Voltage + continuity + a good bulb equals a light which lights up when the switch is thrown so I'm fairly confident the problem is at the switch. There is no voltage getting up there to the light fixture. I just hate the prospect of paying big bucks for a puny little switch when hopefully, it can be cleaned and lubricated. My fingers are crossed.
posted 05-16-2007 06:28 PM ET (US)
Keep us posted. I know your boat is a little older than mine so perhpas this is something I should be expecting as well in a few years.
It's hard to believe a 22-26 thousand dollar boat can't get the bow lamp to work on a consistant basis.
posted 05-16-2007 06:30 PM ET (US)
In my case it was the excessive moisture that took the "continuity" out of the equation.
posted 05-16-2007 11:20 PM ET (US)
It's easy enough to hot wire around the switch. If you can't
puzzle out the circuit, you shouldn't be messing around back
there. If your switch is like the one 170 Montauk I've
dealt with, the wires attach to the switch with 1/4" QD
connections. Make yourself up a 2" piece of wire with mail
QDs on each end, and hot wire the bow light to it. See if
you still have problems.
These switches aren't terribly expensive (West has an
posted 05-16-2007 11:22 PM ET (US)
One more thing, I'd suspect the QD connections
before the switch. There's a good reason they
are called quick DISconnnect rather than quick
CONNECT. They like to come undone. All in all,
posted 05-17-2007 08:45 AM ET (US)
Chuck, thanks for the insight. That's a good idea to bypass the switch to eliminate it as a trouble source. The light switch is 3-position (off/nav/bow) and no longer wants to stay in the upper position (nav) without me keeping it there with finger pressure, that's one reason I suspect its bad.
posted 05-22-2007 06:39 PM ET (US)
Anyone have a crow I can eat? My bow light stopped working...again! I recall Chuck's post about the QD connections. Sure enough, one was loose, and not very at that. I pushed it in fully and the bow light is back in action.
posted 05-22-2007 09:20 PM ET (US)
bigjohn: do the lights come on if you hold the switch in
Anyway, that fact that you have to hold it in position makes
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