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Author | Topic: E-Z-Loader Trailer: Crossmember Repair |
1985supersport15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() I have a 1985 E-Z-Loader trailer, and the rear crossmember that supports most of the weight of the boat has cracked in the center. The galvanized tube crossmember was rusted in the center likely due to saltwater use and age. I have called several marine repair shops and am having trouble determining the best way to repair. I am not sure if welding is the route to go or somehow getting a replacement cross member for a 30-year-old trailer. Any insight on the best approach for this would be appreciated. Thanks--AC |
outragesteve |
![]() ![]() ![]() E-Z-Loader has a great website, and you can find the cross members for purchase. With your trailer model number, on the tag on the inside of the front rail, you can easily look-up the parts you need. On my E-Z-Loader for my Outrage 22 the cross pieces simply bolt in. They do tend to rust, from the inside out, right at the middle of the bend. Good luck! |
jimh |
![]() ![]() ![]() I have an E-Z-Loader trailer that dates from 1992, and thus is 22-years-old. I found that E-Z-Loader still carries parts for it. I recommend you contact them via telephone. Their customer service and parts department should be able to determine if they have a replacement crossmember available. You can sometimes arrange for it to be shipped to a local E-Z-Loader dealer in his next delivery, which can reduce the shipping costs. Another alternative to consider is replacement of the trailer. If you have a 30-year-old trailer that has been used in saltwater, the trailer is probably near its end of life. The failed crossmember may be just the first of many problems to occur in the future. Trailer-boating is not very fun when the trailer gives you problems. |
GRAND NUSSIE |
![]() ![]() ![]() I have a 1986 painted E-Z Loader that I bought new that has never been in salt water and has spent most of it's life in my garage when not being used. To my surprise and horror what I thought was surface rust on the visible parts of the frame turned out to be areas that were completely rusted through on the inside and bottom of the side frame members. If you haven't already, I suggest you carefully inspect the entire frame and you may want to consider a different trailer as Jim suggested. Dick |
1985supersport15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() All great suggestions. Thanks. I contacted EZ Loader and the replacement cross member would be about $160 plus about $40 or so for shipping. I would probably need all new hardware also since the old will likely have to be cut off with a torch. So I am looking at about $200 plus hardware and labor to get the old one off. I am confident I can put the new cross member on but I am wondering for this price and effort if I am better off just getting a quick welding fix for now so I can get the boat mobile so I can winterize it and get it away for the season. Then I can research a replacement trailer in the off season. Has anyone had any cross member weld repairs done? Also, could anyone give me a ballpark of what a decent replacement trailer would cost for a supersport 15' 3" boston whaler? If I were to get a new trailer I would like to get away from rollers and move to a bunk or combo bunk and keel roller trailer that gives better support to the hull. I read the trailer section on the website and it had some valuable info. It sounded like finding combo keel roller and bunk trailers was becoming increasingly difficult. Any tips on trailers that have worked well for others and ballpark prices would be great. Thanks, AC |
blacksmithdog |
![]() ![]() ![]() I was a welder for a living for many years. There are two issues with regard to welding repair on your trailer: 1) It's galvanized. Only a welding repair shop with a respirator would (should) weld that. 2) Do you really think there's enough good, non rusted steel on either side of the cross member to weld to? I spent about $1300 on a brand new WesCo trailer for my 15' GLS two years ago, and that was with a tire and wheel size upgrade. |
Plotman |
![]() ![]() ![]() If the reason that the cross member has failed is because it has rusted and been weakened to the point that it has cracked, I would think it likely that there is not enough good metal to weld to. But to answer your question of fix vs replace, only you can asses the condition of the rest of the trailer. If it is rusty and rotten all over, junk it. If the rest seems sound, and the only problem is this crossmember, then $200 is a cost effective fix. |
Whalrman |
![]() ![]() ![]() Take a paint stir stick and place it on the galv. tubes and hit the stick with a hammer. If you hear chunks rattling around, well time to ponder a new trailer. |
saumon |
![]() ![]() ![]() Did you usually dunk the trailer all the way in saltwater? If so, the remaining parts are more than likely as rusted from the inside as that rear crossmember and the only reason why that part let go first was because it support more weight. |
andygere |
![]() ![]() ![]() I'd buy the crossmember, get your trailer functional and go from there. Even if you decide to buy a new trailer, if you don't fix the old one, you will have to scrap it. Fixed, you can sell it and put the proceeds towards the new one. You may be amazed at what you can get for your used trailer, I certainly was. I fixed up my old EZ loader, and ultimately traded it in on a new aluminum model. I recouped my restoration investment several fold. [url]http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/022111.html[/url} |
andygere |
![]() ![]() ![]() http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/022111.html |
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