posted 09-09-2007 03:08 PM ET (US)        

I think this is what [is] left of the stern light, but I am not sure. I want to begin installing new lights and wiring, but I need to know if this is for the stern light. If so, how do I wire this thing? Do the [P]erko lights fit into this thing? I am really confused when I go to the store and look at the stern lights. They seem to fit into some recepticle or something.

posted 09-09-2007 07:04 PM ET (US)            

Here is my thread (different user name back then) when I had a frozen pole in my light brackets. It lists the Perko part # you are looking for.

The photo links are dead since Yahoo shut down it's photo site.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/006349.html

There should be a box on the rear port quarter for connecting the bow and stern lights. From this box, wires run to the battery.

Hope this helps

posted 09-09-2007 07:32 PM ET (US)            

http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/1987Montauk

FWIW, I replaced the Perko pole seen in these photos with a whaler replacement pole (different Perko pole) that is stainless steel, taller and not aluminum. Much better quality and less prone to break. Can order via dealer for approx. $125. I used Twin Cities Marine who are great.

posted 09-09-2007 08:44 PM ET (US)            

Note that Whaler NEVER used an aluminum light pole. Whaler had Perko make custom stern lights for them using chrome plated brass tubing up until around 1983 and then when the lights need to be taller, they used stainless steel tubing.

The diameter of the pole is 3/4" so any light with a pole of that diameter will work, but the aluminum ones tend to corrode rapidly.

posted 09-09-2007 09:36 PM ET (US)            

I can confirm that a 1987 pole is Stainless. Aluminum in this application is no-good.

You can make a pole out of 3/4 SS tube sold to make handrails from any boat store. The top of the factory one is bent so that the light fixture at the top is parallel to the water.

posted 09-10-2007 08:08 PM ET (US)         

I tried to put them back as these photos show and the holes in the brackets don't line up. They are different distances on center and can't be reversed. The holes appear to be original.

Did Whaler ever install them in this fashion?

Thanks for any input.

posted 09-10-2007 08:10 PM ET (US)         

Sorry about that:-)

posted 09-10-2007 08:34 PM ET (US)            

The "threaded part" you have "left" is all one piece of the upper bracket

Here is a photo of what the brackets look like.

http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/1987Montauk/ photo#5108735523299201714
Photo came from whalercentral.com. My apologies for posting without permission

At this time I must ask if you have unscrewed both the upper and lower bracket and removed them (with the pole frozen) from the boat. If not, do this now!!!!!

Just to test how stuck the pole is, try putting the assembly between your knees and try twisting the top bracket off. Grab the top assembly close to the threaded part and not down near the base (where it screws into the boat) and twist.

Flip the piece and try twisting off the bottom.

If stuck, cut the pole with a hacksaw about 1/2 inch below the top bracket and 1/2 above the bottom bracket.

Take the hacksaw and cut a X on the TOP of the cut ends. Remember not to cut into the bracket.

Use vise grips or a pipe wrench and crush the pipe close to the bracket. Use a smal/medium width flathead screwdriver and hammer and drive the screwdriver between the bracket and the pole.

If it is fighting you, STOP. SOAK in PB Blaster or penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) overnight.

Questions?

posted 09-10-2007 08:46 PM ET (US)            

The part #'s for these are:

The one on the left is the Upper Support, Part #12007904
The one on the right is the Lower Support, Part #12007900

I would call Twin Cities, a whaler dealer and great for parts no matter where you live (listed above). If not available through them, they were made by CMI

In the reference section here, I found this:

CMI MARINE
55 Woodrock Rd. Weymouth, MA 02189
Telephone: 781-337-0733
Fax: 781-337-0734
Email: cmimarine@verizon.net

[Call them on telephone--much better than email.]
Talk with Fred Caldwell; he can supply excellent replacement railings for most all classic Boston Whaler boats.

Hope this helps.

posted 09-10-2007 09:43 PM ET (US)            

The knurled nut always goes on top, or at least that is how they did it at the factory.

posted 09-10-2007 09:48 PM ET (US)            

To remove remnants of an aluminum pole from the light mounting brackets, it is best to cut the tubing off close to both sides of the stand offs. If you can make one clean saw cut longitudinally through the short piece of tubing, this will release the pressure and the tubing will come out.

posted 09-11-2007 10:06 AM ET (US)         

Thank you for shedding some light on the positioning question.

I couldn't find any shots of the fixture on your great Whaler catalog CD.

I wonder why the holes in the upper position are spaced differently than those in the knurled knob/collet?

Thanks again,

posted 09-13-2007 09:15 PM ET (US)            

In looking at your photo, I am guessing the single hole, forward of the set of holes is the one that goes through to the rub rail. Did you seal the hole from the rubrail side? That is where it should go.

I recall the cover was right on top of that hole. While an OEM cover may be hard to find, any kind of a cover will do. At this point, join the two sets of wire at a bus bar. A single set of wires runs from there.

While I see your battery is in the stern, do you have an existing switch on the dash? Is there a bus bar (two parallel brass strips with screws) inside the console (original location was on the back of one of the instrument panels

IF yes, then -

run the wire through the tunnel and attach negative to the negative strip. Run the positive to the switch. You will also need to feed power to the switch by running a single wire from the positive terminal to the switch.

If not, what do you have?

CBO

posted 03-01-2008 06:04 PM ET (US)            

The positives go on one bar and negatives go to the other bar. A single positive and negative go to the switch/battery.

Here are a photo of the cover. http://picasaweb.google.com/CascoBayOutrage/1987Montauk/ photo#5108348774379098770

posted 03-01-2008 08:56 PM ET (US)            

After 20 minutes with the handy dandy search engine, I think I found THE thread.

It lists (read the whole thread) the original maker, source for replacement and two alternatives.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/006511.html

Man that brings back memories.

posted 03-01-2008 09:20 PM ET (US)            

To skip the terminal block/cover just run the two sets of positive wires to the switch and 2 negatives to the battery.

For routing, have the wires that come in from the rubrail go over and follow the wires from the pole. From the base of the pole, run them over to the sump cover etc. You can cover them with white wire loom for a clean look.

posted 03-02-2008 10:55 AM ET (US)            

I went with pigtailing wires together, and used some hardware store wires (copper single strand and stranded)mixed in with tinned strand (like I was supposed to). I had to get the job done quickly so I resorted to sub par quality wires.

I knew the mistake I was making, but I was pressed for time.

By the end of the fall I was getting an electrical short in my wiring, because the engine horn was sounding right off the start (checked sensors everything OK in engine). When I disconnected everything the horn went away. SO, I assume that my fancy wiring created a short. (Or water in the horn? Who the heck knows!) It obviously is an issue anyway, and it's (hopefully) related to the horn problem.

Now the job this spring will aim at fixing the wiring. (set aside bow hatch project...grr) This will first be to re-tap a hole thru the hull.

The questions?
-bus bar covers or appropiate styles for integrity of boat, saftey, and over all quality.
-If I use a bus bar where do my fuses for the lights and the ff/gps radio ect go? Under the dash?
-Are inline fuses better than a fuse block?

posted 03-02-2008 12:28 PM ET (US)            

IMO, skip the bus bar and cover. It is not necessary and only adds to the number of failure points. If the wires are not long enough, you can add a longer section of wire by using butt connectors like this: http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,14615.html They crimp and then you heat the plastic connector ends with a hair dryer and they shrink, sealing to the wires.

I am not clear on a few things. Is your battery still in the stern? Do you have switches on the console? Do you have an existing buss bar at your console or is it in the battery case?

A link to photos will help me help you.

CBO

posted 03-02-2008 10:35 PM ET (US)            

Battery is in stern.

Bow light wires (speaker wires) funnel behind rub-rail and out though the rear right corner of the stern (see above) through the top larger hole (filled in with marine tex in pic).

I was using a fuse block at this point to connect the stern light, bow light, and 3 pole switch from the dash. The fuse block was in a small plano box and stuffed into the battery box.

I couldn't figure out how to connect my gps to the fuse block so i directly connected it to the battery with an inline fuse, which failed on me a few times in the short few months i used it.

The corner where the battery was located had a small mess of wires which I hope to clean up with some help. It all ran perfectly, when it ran. So other than the improper techniques I used I don't think the connections were wrong, but there were many areas of possible failures.

posted 03-08-2008 12:30 PM ET (US)            

That particular system was used on the 17' and under Whalers, the Outrage 18 and up had a completely different system.

I'd definetly opt for a stainless or Chrome replacement pole next time around.

posted 03-10-2008 07:37 PM ET (US)            

If water came splashing over the stern and comes into contact with the block, will it short the circuit?

I noticed that while working on the busbar i routinly came into contact with both pole, and didn't recieve any shocks. Why?