posted 02-12-2015 01:10 PM ET (US)        

I plan on mounting a dual thrust prop on the F8 for trolling and would like to hear from anyone else that has used this option. Is it worth the upgrade and is it enough power in the wind? I like the T9.9 high thrust but don"t like putting the extra weight that far out on a bracket permanently. Maybe I shouldn't worry about this and go with the T9.9.

I wish Whaler designed this transom like the old classics as it would make mounting a kicker much easier. Are people with these models of Outrages drilling through the transom to mount a brackets tapping into the transom only? Through-bolting under the stern seats seems like an option.

I look forward to your replies. Thanks for your time.

posted 02-12-2015 03:01 PM ET (US)            

I have the same boat in a 1999. You can see some pics including what I have done for a bracket and kicker.

Here is the short answer when I went through this process.

No, its not a double notched transom for twins which would make this a lot easier, you would just hang a kicker along side the main. However the single notched transom of your 19 Outrage has quarter seats and storage which would not exist on a wider transom so there is some give and take.

The back/transom of your Outrage has Whaler Board buried under the fiberglass for this purpose higher on both port and starboard. If you have the port boarding ladder, look underneath and you will see the factory threaded bolts holding it on and they do not go through into the rear quarter seat. Consider the weight that takes. It can handle a kicker if tapped and threaded properly.

The reason not to through into the quarter seats is that its just a skin of glass , foam underneath it. It won't hold a heavy 4 stroke kicker motor on that along. Don't drill all the way through

You must drill and thread the starboard side area for a bracket. I called Chuck Bennett at Whaler and he said use the same diameter of bolt to do this as is used on the rear boarding ladder step. It makes sense, look at the weight that must take for heavy people to host themselves out of the water.

The rear starboard side can take it. Just tap it well and match things up. I use a Gilick on a slide out mounted bracket so I can slide off the motor bracket and motor completely for water sports. Again , see my pics in my profile.

The only caution I would add is get the lightest kicker you can. The 19 outrage is trim sensitive especially with a full tank of gas and tends to be stern heavy and bow light. A heavy kicker will add to this condition.

The Yamaha T-8 and T9.9 are both great. When you start adding electric start, electric tilt, it starts to add up. I would just stay as light as you can with your choices.

posted 02-12-2015 04:04 PM ET (US)            

How far up the transom does the Whaler board go?
How far did you drill into your transom for tapping purposes?
How do I get into your profile to look at your pictures?

Had no luck contacting Sailboss for there bracket, so I am going with a bracket made by "Bite Me Too" here in B.C. A bit heavy at close to 20lbs but supposedly very stoutly made. My thoughts are to purchase the F8 Yamaha @ 83lbs (manual start and trim) with an upgraded prop option...bit of a gamble knowing how well the Yamaha "T" model kickers preform. Still not sure if trying to save 10-15lbs and $600-$700 is worth it.

Hoping the 150 V6 Merc. Offshore is enough to push this boat..

Agreed - onlyawhaler

posted 02-12-2015 10:07 PM ET (US)            

You can check my pics on my profile listed above. There are two small boxes on each post. One is email contact and the other is info that you choose to display. Once you click on that, you will see info and click on my webpage which is just photobucket. That's where they are.

The Whalerboard is generously distributed left and right. It goes almost to the rubrail and all the way down. I am assuming you have the boarding platform as mine does. Look where its attached and also the stainless handrail that goes up almost to the rubrail. That shows how high it goes.

I tapped 6 bolts to hold my trolling motor bracket on. Its worked great. I live inland and at altitude and drive so long distances to launch so I remove the kicker while trailering to eliminate stress to that area.

I tapped and used 1 1/2 inch bolts. I also used a semi locktite sealant on the bolt threads while threading them .

Good luck , let us know how it turns out

posted 02-12-2015 10:14 PM ET (US)            

Check planning time, cruising rpms, top speed, everything.

Remember you are buying an engine and an era where there are no guarantees on engine hours at all except the honestly of the previous owner. If there are multiple owners,,,,,,,,good luck. I find it amazing how many older boats and engines just happen to have 250-350 hours. Seems like a standard answer.

Get a compression test on the cylinders, check gear lube. To replace that engine if its not good will put you in a difficult position.

That boat is rated for 225 hp max. That's what I have on mine and I wish I could get away with adding more, but can't.

I also boat at 4-5000 high where we lose horsepower due to altitude. It appears you are at sea level so perhaps a 150 will be fine. Test it out to be sure

posted 02-13-2015 12:38 AM ET (US)            

The boat I am buying has the same seating arrangement as yours. No T-top and not set up to fish yet. That will change when I take possession. I am buying the boat from a dealer in a different province so a test drive will not be possible. Risky I know but I have a good feeling about the boat. Have never heard of Whaler Board before so I will research it more. I see you have trim tabs on your boat. I am hoping I can get away without them as I have found them problematic in the past. Your boat looks good and the more I see of this vintage (19'-20') 96-99 Outrage the more I think they are the optimum trailerable fishing package. Here is to hoping anyhow as I will find out some facts soon.

Thanks again for all your help and I will let you know how it all works out. I will be keeping my eyes open for a late 90's 2 stroke Yamaha 200 hp saltwater series outboard. I think that engine would be a good match for this hull.

Forever have a Whaler, tight lines.

posted 02-13-2015 07:33 AM ET (US)            

Montauk 170 Kicker
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/001956.html

A great REFERENCE article about adding an auxiliary engine to the transom of a Boston Whaler with only a narrow notched transom:

170 MONTAUK: Auxiliary Motor Installation Directly To Transom
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/170Auxiliary.html

Also see

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/002030.html

And for the Yamaha T8, read this article for advice:

Mounting a Yamaha T8 Four-Stroke Kicker
On a 1992 OUTRAGE 22 with Evinrude 225-HP Main Engine
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/yamahaT8Kicker.html

I think your best solution would be to sell the old Mercury and buy a modern engine. A modern engine will troll all day and sip fuel. My E-TEC 225-HP idles my boat at trolling speeds and it takes five hours to burn a gallon of gasoline. You'll enjoy the newer motor, and you won't have spent a lot of money on the bracket and a Yamaha F8.

posted 02-13-2015 12:46 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for the links Jim. All good information. Glad I found the site.

Anyone know the weight of the Merc 150 v6 Offshore model?
Would also like the weight of a 1995-2000 Yamaha 200 SWS?

Thanks all,

posted 02-13-2015 01:34 PM ET (US)            

Probably not much difference between your motor and this and it seems to do well at sea level.

Here is the link if you would like to watch this seatrial.

Good luck

Sterling

posted 02-13-2015 02:29 PM ET (US)            

Could not open the seatrail link. Appreciate all your good information.

onlyawhaler, keep your hooks sharp...