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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Advice on 19 Outrage I/O conversion
|Author||Topic: Advice on 19 Outrage I/O conversion|
posted 04-01-2006 01:22 PM ET (US)
Finally warming up here and plan on filling the outdrive hole and have purchased a 6 in. manual setback bracket to mount a 90 hp Nissan (20 inch shaft) I already have. Got under the tarp to measure things up and found out the transom is actually 25 inches.
I assumed wrongly that it has the same transom height as the 21 ribbed side that I have. Sure doesn't look like the motor will be able to clear and fully tilt. I have no experience with brackets but have thought of a couple options:
1. bracket with more setback (12 in ?)
I've also noticed a newer bracket on E-Bay that seems to pivot the motor up.
I've got some pics posted pn photobucket at http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a236/Jinfun/ but don't know how to post them here.
Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
posted 04-02-2006 02:43 PM ET (US)
posted 04-03-2006 04:14 PM ET (US)
Thanks Jay. Now if I could only get some advice :)
I know the boat is very rough (like the previous bottom paint job), but would like to get her in the water again one day.
posted 04-03-2006 04:33 PM ET (US)
On SeaDrive equipped Outrages, the transom was built up from the notched transom at the factory. Perhaps the same is true of your I/O. If that's the case, it would follow that you could cut it down to its original height, and finish the top of it with fiberglass and gelcoat as was done at the factory.
Also, check the archives for a project done by Ratherwhalering, where a SeaDrive Outrage 18 was converted to outboard power using a jack plate. They determined that full tilt of the motor was not required, and they selected a jackplate that allowed just enough tilt to get the boat on a trailer.
I'd go with option 1 above, and remove all that space eating cabinetry that used to protect the engine. Find a similar vintage Outrage 19 with a notched transom, and take careful measurements. I suspect that you will find a seam at just that location where the existing transom was built up. Make sure you do a good job repairing the outdrive hole, or have a pro do it. Note the thickness of the fiberglass laminate on the transom, and be sure to use at least the same thickness for your repair area, inside and out. Also, make sure that your laminations extend well past the patch area to give a large bonding surface. If you look at Cetacea page 18, you'll see that the OEM transom appears to follow the the line of the gunwale cap. This is pretty close to the area you are going to repair, so make the repair strong. I'd be concerned that the jackplate or engine mounting bolts will be within the repair area, so proceed with caution.
|19 low pro||
posted 04-03-2006 11:31 PM ET (US)
Just take the center part of the cap off over the transom , and dont cut the transom down . a short shaft will work fine. if you have any questions give me a call my cell # 713 898 8744 Rick
posted 04-04-2006 01:01 AM ET (US)
Yep, we installed a 1991 OMC 150 hp outboard and 12-inch slidemaster jackplate on an Outrage-18, full transom. We ended up getting full tilt, and a top speed of about 48-49 MPH.
combine this thread:
and this one:
for a detailed account.
posted 04-04-2006 10:24 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the great input guys. It looks like my 6" jackplate has to go and I should be getting a 12" manual. Anyone need a good used 6" CMC jackplate ? The haudraulic ones sure are tempting but pricey. Unless I sell the 21' ribbed Outrage, I've been given a strict budget from the other half.
I had a quick peek at the transom before going to work today and it looks like there are actually 3 layers of 3/4" ply in there. I also placed my jackplate up against the hole and it looks like I'll be lucky to catch the original transom with even the top 2 bolts of the jackplate. Looks like the lower bolts wil be in the repaired area.
I have quite a bit of West epoxy and glass left over from repairing the under side of the bow platform on the 21' Outrage (don't ever want to do that again !!!). Not very experienced at fiberglass repairs but have read their repair manual and watched the video. Would it be a good idea (after repairing the hole) to reinforce the whole area with an additional piece of 3/16 or 1/4" thick aluminum plate on the inside ? That hole sure seems to get bigger everytime I look at it :)
It's still too cold to attempt the repair right now but they've just opened 2 new West Marine stores in the Toronto area and it gave me an excuse to get a gallon of the Peel Away stripper to have at that all over bottom paint job. I will keep everyone posted when I start to repair the transom.
Another idea I had was to convert that large space where the inboard engine was located into a livewell. Crazy idea ?
posted 04-04-2006 10:28 PM ET (US)
Forgot to also mention that I will definitely be taking off the center and side caps over the tranwsom to free up some fishing space.
posted 04-08-2006 11:07 PM ET (US)
Ok I've checked out some of the larger jack plates available and there seem to be some good deals on 10" (CMC)but not 12" jack plates. Do you guys think the extra 2" is critical ?
"RatherWhalering", the links on your thread don't seem to work anymore. Would love to get some pics if you don't mind. email@example.com
posted 04-09-2006 09:47 PM ET (US)
On Rob's project, he needed the setback in order to get some tilt on the motor. The top of the closed transom on the Outrage 18 is much higher than on your boat. I think that once you remove the cap, you could actually bolt the motor directly to the transom if you wanted to. I'd remove the cap before buying another jack plate. The one you have will probably work just fine.
If the lower mounting holes are going through the repair area, you might consider having a wider mounting surface welded on to your jack plate such that the lower holes penetrate the transom outside of the repair area.
posted 04-10-2006 05:32 PM ET (US)
You might be on to something Andy. The tarp's coming off this week (finally warming up), so I'll try and remove the cap this week before I jump the gun on a larger bracket.
It sure looks like it will be close.
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