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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
self bailing montauk?
|Author||Topic: self bailing montauk?|
posted 07-04-2003 04:49 PM ET (US)
sorry if this has been covered, but i couldn't find it.
is there any way to install scuppers on a classic 16/17 hull and have the boat become self-bailing? i live in protected waterway without any covered mooring and would be interested in this modification.
i have a 1970 hull (model unidentifyable secondary to previous owner's modifications). i know the deck is below the waterline, but could scuppers be installed somehow that might actually work? i know the boat might collect a little rainwater, but i can watch that. previously i pulled the plug and didn't worry about it, but i'm refinishing the hull and hate to have marine growth inside the boat 2-3" up the transom and covering the back 1/3 of the boat.
anyhelp would be appreciated.
posted 07-04-2003 09:37 PM ET (US)
Forget about the scuppers..... As you mentioned, the floor is below the waterline... Suppers would not do you any good.....
Here is one idea if you leave your boat in the water for any length of time....
posted 07-05-2003 11:18 PM ET (US)
I did just what Joe recommended to you on my Montauk last season.
I installed an automatic bilge pump (Rule), it spins every 2.5 min. to check for water in the bilge.
I connected said bilge pump to my house battery (deep cycle) mounted in the console next to the starting battery. I have a battery selector switch, but I jest keep it on Batt. #1 (Starting Batt).
To keep both Batteries charged I installed a battery combiner from West Marine. The Combiner closes and completes a circuit between the POS terminals of the two batteries when it senses charging voltage (the engine is running), I think around ~13.5 volts. It opens again after the engine is off and any float voltage dissipates. Since I use my boat a least once a week (usually at least twice) this set up works fine. Actually you could go quite a bit longer depending on how much pumping it has to do and the size of your deep cycle.
I also use the house battery (deep cycle) to run my Fish finder, VHF, AM/FM etc. This way I can be certain I always have enough CCA's to turn the engine over.
posted 07-06-2003 08:23 AM ET (US)
thanks for the ideas. i had intended on using a bilge pump. i guess i'm just afraid that if the boat were unattended for a few weeks the pump could completely drain the battery.
i thought about putting a ball-valve thing over the outside of the bilge drain. it wouldn't keep rainwater out, but if the boat filled with water it might allow flow both ways through the drain before the boat could swamp.
thanks for the ideas about the battery in-console and switch set-up. i need to get my west marine catalog out and start ordering.
posted 07-06-2003 09:39 AM ET (US)
These threads discuss the Montauk and its self-bailing (or lack of).
posted 07-06-2003 09:50 AM ET (US)
Have you considered a good mooring cover?
24-7 exposure to the elements [UV in particular] is very hard on your boats wood, upholstery, guages, well you get the idea.
I guess it really comes down to the question of do you think it worth the expense and trouble of a cover to protect your Whaler?
My 2 cents.. :)
posted 07-06-2003 07:42 PM ET (US)
Now that I've finally put up davits, I don't have to worry about this anymore. I've left my Nauset floating in the canal for close to a month with the Rule automatic pump (500gph) coming on every 2.5 minutes checking to see what the Florida skies dumped that day. The battery was a bit drained but still started the motor.
posted 07-07-2003 07:00 PM ET (US)
Previous replies were right -on:
1. Cover the boat
posted 07-08-2003 10:01 AM ET (US)
I have a similar situation with my '70 nauset and a prior 13' classic. have kept both on a mooring in a cove.
The 13 was kept covered w/ a full mooring cover but I also kept a rule 500GPH with seperate Rule enclosed float switch in rear well. Never had a problem with excessive battery drain. It could be left up to a month and the 40 Yammi started right up..
Currently, my nauset carries a 750 GPH Rule with integral float, hardwired and fused to the battery, I also wired a on/off switch at the consol to manually operate the pump but not override the auto function so it can't be accidently turned off. I keep the pump sitting in the sump area at the stern end of the tunnel, not screwed /anchored down. It's oblong design fits very well in the sump and doesn't move around. Since it isn't screwed down I don't worry about water infiltration into the hull around screw holes and it can easilly be lifted out for cleaning when needed. I use a single starting battery on the boat and a consol cover to protect the wood. With out a full mooring cover I can get a good amount of water from rainfall but the 750GPH pump adeqately handles what mother nature throws our way.
I personnally do not care for the 2 1/2 min auto pumps they use too much energy for my application where the boat can sit for a couple of weeks without recharging, also I assume they burn out more quickly as they are always cycling on (576 times per day) even for the brief period of time while checking for water accumulation.
posted 07-08-2003 12:18 PM ET (US)
thanks for all the replies. as the boat is really old and decrepit and my redo is functional, not cosmetic, i'm not too worried about uv exposure. i think in the end i'm going to install a attwood sahara 1100 gph bilge pump b/c it fits perfectly in the sump. wired to my trolling motor battery with a switch for charging while underway. i'm also looking at a ball-valve "seascupper" to install on my drain tube so if the bilge pump fails the boat should fill only to the "plug-out" level and not swamp entirely. thanks again for the replies.
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