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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
Wiring Overhaul Nauset
|Author||Topic: Wiring Overhaul Nauset|
posted 04-15-2009 01:30 AM ET (US)
I'm new to the site and have been enjoying the wealth of useful information necessary to restore my 1967 Nauset.
I'm looking for a wiring diagram to rewire my entire boat but have not found anything. Does anyone know where i can find one? Thanks...Mike
posted 04-15-2009 08:04 AM ET (US)
There are many wiring schematic diagrams for specific portions of the electrical system of a small boat contained in the Reference section. These diagrams are included in articles with explanatory text, discussion of techniques, and recommendations for components and techniques.
For primary battery distribution wiring, see:
Dual Battery Wiring
For wiring of navigation lighting circuits, see:
For wiring of sump pump and float switches see:
For wiring of outboard motor starting circuits see:
For information on the proper insulation colors to use for particular circuits, see:
For wiring of trailer light circuits and interconnection to a vehicle lighting circuit, see
For a general overview of a instrument panel renovation and update using conventional analogue gauges, see:
Conventional Gauge Rigging
For wiring associated with engine trim gauges, particular OMC and BRP outboard motors, see:
E-TEC Rigging; Trim Gauge
For wiring specific to a particular electrical distribution panel, see the instructions provided by the manufacturer of that specific electrical distribution panel.
|L H G||
posted 04-15-2009 12:18 PM ET (US)
Re-wiring a mahogany console Nauset/Sakonnet is very similar to what I did on my 1971 Ribside Teak console. The boats are very similar in that regard, and both have a stern mounted battery. I have a full set of simple drawings, one sheet for each item of electrical work.
Basically, it's very simple:
1. At the stern sidewall of the boat, whichever side has the stern light, battery placement and hole in boat to access the bow light, mount a 4 gang terminal block, as BW did originally. One gang will become the neg, one pos for bow light, one pos for stern light, one pos for bilge pump (if you use one).
2. use 10GA (or larger if needed) Ancor cable to bring power from the battery into the upper console inside, using boat's tunnel. On an Outrage, a 30amp circuit breaker would be at the stern, under the gunwale, near the batt, but in this open boat configuration, I would put the main circuit breaker or fuse, in the console, before connecting to a Blue Seas 6 gang fuse block. The neg of the power cable can be run through the neg on the terminal block if desired, and that is what I do. Or a separate neg wire can be run from the batt to the block.
3. Now you have protected power in the console, at the Blue Seas fuse block, which should be located on port side of inside console, near where the switches are. From there you can run positive fused power for each need, nav light switch, compass light if separate from nav/running, consle courtesey lights, bilge pump, sonar/gps, etc. If the six circuits get used up, I don't use the block's fuse for radio, since all of them come with their own in line fuse.
4. From the switches, you will need to run a three wire 16ga cable back to the stern terminal block, to power bow light, stern light and bilge pump. Three-wire trailer wire will work quite well also for less money.
5. One last, optional idea that I HIGHLY recommend, is to use a multiple gang terminal block (size as needed) as a console top disconnect. I place this, horizontally, on the lower front of the upper console, dead center, where the wires come up out of the console base. To remove the upper console, for whatever reason such as refinishing, etc, the wires can simply be unscrewed from the lower side of the terminal block, leaving all upper wiring intact and bundled, since it is much harder to access.
Good luck with you project.
|L H G||
posted 04-15-2009 12:21 PM ET (US)
Forgot to mention, that for a single battery situation like a Nauset, and considering modern power needs, I would STRONGLY recommend the purchase of a DUAL PURPOSE starting/deep cycle battery. Well worth the extra 10 or 15 dollar cost.
posted 04-16-2009 12:24 AM ET (US)
Thank you Jim and LHG for your responses! I checked out all the links Jim and looks like everything i need is there. LHG I appreciate the multiple gang tip....that sounds like a big headache saver.
As for the deep cycle battery; at present i have two different batteries I was going to use in a dual setup but I'm not sure after reading a little whether running "both" is ever really an advantage. Perhaps I can use A for starting and B for accessories one day and then vice versa the next time? Man alive I'm itching to get into this but still waiting on the console kit to arrive.
By the way, those two bow light wires that come out of a small hole in the back corner are stiff and crumbly, and i'll be lucky to have enough to splice on to. What do you think...pull off the black strip and wire it into the 3 piece? If so, where exactly do I drill holes to bring the wire back into the boat? Or should I just work the wire in another way?
Thanks again for the help...Mike
posted 04-16-2009 12:41 AM ET (US)
See the FAQ for the answer to this question:
Q4: How Do I Repair the Wiring for the Combined Sidelights at the Bow?
posted 04-16-2009 01:01 AM ET (US)
Thanks Jim. I had seen that but still not sure about where to drill at the stern...if I can't use the 3rd wire. Any ideas?
|L H G||
posted 04-16-2009 10:52 AM ET (US)
I would still use a single combo battery, and not bother with two batteries in a small boat like a Nauset.
On a Nauset smirkless 16' hull, if the original hull wires are bad, as happened on my own Nauset, re-wiring the bow light depends on the rubrail being used. In both situations, you still use the original hole in the inside of the hull. If you have the original white one-piece, you drill the hole down at an angle, and have to tape the new wires up under the lip of the hull, using white tape. It won't show. The better solution, is to upgrade to the newer Barbour 2 piece rubrail design, white receiver and black insert. Then you drill into the rail receiver, and run the wires under the insert. You also have to do some drilling up at the bow light, but this solution works very well, and is how the newer boats were done.
posted 04-17-2009 12:51 AM ET (US)
So I need to drill a hole as far back on the rub rail as possible, from the outside, through the receiver all the way through to the inside? If so...how do i properly seal both holes around the wires?
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