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1989 Outrage 18 - Trailer Optimization
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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
1989 Outrage 18 - Trailer Optimization
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| Author | Topic: 1989 Outrage 18 - Trailer Optimization |
| irishcreamer |
posted 07-15-2010 06:16 PM ET (US)  
Hi Everyone, It is time to properly fit my trailer to my OR18. I think when I bought the boat (used) they slapped it on the nearest trailer and sold it off the lot. After reading the Reference section on Trailers and numerous CW posts, I have decided to install double Stoltz keel rollers to bear the weight of the boat and side bunks to stabilize the boat. Please assist me with the configuration. My Current Trailer Configuration Front (only) Keel Roller - Stoltz RP12 Outside Bunks Inside Bunks
Example of CW Member's Trailer for OR22 I think double 12" Stoltz Rollers (RP12) will do the trick and am trying to figure out how to mount them. I spoke with a salesman at Eastern Marine ( http://www.easternmarine.com/shop/ ) and he recommend against the greased SS shafts and in favor of non-greased galvanized shafts. Is this okay? Also, what brackets should I use and now best to attach to my Aluminum I-beam cross members of Height 4", Width 3"? I am also thinking about changing out the Outside Bunks so something more compliant. Currently they only contact the hull in the stern - would be better to have more surface contact I think for stability. Advise welcome. Thanks, |
| irishcreamer |
posted 07-15-2010 07:05 PM ET (US)
Looking around I don't see any brackets built to hold two rollers. So my only choice is to mount to single roller brackets? Then the question is through bolting with straight bolts or can I use U-bolts? Looks like the through bolts would hold the position better and be adjustable better than U-bolts. As for the roller pins there are three choices: |
| L H G |
posted 07-15-2010 07:06 PM ET (US)
I would mount each set of rollers with four bolts, two drilled through the neutral axis (centerline) of the cross member and two bolts resting over the top of the crossmember. Like this: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2019/?action=view& current=Scan0026.jpg This makes it impossible for the rollers to drop down. Be sure to use SS bolts, and an SS roller shaft with SS cotter pins. The information you got on galvanized shafts is bad. They will quickly weld to the inside of the roller, which is plain steel! For additional reference, here are two of my trailers: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2019/?action=view& current=Scan0027.jpg (19 Outrage) http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v429/lgoltz/Outrage%2021/?action=view& current=Scan0042.jpg (21 Outrage) As you can see, with almost 100% of the boat weight on the rollers, you do not need much lateral support at all. |
| irishcreamer |
posted 07-15-2010 07:20 PM ET (US)
Hi Larry, Thank you! Any concern about mixing Galvanized, Aluminum, and Stainless parts in saltwater? I suppose my choices are limited. I wouldn't want Aluminum supports (too soft, unavailable) and the Stainless should be more durable (and less reactive?) than the Zinc plated. So are the standard keel roller brackets okay? They all seem to be the same - are there quality differences I should be aware of? Examples: |
| L H G |
posted 07-15-2010 08:36 PM ET (US)
I'd say they are all about the same. Just be sure you get hot dipped galvanized vs plated. Not much you can do about the dissimilar metal situation. |
| SpongeBob |
posted 07-16-2010 08:35 AM ET (US)
Your trailer looks perfectly acceptable. It is an all bunk setup and will support your hull fine. This is the same setup the trailer for our classic Outrage 22 has except that I do not have the center bunks (I have toyed with adding them). Our trailer has only the front roller with pvc V guide as yours. As far as use goes the boat loads in a snap. Simply drive up about 3/4 up the trailer and winch the rest of the way up. I can drive up to the bow stop if I wish but choose not to. The only thing I would do to your trailer would be to raise the outer bunks up one set of holes and move them outward till the outside of the bunks is inline with the chines. This helps the boat stay centered(my trailer is set up this way). If you wish to add keel rollers do, but the trailer will function fine without them (it was designed that way and is perfectly acceptable). All the new Whalers come with all bunk trailers, at least around here the do.
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| irishcreamer |
posted 07-16-2010 11:03 AM ET (US)
Hi SpongeBob, Thanks you for your comments. I currently crank the boat on the trailer and it does center fairly well. Also, I like the idea of moving the bunks outwards to fit just inside the chine but am grappling with how to treat the sump clam shell cover. How did deal with the protruding clam shell? Notched bunks? Overall, the trailer is okay but since I have to modify the winch stand already and I have the time, I would like to create the ideal trailer setup. The keel roller setup makes the most sense for me because: |
| SpongeBob |
posted 07-18-2010 04:41 PM ET (US)
My bunks are 3" thick and the clamshell misses by a couple of inches. If I were reckless in my loading it could hit the bunks. I will be replacing my bunks in the near future due to age. The new bunks will be cypress with a bevel to match the hull's deadrise. I plan to cover the top of the bunks with a "Starboard" like material that is 1" plus in thickness because I'm tired of replacing carpet. This Starboard" like layer will be notched/relieved to accommodate the clamshell. As far as support of the transom goes my bunks extend about a foot and a half past the transom and therefore fully support the rear of the boat (I run twin 120hp Evinrudes about 720lbs). This extension also makes a great boarding step when the boat is on the trailer. I'm even thinking of adding an aluminum stirrup truck step with the new bunks. I know there are those on this site swear by the keel roller trailers, and I have nothing against them. In fact if my boat trailer had come with keel rollers I certainly not remove them turn it into an all bunk trailer and visa-versa. But I believe the reason that Whaler originally recommended keel rollers is that when our "classic" boats were made there were few if any all bunk trailers being manufactured. "All roller" trailers were available at that time and I do believe keel roller trailers are superior to these. I would be willing to bet that had all bunk trailers been widely available at the time Whaler engineers would have blessed them as they seem to now. As far as saltwater goes, over it's 15 approaching 20 year lifespan the only thing to fail due to corrision on our trailer have been the springs, but I consider that the price of boating as do most people in my part of FL. I do realize that under certain circumstances a keel roller trailer may be advantagous but over the 10 years we have owned our Outrage I have never been unable to launch or retrieve easily. Jeff |
| irishcreamer |
posted 07-19-2010 01:46 PM ET (US)
For the moment this aspect of P*mp my Whaler is on hold. After a fair amount of research I found the necessary parts and want to share them with the CW community below. It was difficult to located stainless steel roller shafts. Rollers Roller Shafts Brackets I was also able to locate split brackets in stainless steel from Suncor Stainless Part S0279-0001 Hardware Thanks, |
| L H G |
posted 07-19-2010 03:28 PM ET (US)
Get your SS roller shafts from Champion. Now you see why keel roller trailers are barely available anymore. Too expensive, both in high parts cost (including more cross members) and labor to set up to fit the boat. With boat trailers today, it's the cheapest are what the Dealers carry. |
| irishcreamer |
posted 07-19-2010 04:52 PM ET (US)
I thought so too but Champion no longer carries SS shafts, despite what their website shows. Going to focus my resources (financial) on more pressing projects and return to this project as funds allow. Looking around my local marinas I see that nearly all whaler trailers are bunk trailers and I do not hear stories of rampant hull failures and delaminations so the bunks can't be THAT bad, right?? IC |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 07-19-2010 04:58 PM ET (US)
Make your own SS roller shafts. I just bought a length of 316L stainless steel rod and cut it to the lengths I needed, drilled the ends for cotter pins and away I went. |
| SpongeBob |
posted 07-19-2010 05:06 PM ET (US)
sturdybuilttrailers.com has stainless roller shafts in 9.5, 10.5, and 11.5 inches in length. Jeff |
| russellbailey |
posted 07-19-2010 09:14 PM ET (US)
irishcreamer, You mentioned below that Champion no longer sells stainless steel roller shafts. They must have just stopped, as I bought 11 from them in early June to replace the galvanized shafts under the 1984 Outrage 25 I bought in late May. Between the shafts and 7 new 12" Stoltz rollers (to replace the remaining original black rollers), it was not a small bill. After about 10 launches with the heavy Outrage 25, all on so-so ramps with a 2WD Ford Expedition, I appreciate the keel roller trailer despite its extra complexity and cost - my trailer is very similar to LHG's trailer under his 25, and setup nearly the same (the only real difference is I have single bolts on the brackets, which allows the hull to sit about 2" lower). In contrast, on our lightweight Striper 15 I've been completely pleased with 4 bunks and can launch it almost anywhere. In my mind keel rollers are not so much about protecting the hull, but instead are all about launching at more marginal ramps than you can do with the same boat and a bunk trailer. |
| hauptjm |
posted 07-22-2010 02:48 PM ET (US)
Champion stainless steel roller "pins" Scroll down page: http://www.championtrailers.com/ROLLERS.htm#zinc_pins |
| DeeVee |
posted 07-22-2010 11:55 PM ET (US)
Stainless steel roller shafts are definately the way to go. I added 12" Stoltz rollers on stainless shafts to my trailer when I bought the boat, almost 5 years ago. I use the boat exclusively in salt water. Last weekend, before loading the boat after a salmon fishing trip, I checked the rollers. All 10 rollers spun as smooth as butter. Adding keel rollers made the trailer a joy to use compared to what it was like before I added the rollers. It still is not my dream trailer (Jeff Rohlfing's father's trailer would be my dream trailer), but it will do nicely. Doug Vazquez |
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