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Author Topic:   Jackplates on 1992 Walkaround
mopee3 posted 07-05-2014 05:06 PM ET (US)   Profile for mopee3   Send Email to mopee3  
I have searched high and low for someone putting Jackplates on [a Boston Whaler WHALER 23 WALKAROUND WHALER DRIVE]. I haven't seen it done. Is it done? If not, why not? I am going to change height of twin 150 hp Johnson engines until I can re-power this fall or winter. Still want and need to fish this summer with this boat. Will be changing props to Mercury Mirage Plus, and need to get those 150's much higher on transom. Would like the ability to almost change on the go, without backing up to tree and garage. Hence the search for Jackplates on WA.

If not Jackplates then will raise to about 2 to 2-1/2 inches. Thanks

jimh posted 07-06-2014 09:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Generally boats that have long engine set back brackets like a Whaler Drive do not use another extension like a jack plate to further set back the engine. The WHALER 23 WALKAROUND WHALER DRIVE already has a rather long set back, so it seems particularly unsuited to adding more set back with a jack plate. Typically the engine mounting height range that is available with the standard BIA engine mount will provide enough range to position the engine to an appropriate height.

If you think the present engine mounting height is too low by 2-1/2-inch, you might consider first moving the engines to the new height before you buy new propellers. Optimizing performance is best done in small steps. If you move the engines 2-1/2-inches higher and change propellers, you can't really tell what influenced the results, the propeller change or the height change.

jimh posted 07-06-2014 09:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
By the way, the move from lowest mounting to highest mounting, 2-1/2-inch increase, seems a bit radical. There are two very knowledgeable guys that participate here, Jeff and John, who have the same boat and are running twin engines. I don't believe either of them has mounted their engines that high. John's boat has the engines one-hole up. I think Jeff's boat is rigged the same. I would reach out to Jeff and John for some advice on engine mounting height.
jimh posted 07-06-2014 09:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Also, the increments of engine mounting height are in steps of 0.75-inch. This makes the possible engine heights measured from lowest to be 0.75, 1.5, and 2.25-inch up. Some engines have a fifth hole in the BIA mounting, and can reach 3.0-inch up. I think your Johnson 150-HP twins will only have four holes, so 2.25-inch will be the maximum. It usually simpler to just speak in terms of how many holes-up. It sounds like you are planning to go from lowest to three-holes up in your initial move.
6992WHALER posted 07-06-2014 11:18 AM ET (US)     Profile for 6992WHALER  Send Email to 6992WHALER     
I have a 23 Walkaround with a whaler drive with twin 200 Yamaha's. Jim is correct my engines are mounted one hole up.

Jeff's 23 Walkaround with whaler drive has twin 150 Yamaha's, that are mounted two holes up.

Last year Jeff shot some video of his engines while his boat was on plane. I think two holes up might be the way to go.

The only concern I have with raising my engines is that in a following sea off the stern quarter I have occasionally broke a prop free of the water when the bow dropped of the wave. Raising the engines might increase the likely hood of this happening.

Moving the engine back on a jack plate would only make this concern worse. Also I would not want to move the engine weight any further back then it already is.

Hope that helps


mopee3 posted 07-06-2014 12:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Ok understand information about, 1st height, then props. Will go that way. I looked at pictures of Jeff's boat when he first bought it and it is mounted one hole from the bottom. Is that 2 holes up?

Lots to do on this boat, however the hull seems to be in excellent shape, as does the caulking of the Salt Shaker bracket. I had the hoses coming from bracket replaced, they were split wire loom type, now solid hoses. Will ask boat yard to raise height to where Jeff's Yamaha's were sitting and see how it goes.


mopee3 posted 07-06-2014 12:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Oh no jackplates, I thought adding them would allow me to change height without boatyard.


Jefecinco posted 07-06-2014 07:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
Changing engine mounting height does not require the services of a yard if your boat is on a trailer. It can be easily accomplished by two able bodied men (or women) using the trailer as a lever.

It has been described several time on this site. If you can't find the helpful threads I'll post the method for you.


Jeff posted 07-06-2014 09:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Jim and John are right, I would not had jackplates to the already extended set back of the bracket. Our 150 Yamaha's are mounted one hole up on our 1993 23 Walkaround Whaler Drive. I would not go higher unless you move to a proper propeller for those ventilated conditions.

Here is an image of the motors as they are mounted now. 1993%2023%20Boston%20Whaler%20Walkaround%20Whalerdrive/ 23walkaround_82013_selects-17_zps2699810a.jpg

here are a bunch of images of how the boat is set up over all... 1993%2023%20Boston%20Whaler%20Walkaround%20Whalerdrive?sort=2&page=1

In this thread you can videos I have shot of the motors while on plane from multiple different angles.

Butch, while the act of raising the motor is not a difficult challenge itself, on this model it is a pain due to having to cutout caulk joints and remove panels to access all of the mounting bolts of the motors. Here is an image of the swim platform. 1993%2023%20Boston%20Whaler%20Walkaround%20Whalerdrive/ 23walkaround_82013_selects-99_zps790592e0.jpg.html?sort=2&o=98

Just for reference, here is a thread on the disassembly and repair of the SaltShaker Marine bracket.

mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 01:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Thank you Jeff, Butch for the comments, pictures. I am not going to use the tree/garage method to change "hole" settings. But appreciate the comments and direction. I did check out, research the methods mentioned before talking about using a boat yard.

When people talk about the "one hole up" the term was confusing but I think I now understand. One hole seems to mean, one hole from the bottom, at least thats what it looks like on your boat Jeff.

Jeff, what props do you have, like I said I will be going with Tom's suggestion, just wondering.

By the way, that boat, and the way it is set up is amazing.

Another thing I wondered about was whether or not the top of the Salt Shaker bracket was in touch with the engine mounting bracket, or "hook part", it appears it does not.

I am a bit envious of you people, you "appear" to have access to many Whalers, while it's a not quite as easy for me, hence I am using y'all's knowledge to conifer what I need to know. I ask a lot of questions and use the " search" option on this site quite a bit. I am not whining about my lack just stating the way I see it.

I have what appears to me as a long way to go, props, engine height, flow meters, electronics, etc.



6992WHALER posted 07-07-2014 02:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for 6992WHALER  Send Email to 6992WHALER     
To clarify:

My engines are mounted in the second hole from the top.

I believe Jeff's are mounted in the third hole from the top.

Thus Jeff's engines are one hole higher out of the water then my engines are.


mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 02:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
So are you John?

Ah, that's what makes sense to me, the terminology is a little foreign to me. I am going to start with the second hole, what ever that is.



mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 02:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
After looking at Jeff's dad's repair job and Jeff's statement I am going to have to open the access panel on top of bracket, put a wrench on the nuts to loosen nuts on bottom of engine bracket. Wow.

Am I wrong?


Jeff posted 07-07-2014 04:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
That is correct. At a minimum, to access the mounting bolts you are going to need to cut the caulk joint around the close-out panel and remove that piece (see attached). 23%20Walkaround%20WhalerDrive/Fiberglass%20rerpairs/cutline_zps6c9f04e3. jpg

russellbailey posted 07-07-2014 04:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for russellbailey  Send Email to russellbailey     
mopee3, should you still be interested in jackplates, I have a pair I just pulled off my Outrage 25 that are in good condition. I replaced them with taller jackplates with a built-in extension due to the 25" engines on my 20" transom. I've not advertised them yet as I just swapped them a few weeks ago.

mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 08:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
I am torn between putting Jackplates on VS not, especially after looking at what it takes to change the height of the engines.

Jeff, John I am sure you have both experienced rough water, 3-6 foot waves inside 10-20 ft troughs, have your engines ever shown ANY cavitation?

If not and y'all vote against Jackplates then I am thinking about, no Jackplates and going to the highest setting I can get.

Russell, how much of a set back would they add, 3", 6", more?

Thanks y'all


mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 08:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     

How much?


mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 08:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Jeff thanks for the photos, I took some of this boat and will post them here when I figure out how.



jimh posted 07-07-2014 08:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Monty--you might give some consideration to the notion that the reason there are four sets of holes spaced at 0.75-inch intervals might be due to the concept that 0.75-inch is a reasonable amount of adjustment of engine height. If there were only two useful heights, all the way down or all the way up, they wouldn't machine all those holes in the middle spacings.
russellbailey posted 07-07-2014 09:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for russellbailey  Send Email to russellbailey     
I normally sell used parts in good condition for half of new. They are cook ml-65 jackplates with 5.5" offset, rated for up to a 300 hp v6.

Email me if you are interested in them. Includes mounting bolts.

mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 09:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Jim you are correct, they have that many holes because not all boats, engines are the same. My challenge is if I need to go up one,then two, and then three, it appears to be quite the challenge to open up the Salt bracket each time, hence the call for the Jackplates. Which has its own set of challenges.

This is why I am asking both John and Jeff about cavitation.

Then I have Russell going with a Ultra High set. I know this is not a Outrage but the more information I receive the better decision, with less guess work?

I really appreciate ALL who give me their input, it makes my decision less of a guess.


mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 09:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Jeff do I need to cut out the caulk at the pink line? There are no screws there.


Jeff posted 07-07-2014 09:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Mopee, Yes, you will just need to cut along the caulk line (orange) and pry that plate out.

Also, Russel is not recommending you go with the plates. He is just saying he has a set of them for sale. I think it would be irresponsible for Russell to recommend adding the jackplates on a boat like yours with a very large set back bracket. Russell's boat does not have a set back bracket and the reason he was running the jackplates was, the motor's he had on the transom of his 25 Outrage were the wrong shaft length for his hull and the jackplates were added to try and offset the incorrect shaft length.

I would again state, after running a 23 Walkaround Whaler Drive for 3 years in many different conditions I would not add jackplates to your boat.

Jeff posted 07-07-2014 10:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Also, I doubt you will be moving the engines more than one hole up. If you make this change and really want to test it, you could run the boat with that plate just duct taped in place to make it as temporarily water tight as possible. If and when things are ok, you can then seal it up.

PS, If you want to email me the photos of your boat I can put them up and host them for you. My email is: jrohlfing at gmail . com

mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 10:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Ok Jeff that is what I am looking for, I will open up the plate before I sent it to the boat yard. I still wonder if I should go all the way up or only up two holes.

John, did your boat come with the inspection plate just in front of the engines or did you add it? I am wondering if I can add that kind of plate so it's easier to get to the bolts.


mopee3 posted 07-07-2014 10:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Jeff I will send them tomorrow, I am using my wife's iPad without email abilities.

Thanks, tape will work.


Jeff posted 07-07-2014 10:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Well crap. John knows our boat better than me. It's currently 4 hours away right now so I can not just go out and look at it.

The motors on our 23 Walkaround Whaler Drive are mounted two holes up.

That means there are top empty holes above the top mounting bolt. See the image attached. Screen%20Shot%202014-07-07%20at%2010.42.04%20PM.png

russellbailey posted 07-07-2014 11:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for russellbailey  Send Email to russellbailey     
I concur with Jeff - I am not making any recommendation about your setup. You have a completely different hull type than mine.
tedious posted 07-08-2014 12:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for tedious  Send Email to tedious     
mopee, unless I missed it, one thing you have not mentioned is WHY you feel you need to raise the motors, and have the ability to change on the go. Can you clarify? That might affect the recommendations people make.


6992WHALER posted 07-08-2014 02:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for 6992WHALER  Send Email to 6992WHALER     
My boat came with the inspection plate.
Jeff posted 07-08-2014 04:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Monty's current motor mounting

Monty, with your current set-up I would recommend you move the motors up two holes. This will match how ours it mounted.

Also, to answer an earlier question. We are turning Yamaha Stainless Props at what I believe are a 19" pitch. They are not the best and the boat does slide off plane at moderate RPM's. After this year I think we are going to move to 4 bladed Turbo props which will help the hull stay on plane at lower speeds.

mopee3 posted 07-08-2014 04:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
OK I will raise engines two holes and see where the gas consumption goes.

No Jack-plates.

I pulled all plugs and they are pretty dirty and will replace before next test.

Am looking at purchasing new/used Mercury Miracle Plus props, will put on after testing new engine height.

Boat goes to yard for engine height change on 16th, will look for some kind of Flow meter before then.

This boat was used as a tender for a 42' yacht and not equipped to fish, will fix that.

Know a lot of the stuff above is off subject, sorry Jim, shoot me.

Will get back to this thread when I have more results.

Thanks to all


Jeff posted 07-08-2014 05:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jeff  Send Email to Jeff     
Monty, I would recommend looking into a set of props with 4 blades and not 3. I think your fuel efficiency would be improved as the hull will better stay on plane as slower cruising speeds.
Jefecinco posted 07-08-2014 07:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
I suggest you ask the yard that raises your engines use duct tape to temporarily secure the access plate for the engine mounting bolts. This will permit you to test the results of your change before permanently closing up the space. If you are not satisfied with the adjustment it will make it easier (cheaper) to make further changes until you are fully satisfied.

The problem with making gross changes is that the change may be more than wanted for the propellers you select. Minimal incremental changes may also require further adjustment but at least you'll know if the last change was better or worse and it's easy to go back.

I'm not sure I've expressed this well but in my head it makes sense.


mopee3 posted 07-08-2014 09:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for mopee3  Send Email to mopee3     
Thanks Butch,

I will do just what you say.


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